Throttle body removal

SueFR

Doncaster
Mar 16, 2015
237
19
Doncaster
Hey all,

searched fourm and checked you tube trying to find similar engine to know how easy it is t remove a throttle body to give it a clean? Got error code P0121
 

300bhpdaily

Active Member
May 26, 2020
1,246
568
It’s 4 torques bolts and a silicone pipe removal and it’s off on a 2.0tfsi engined mk2 nice and easy. Would recommend changing the gasket once off before refitting.
 

SueFR

Doncaster
Mar 16, 2015
237
19
Doncaster
It’s 4 torques bolts and a silicone pipe removal and it’s off on a 2.0tfsi engined mk2 nice and easy. Would recommend changing the gasket once off before refitting.
Got a 2.0 tdi mk2
Going to think it’s going to be about same? Does throttle sit to front of engine then?
 

R3k1355

Active Member
Oct 30, 2014
1,787
251
Yorkshire
Diesel doesn't have a throttle body, you've got the anti-shudder valve and on certain models the EGR valve bolted up to it.

Cleaning those might solve your code issue, it's not very hard to get em off.
 

SueFR

Doncaster
Mar 16, 2015
237
19
Doncaster
Diesel doesn't have a throttle body, you've got the anti-shudder valve and on certain models the EGR valve bolted up to it.

Cleaning those might solve your code issue, it's not very hard to get em off.
I am only going by the code my car has given as a fault which brings up a list of stuff throttle been one of them
 

steve7786

Active Member
Apr 27, 2013
78
8
It's not a quick job, but not difficult once you know what to do.

You'll need the VW 20 spline sockets and a a small socket set with hex bits. I have the CEGA engine. You'll need to disconnect the rubber intake hose going in to the inlet. It's stiff and takes some manipulation. Put a glove over the end or things might fall in.

Disconnect the EGR pipe, that's where your 20 point tools come in hand. Don't drop the metal gasket. I've reused mine without issue. I did change it for 1 with a 5mm hole in the middle years ago.

The anti shudder valve/EGR is held in with 3 allen head bolts. 1 you can't see well that goes all the way through the parts into the manifold at the bottom. 1 next to the EGR that I can only do with a hex bit and spanner that is small turns and reposition each time. The 3rd bolt is easy. Once off (wear gloves) I tend to scrape as much carbon off dry. Green scotch pads are ideal too. I've used Mr Muscle oven spray previously and it works well. An old toothbrush and small wire brush helps.

Then rinse, dry and spray with WD40/GT85 and wipe clean. I have had to replace the rubber gasket between the EGR and anti shudder valve. I had oil film over the thermostat so I knew it was gone. That was probably at my 3rd removal for cleaning though (I'm on 160k)


Hope that helps.
 

SueFR

Doncaster
Mar 16, 2015
237
19
Doncaster
It's not a quick job, but not difficult once you know what to do.

You'll need the VW 20 spline sockets and a a small socket set with hex bits. I have the CEGA engine. You'll need to disconnect the rubber intake hose going in to the inlet. It's stiff and takes some manipulation. Put a glove over the end or things might fall in.

Disconnect the EGR pipe, that's where your 20 point tools come in hand. Don't drop the metal gasket. I've reused mine without issue. I did change it for 1 with a 5mm hole in the middle years ago.

The anti shudder valve/EGR is held in with 3 allen head bolts. 1 you can't see well that goes all the way through the parts into the manifold at the bottom. 1 next to the EGR that I can only do with a hex bit and spanner that is small turns and reposition each time. The 3rd bolt is easy. Once off (wear gloves) I tend to scrape as much carbon off dry. Green scotch pads are ideal too. I've used Mr Muscle oven spray previously and it works well. An old toothbrush and small wire brush helps.

Then rinse, dry and spray with WD40/GT85 and wipe clean. I have had to replace the rubber gasket between the EGR and anti shudder valve. I had oil film over the thermostat so I knew it was gone. That was probably at my 3rd removal for cleaning though (I'm on 160k)


Hope that helps.
I want to say that all sounds fairly easy but I know something will go wrong. I can do many things but messing with engine bits isn’t quite one of them hahaha
 
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steve7786

Active Member
Apr 27, 2013
78
8
I want to say that all sounds fairly easy but I know something will go wrong. I can do many things but messing with engine bits isn’t quite one of them hahaha
I'd clear the code and then see if it comes back lol. There's not much that can go wrong. It's just awkward. Worst job I've done was change the thermostat. That's just a stupid design and location.
 

SueFR

Doncaster
Mar 16, 2015
237
19
Doncaster
I'd clear the code and then see if it comes back lol. There's not much that can go wrong. It's just awkward. Worst job I've done was change the thermostat. That's just a stupid design and location.
The annoying thing is, the engine man light came on, 3 days later went off on its own, a week later came back then I delete the code off then it came back two days later.
Iv noticed no difference in performance or any issues other than engine man light

i can imagine it’s all fiddly stuff
 

Rusty2k

Active Member
May 12, 2013
710
133
Access is significantly improved by removing the plastic intake pipe that runs down the front of the engine and under the air con compressor. This is easily done but requires access from below (i.e. lifting the car and removing the undertray.)

You can then take the throttle valve / ASV off separately to the EGR valve if required.
 

SueFR

Doncaster
Mar 16, 2015
237
19
Doncaster
Access is significantly improved by removing the plastic intake pipe that runs down the front of the engine and under the air con compressor. This is easily done but requires access from below (i.e. lifting the car and removing the undertray.)

You can then take the throttle valve / ASV off separately to the EGR valve if required.
Thanks. Lifting and accessing from below is not something I’ll be able to do on my own bjt thanks for advice
 
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