Traction control warning light

mottles

Guest
This weekend said light came on and stayed on. I turned off the engine and left it over night and all seemed well the next morning.

I've since discovered that the light still comes on but only after 10minutes with the engine running.

I've had a search on the forum and I check over my brake lights they seem to be ok (rear light is out though).

Just wondering if you have any ideas as the garage won't fit me in till Friday. Car seems ok to drive bar the fact the drivers aids are off and until the the light comes on the traction control all seems to work fine.

The car is a mk 4 04 cupra tdi thanks in advance!!
 

spud31

Rail Zip User
Jul 14, 2011
407
2
check the wheel speed sensor wires, does the speedo work ok?
i bet its one of the rear wheels not reading correctly
 

mottles

Guest
Cheers for the reply.. Seems to be reading speed ok.. Well no different to what it has before. Strange though I timed how long it takes to come on and it's a nigh on 10 minutes dead.
 

spud31

Rail Zip User
Jul 14, 2011
407
2
think the abs has so long to pick up wheel speed and after that flags a fault. TBH needs a download with vag-com to see what fault code it has
 

mottles

Guest
Long shot but I've got a really squeaky front brake.. Maybe the calliper has seized a bit and causing the wheel to slow?
 
Aug 1, 2011
500
0
There is a couple of wires in a block connector at the front of the gearbox that snap and cause the light to come on..

Just need to cut the connector out and re-solder the wires together, very common fault.

Id personally start with that.
 

philje123

Chug chug
Jul 5, 2011
152
0
York
It is easily accesible from underneath the car. You may need to remove the cover first if there is one fitted.

ONe quick and simple way to check if it's that is to turn your ignition on (don't start the engine) and if you don't see a battery light then the wire is broken.

Phil
 
i have a similar fault with mk mk1 leon. it can work with no faults for a few days and then be constantly off for a few days. its intermmited fault. but sometimes when its working i can hit the breaks and as im coming to a stop the breaks will vibrate as the abs is working like im stopping on ice and then shortly after will disable abs and tcs. this happens in the dry. is this a faulty sensor and could need cleaning or a dodgy connection?
 

mottles

Guest
Excellent.. All the signs point to that. Not something I'd personally be able to do but would any garage be able to do this? An hours work?
 

DEAN0

Old Git
Feb 1, 2006
5,439
1
425
Preston - UK
Excellent.. All the signs point to that. Not something I'd personally be able to do but would any garage be able to do this? An hours work?

I would hope less than an hour - especially if you print out that thread and take it with you to show them exactly what to fix.

Mine took around 20 mins and that included taking the undertray off and re fitting it.
 

mottles

Guest
Further development on this.. Writing this from a bus stop as the cupra has just died on me.
I got up and started her and say waiting until my windows defrosted. All of a sudden radio switched off and airbag light flashed.

I turned her off and switched off the ignition (lights all fine bar battery light not coming on which was established earlier) radio all fine.. Tried turning over.. Nothing.

It was trying but it was like the battery was flat..

Any thoughts?
 

DEAN0

Old Git
Feb 1, 2006
5,439
1
425
Preston - UK
Further development on this.. Writing this from a bus stop as the cupra has just died on me.
I got up and started her and say waiting until my windows defrosted. All of a sudden radio switched off and airbag light flashed.

I turned her off and switched off the ignition (lights all fine bar battery light not coming on which was established earlier) radio all fine.. Tried turning over.. Nothing.

It was trying but it was like the battery was flat..

Any thoughts?

Battery voltage has now got below the voltage needed to run car.

Radio has switched off to try and assist battery - airbag light warning you that they are no longer functioning.

All a result of the battery not charging because your load signal wire is broken.
 

IxOZxI

Active Member
Jun 16, 2011
112
0
Yes I had alllllll the same symptoms and it was just a simple broken wire as said. easy to do yourself if you wish to save some money. The guide posted above is great. I managed it and I'm absoloutley hopeless when it comes to anything mechanical! or fixing anything
 

mottles

Guest
Mmmm just had word from the garage.. They can't find the fault. He said he took it for a drive and it cut out completely whilst driving this is from starting up fine. Then it wouldn't start up again do jumped it then started up a treat.

It's since cut out and by all accounts all kinds of lights are flashing. He said if he can't figure out what's up with it tomorrow he will need to call in an auto electrician.. Great!
 

mottles

Guest
I gave him the link to the guide and he said it wasn't that.. I'm going to head up there tomorrow and find out what the score is.. Been 4 days tomorrow.
 

philje123

Chug chug
Jul 5, 2011
152
0
York
If the load signal wire is broken the alternator will not put out ANY power unless the engine is revved. I think to over 2300 rpm. So unless he took the revs over this then the alternator will not put any voltage out.

That also explains why everything went dead just leaving the car idling on the drive as the engine hadn't gone above 2300rpm to make the alternator kick in.

Have you checked yet if you get the battery light showing up with the ignition on and the engine not running?

If it isn't lighting up at all then your signal wire is broken.

Phil
 
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