Warning for those attempting a V5 oil change

Feb 26, 2009
5,275
1
Wolverhampton
The V5 oil change, in it's basic form, is very easy. Take the cover off the bottom of the car, take the sump plug out, take the end of the housing off, replace the filter, and reverse as necessary. Its really easily accessible, far easier than any other car I've done a change on. If anyone has done a Nissan oil change, you'll know how hard it can be!!

However, I wanted to post a warning to those who are a bit 'cack-handed' (like me!). The end of the housing is plastic, not metal, and WILL break unless you get a good grip on it. That means either a strap or better still a socket of the right size. Don't try mole grips or anything 'gorilla like', as it will crack. I now have a nice trickle of oil coming out of my car, which isn't enough to disable the car, but enough to make me nervous about booting it.

I've just gone to the dealer, and the part is available to order on a 24 hour basis, so thats not too bad. But if I remember rightly, I'm going to get stung for a few pennies short of 25 notes, so its going to be an expensive botch job!!

My route back from the dealer tomorrow will take me past a tool shop of some kind, where I will get the relevant sized socket, and do the job properly...
 

AJ-V5

Active Member
Jun 27, 2009
65
0
The V5 oil change, in it's basic form, is very easy. Take the cover off the bottom of the car, take the sump plug out, take the end of the housing off, replace the filter, and reverse as necessary. Its really easily accessible, far easier than any other car I've done a change on. If anyone has done a Nissan oil change, you'll know how hard it can be!!

However, I wanted to post a warning to those who are a bit 'cack-handed' (like me!). The end of the housing is plastic, not metal, and WILL break unless you get a good grip on it. That means either a strap or better still a socket of the right size. Don't try mole grips or anything 'gorilla like', as it will crack. I now have a nice trickle of oil coming out of my car, which isn't enough to disable the car, but enough to make me nervous about booting it.

I've just gone to the dealer, and the part is available to order on a 24 hour basis, so thats not too bad. But if I remember rightly, I'm going to get stung for a few pennies short of 25 notes, so its going to be an expensive botch job!!

My route back from the dealer tomorrow will take me past a tool shop of some kind, where I will get the relevant sized socket, and do the job properly...



I was very wary of mine when i did this. Luckily had the right size bit though- also in plastic so it came off a dream. Silly oil filter housing design though if im honest
 
Feb 26, 2009
5,275
1
Wolverhampton
It's good practise, and for the sake of 10p (last time I checked) you might as well swap it. Having said that, I've done a fair few changes now, and never actually put a new one on!
 

Muttley

Catch that diesel!
Mar 17, 2006
4,987
31
North Kent
Sounds like the TDI engines with an upright filter housing, though in our case it's just the end cap - you also have the drain plug in the end, so it's metal-plastic-metal. Torque settings are very low, 7lb-ft for the drain plug and 16 for the filter cap (well, 10 Nm and 25 Nm to be accurate).

I've got a huge "cup wrench" socket for my oil filter housing. Definitely the only way - any adjustable is going to stress the plastic cap too much. Halfords can supply, or there are many online sources.

Howrare, oil is drained from the filter through a plug on the end of the low-mounted filter housing, which has an o-ring seal. New o-rings should be part of the filter kit.

The sump plug, if it's anything like mine, has a captive washer and can only be renewed as a complete item - you can't get the washer off to change it independently. A new plug+washer is about £1.50 though, not going to break the bank. Torque is 30Nm for the sump plug.
 
Last edited:
Feb 26, 2009
5,275
1
Wolverhampton
The one on mine is captive, the manual suggests it can be cut off with wire cutters and the new one will simply screw into place as you wind it in. Although I've not actually tried it...

I do remember there being some sort of plug in the end of the filter cap, but the sump plug is at least two or three inches lower so I use that to dump the oil. As for the torque settings, the first time I removed the housing it was a whole lot more than 25Nm!! The joys of full garage servicing prior to ownership...
 

Muttley

Catch that diesel!
Mar 17, 2006
4,987
31
North Kent
Slimy wrote

I do remember there being some sort of plug in the end of the filter cap, but the sump plug is at least two or three inches lower so I use that to dump the oil. As for the torque settings, the first time I removed the housing it was a whole lot more than 25Nm!! The joys of full garage servicing prior to ownership...​

Yes, of course you use the sump plug to drain the sump: I inadvertently posted my message before I'd finished editing it, then subjected it to a heap of updates trying to get the facts straight before my 15 minutes were up. The plug on the filter housing is for draining the filter, as far as I can tell.
 
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