Instrument Cluster White LED Lighting

I have liked the white numbers/letters and red needle instrument cluster lighting ever since my dad bought his A3 Sportback, and was so happy that the Leon was the same. After some research into the method I went about changing the lighting in the Ibiza.

I could only find 2 places in SA that sell the required LED type, SMD LED 3528, the "3528" meaning 3.5mm x 2.8mm in size . . . they are tiny! For this job one needs 12 white LEDs, 5 for the speedo, 5 for the rev counter, 1 for the fuel gauge and 1 for the temperature gauge.

http://www.communica.co.za/ProductListing.aspx?search=ka-3528&for=partNo&in=startsWith

http://shop.rabtron.co.za/catalog/a...sid=ad6297bf458880b05b5c3729ae0cc4db&x=17&y=9

Unfortunately the selection is limited and as noted on another forum 1000mcd would be the right brightness to go for. I had the choice between 300mcd (Communica) and 2000mcd (Rabtron). I chose to try the 2000mcd white LEDs from Rabtron.

Stripping the instrument cluster from the dash isnt too difficult, I beleive there are tutorials around for it. There are about 8 torx screws to remove in the process. Once the cluster is unplugged the covers are removed by unclipping these clips. Best method I found is to use some strips of hard plastic to slip under the clip so it remains unlatched until you can pry the cover off.



With the front and back covers removed you will have this,



This is a critical step in the dis-assembly. Take careful note of the needles positioning. I took close up pictures of the needles, you can also use small pieces of tape to mark them.







Next step is removing the needles. Care should be taken when removing them as they are driven by small stepper motors. To remove the needles pinch the centres and turn against the "flow" of the needle in regular operation. I.e. for the speedo, rev counter and temperature gauge turn anti-clockwise to remove needles. To remove the fuel gauge needle turn the needles clockwise. While turning pull straight up.

With the needles removed the printed plastic cluster sheet can be removed. With the sheet removed.



The LEDs to swap for the numbers/letters lighting are the 5 outer LEDs for the speedo and similarly for the rev counter,

There is one for each of the fuel and temperature gauges,



The white plastic cover needs to be removed to have access to the LEDs. There are 4 plastic clips on the underside of the board as well as 8 metal hooks (holding the LCD screens down). With those loosened the plastic cover can be lifted off gently.

Close inspection of the LEDs will reveal a corner that has been chamfered,



The corner with the chamfer indicates the polarity of the LED. Polarity is important with LEDs. Before removing any of the original LEDs mark the polarity on the board. This will save you from trial and error soldering of the LEDs. A good hint here would be to also take a close up clear picture of the board so you can see the correct polaritys (just incase).

Now the fun part starts. I was never the best solderer, it comes with my crappy welding skills too. I was really nervous when I started but having done 50+ LEDs now im more than comfortable with the task. The best way I found was to use a pair of special long tweezers (will post a pic) that I would hold the LED in with my left hand. With my right I would hold the solder. Always keep a small amount of fresh solder on the tip of the iron, whether desoldering the originals or soldering the new LEDs. I have a temp controlled soldering iron which i set to 235-245deg C. This seemed to be optimal for the small amount of solder. Do not keep the soldering iron pressed to the LED terminal for more than 3seconds. They are tiny LEDs and will burn out easily. Having said that its best to always buy a few extra in case any are faulty or burn out. Then its a matter of getting stuck in, desoldering the original LEDs and soldering on the new ones, remembering to have the chamfered corners on the same side that they were for the originals.

Once all the LEDs are swapped its a good idea to check them before re-assembling the cluster and chucking it back into the dash.



A "phenomenon" that I found was the two inner LEDs for the speedo and rev counter being brighter than the other 4 for each ring. This is suspected to be the way the LEDs are paired up on the circuit board. When the engine is running all the LEDs resume similar birghtness.

Once you are satisfied that everything is working sharp, put it all back together and re-install.

Results,

It took me about 3 hours to do. If I had to do another could probably get it done in an hour.

It cost me £1.5 (R20 south african rand) worth of LEDs. They are really cheap.

Good point Veyron Yeah you could definitely do that. Most of the warning lights are yellow so you could change those too!