Door lock microswitch Guide

[Neo]

This issue seems to come up every other week in the MK4 section and because I have some pictures from when I fixed mine, thought I`d do a guide.

Usual disclaimer: This is for information only, I accept no responsibility if you hurt yourself/someone else/your car/ someone else's car/your wallet/any animals etc.

Ok then, Symptoms of a failed microswitch are:
"Lights on" buzzer not working when you open the driver`s door (after leaving lights on).
And the car locks itself 30 seconds after unlocking, EVEN if you opened the door.

There are threads on cracked soldered joints on VW forums (same symptoms) but it seems just as common that the button that operates the microswitch wears down to the point where it`s not doing anything.
This button is only plastic and everytime you open the door a metal cam rubs over it to push it down, so eventually it wears away and stops working. This was the fault on mine and I managed to fix it without any expense (although it took me the best part of a day to do).
The main part of it is that you need to remove both the plastic outer and metal inner door cards.

So, this is how you get access to the door lock module:

Start by prising the door handle apart as in the pic, the upper part comes away upward and the handle just pulls off toward you, remove the plug under the window switches.



There are two philips screws concealed in the handle that need to be removed (see pic2).

You don`t need to remove the chrome handle above it but there is a plug behind it you take off later.



Remove the torx screws at the bottom of the door card.

Remove the plastic clips (8 I think) holding the door card on by pulling the card outwards toward you - they will pop out.
The card is sealed in tight to the window seal so hit it upward from the bottom until it comes away at the top.
Once it is free remove the handle cable, the led and mirror plug from the back.

Now for the metal door card:



Plug the window switch back in and open the two black rubber bungs, lower the window until you see the two bolts on the window brackets like this:



Remove both 10mm bolts and tape the window in place with STRONG tape and protect your paint at the top of the door by using a rag. You could remove the glass later but why complicate? Remove the window switch again.

Remove the plugs for the speakers, window motor and led if you have one. The wires will just hang there.
Remove the 11 bolts holding the card on and it should pull away - there is a seal on it.

Remove the plug for the lock module.

Unclip the card from the lock module by pulling it forward (towards the door hinges).

This is easier if you have a facelift car as they don`t have door pins; if your`s does, just be careful you don`t bend it too much at this stage.

Refitting is pretty much reversal of removal but I will say make sure the window engages into its two brackets properly or it could really ruin your day.



Once the metal card is off you can remove the lock module which is tucked away in the corner of the door, only 2 screws for it but they are 12-point star drive so careful you don`t round them using something else!

At this point it`s personal choice - swap it with a new module or try to fix yours.
This is mine while still fitted (sorry I did`nt take any pics of the actual job once removed!).



You can (hopefully) see the white button under the cam, what I did was prise the microswitch off the module and take it apart, then took the button out and turned it 180 degrees, and refitted everything.
The button wears down at an angle, so by turning it round it gives the cam a fresh profile to push on... it should last for a bit anyway!

New modules are expensive, but you could try a second-hand module off ebay, I`ve seen them for about £30, make sure it`s off a newer car though, as there should be more material left on the button... if you had a newer button AND turned it round it should last even longer.
Oh, and test your fix BEFORE you fully re-fit the door cards... just in case you need to get in there again!

Hope this helps someone anyway!

Cheers,
Neil.

[bald_eagle]

nice guide thanks.
someone said they used one of those do you think that would be possible?

http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?...=29m3#overview

[Neo]

Originally Posted by bald_eagle

nice guide thanks.
someone said they used one of those do you think that would be possible?

http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?...=29m3#overview

Yes I bought one similar, but did`nt use it in the end.. should still be around here somewhere.

It should work yes but it would need wiring in and bolting/riveting into place, also the positioning of it would need to be accurate on the first attempt so that the cam operates it.
In the end it was just easier for me to switch the original button.

[bald_eagle]

Originally Posted by Neo

Yes I bought one similar, but did`nt use it in the end.. should still be around here somewhere.

It should work yes but it would need wiring in and bolting/riveting into place, also the positioning of it would need to be accurate on the first attempt so that the cam operates it.
In the and it was just easier for me to switch the original button.

yes i imagined it would be a bit of a pain too fit and don't blame you for just turning it round, It should last a few years and probably longer than you will own the car.

[Red Panda]

Could I ask, how easy/difficult was it to get the window glass located correctly and the metal card back on?

I'm okay about getting the plastic door card off but am very wary of the inner door mechanism. I have a strange feeling of possible disaster if I mess it up!

Cheers Neo

[Neo]

Originally Posted by Red Panda

Could I ask, how easy/difficult was it to get the window glass located correctly and the metal card back on?

I'm okay about getting the plastic door card off but am very wary of the inner door mechanism. I have a strange feeling of possible disaster if I mess it up!

Cheers Neo

I found it quite easy to actually locate the glass when refitting. Because you need to lower it slightly to remove the bolts, when you re-fit the metal card you can lift the glass slightly to locate it back into the mounts... all will become clear when you see it.

I thought I was going to break something every 5 minutes! Just have a good look behind when you start to pull the metal card away to make sure.
It`s only a few bolts and connectors really, no need to worry about the window mech.. just be sure you secure the glass!

[Red Panda]

Thanks for your very helpful reply Neo. I have this Sunday set aside to fit my sound deadening and new Hertz speakers...I'll give it a go to take the metal door cards off! I'm still a bit about it though I'll certainly take your advice on board!. Cheers Fella

[CiechanPL]

This microswitch is a horrible,why they put this little sh... in dor lock?!

[CGD217]

Originally Posted by Red Panda

Thanks for your very helpful reply Neo. I have this Sunday set aside to fit my sound deadening and new Hertz speakers...I'll give it a go to take the metal door cards off! I'm still a bit about it though I'll certainly take your advice on board!. Cheers Fella

Did you ever get round to it buddy?

[Red Panda]

I did and it made a brilliant difference to fit the sound deadening and the Hertz DSK 165 speakers. Not as scary a job as I thought. The doors now make a more satisfying 'thunk' noise rather than a tinny 'van' door sound and the speakers are excellent

[Neo]

Originally Posted by Red Panda

I did and it made a brilliant difference to fit the sound deadening and the Hertz DSK 165 speakers. Not as scary a job as I thought. The doors now make a more satisfying 'thunk' noise rather than a tinny 'van' door sound and the speakers are excellent

Good to hear that mate, I`ve put Vibe blackair components in mine with some sponge soundproofing.. makes all the difference as you say.

But it looks like I need to take my metal card off again there`s a metallic "tick" noise coming from the lock area when I go over bumps, just started the other day.

[110bhp]

where is this switch i cant see it on this pic ....

[IMG]ht tp://i707.photobucket.com/albums/ww71/Carbonfido/lock1.jpg[/IMG]

My car has the symptoms you described (no buzzer and locks itself)

Is it worth dismantling all this just to fix the buzzer on my car or is it more serious than just a buzzer not working? Do u have any better pics of the lock assembly?

[Neo]

Originally Posted by 110bhp

where is this switch i cant see it on this pic ....

[IMG]ht tp://i707.photobucket.com/albums/ww71/Carbonfido/lock1.jpg[/IMG]

My car has the symptoms you described (no buzzer and locks itself)

Is it worth dismantling all this just to fix the buzzer on my car or is it more serious than just a buzzer not working? Do u have any better pics of the lock assembly?

It is in the middle of the red circle, sorry it`s not very well identified. It`s a white plastic round button and is on top of the block with the two wires going into it.

I don`t have any more pics I`m afraid.
For me it was worth doing because sometimes I open my car then leave the door open (when I`m cleaning it or getting something out)... and when I did this the alarm kept going off... Also when the missus uses it she has a habit of leaving keys inside - only a matter of time before it locked them in!

Oh and you have a gap in the URL for some reason, (The http bit). Think that`s why the pic has`nt worked.

[110bhp]

Sorry i had to put a space in it because of a low post count. Stupid forum rule! I think i will have a go at stripping it all down at the weekend. And try your method of flipping the switch. Might even replace the switch but dont want my car in bits for too long!!

Why fit such a cheap switch on a door lock is this the same on fabias and 9n polos? Reason im asking is so i can look for replacement parts on ebay. Also is there any more info on this on other polo or fabia forums?

[Neo]

Originally Posted by 110bhp

And try your method of flipping the switch. Might even replace the switch but dont want my car in bits for too long!!

Why fit such a cheap switch on a door lock is this the same on fabias and 9n polos? Reason im asking is so i can look for replacement parts on ebay. Also is there any more info on this on other polo or fabia forums?

I`m not sure what other cars use the same lock module, it may well be Ibiza specific, and 3-door specific at that.

It may be worth getting one if you can find one for a low price, you could then plug it straight in and move the lock to see if it works.
This would be easier than splitting yours open and putting it back together, (to be honest it`s a bit of a pain).. also depending on your mileage there may not be enough left on the button when you turn it over.. so be sure the one you get is newer than yours.

[CGD217]

Does anybody know the part number for the lock?

[CGD217]

Also does £45 sound good for a used door mech?

[CGD217]

Got the bloke down to 40, the mech is in working order from a 2003 ibiza, i was thinking about taking off my one and fixing the microswitch then when this one goes i'll swap em over fix it nd sell it. Making my money back?

[tucker999]

Dont know if this is already on here somewhere, but i have a mk1 cupra 1.8t. im trying to remove the door lock mechanism but cannot remove the lock barrel or surrounding cap. i have loosened torx bit until it nearly falls out. what else do i need to do, it wont even wiggle and i dont know if its supposed to go out the door or inwards to remove???? help help please!!!!!! my car is in peices
!

[1000baird]

ive just noticed that my passenger door microswitch has stopped working (car locks with door open and interior light doesnt come on)
ive been looking at the guide and i feel confident enough to tackle the process of getting the lock mechanism out but am worry about opening the lock to get at the mechanism.
is there much stripping to get the microswitch out?
also how long would you suggest i set aside to carry out this process from disassembly/fixing the microswitch and assembly?
thanks