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View Full Version : What the N75 valve does...


Tazkenny
29-10-2002, 20:40
Found this on 20VTurbo.com ...

Here goes....
As i see many of you are totally confused about the N75 valve (what it does, how is it working), just exactly as i was before digging myself into the topic quite deeply. My car was seriously down on power - i even posted some desperate topics here too, but noone was able to give me any usable suggestions/answers. At the end, i found that there was some problem with my N75 valve (though it was working OK) which prevented the car to produce more boost than stock.
So, if any of you has problems with the N75 valve - or just got problems but don't really know what is it related to, then read more further.
The turbo, the boost it produces, the N75 and the ECU.
These are the most important things which you have to focus on. As we know, we got a turbo on our engine which produces boost. The turbo is "driven" by the exhaust gasses our engine produces. Exhaust spools up the turbine in the turbo which is mounted on the same driveshaft as the compressor which then generates boost. I persume it is all clear for everybody.
There is a wastegate on our turbos (as usually on every turbo) which looks like a simple valve, just exactly like in the cylinderhead. There's a difference though, the valves in the head are operated by the cams, the valve (wastegate) in the turbo is operated by pressurized air. When pressurized air is introduced to the wastegate, it will open, enabling the exhaust gasses to escape and skip the turbo. This will result in a dramatical loss of boost, because there will be no gas which would spin the turbo. I bet this is (was) also clear for everybody.
But how is this all hooked up???
Quite simply. The wastegate is operated by the turbo itself. The boost the turbo produces is directly fed to its own wastegate. What does this mean? When the turbo spools up, it will create boost and this boost will open its own wastegate, shutting itself automatically down.
But where's boost control? And wheres ECU?
Here comes the N75 valve. The N75 valve is inserted between the turbo's high pressure output and the wastegate. If the turbo would directly linked to the wastegate, it would not be able to produce lets say more than 0.3-0.4 bar of boost, because it would shut itself down immediately. When the ECU wants more boost (because you are stepping on it for example), it WENTS some air from this loop (turbo--->wastegate) so the wastegate will not open at all, or will open later.
The N75 has got 1 boost input, and 2 outputs. At the input, boost is entering into the N75 and exits on one of the outputs going to the wastegate. When N75 is closed (default state), all the boost goes to the wastegate. When ECU opens the N75 valve (because it has got an electrical plug too coming from ECU), so when ECU opens it, some of this boost (which would operate the wastegate) is leaving/leaking back to the inlet (and not opening wastegate). Since the N75 valve has NO state in between, is is opened or closed. The ECU switches it ON/OFF all the time (several times a second) to generate the desired amount of boost. Doesn't it reminds you to something???? ... Yeah, it's surging. But it is absolutely normal, this is how ECU controls the wastegate. When a car is chipped, the boost is a LOT higher than it is designed to operate on, so this kind of boost control will be noticable.
By adjusting the N75 valve, you can adjust the amount of air which should leave when the N75 is opened. If you adjust the N75 to the right, you will "close" the N75 valve, so just a few amounts of air is wented from the wastegate which will result in a lot smoother drive (eliminating surging, because the boost will be more constant), BUT at the same time it will introduce more boost to the wastegate, causing LESS overall boost. Adjusting the N75 valve to the left will "open" it, enabling more air to escape from the wastegate when N75 is opened, which will result in more boost (coz wastegate wont open), BUT at the same time it MAY cause surging as the N75 opening/closing will be more obvious.

Sim
29-10-2002, 22:42
hmm, so they put this up to the 20VTurbo.com, too.

Shock_Xe
30-10-2002, 09:21
has any1 tried the ecs race n75 valve??? and how do u rate them???

vibrio
30-10-2002, 22:07
the N75 is a bleed valve controlled by the ECU. the equvilent is called peirburgh in my GT. I replaced mine with a bleed valve soon to be dawes valve. means I get much quicker spool up and hold boost. it's set at normal peak of 1.2 bar but instead of hitting 10psi at 6000rpm I get 14psi

Sim
30-10-2002, 22:37
It is said that the "ECS race valve" is a redistribution of an old OEM audi valve (used in old S4): part nr. 034-906-283-H

Shock_Xe
30-10-2002, 22:59
Originally posted by Sim
It is said that the "ECS race valve" is a redistribution of an old OEM audi valve (used in old S4): part nr. 034-906-283-H

Can anyone else confirm??? How do u rate the N75 Valve? Any1 have one?? is it worth it??

Getting chipped on sat by stealth, so looking at other (cheaper) mods to do after

vibrio
31-10-2002, 08:28
all 20VT's have them just depends on the code for it does it not

DaveP
31-10-2002, 08:31
I can confirm that Sim probably read and followed all the info over on vwvortex forums - yes.

Somebody posted up a before and after plot yesterday as well.

Shock_Xe
31-10-2002, 10:20
Originally posted by vibrio
all 20VT's have them just depends on the code for it does it not

misunderstanding, im on about the ecs race n75 valve sorry!!! Has any1 here had any experience with them and noticable power gains??

Sim
31-10-2002, 12:23
Shock,

the ECS N75 race valve does not work for everybody! It causes a little boost overshot (more boost than ECU's request) which may actually take your car into soft limp mode. It turned out that my 1.5mm restriction trick does almost the same (turns your OEM N75 valve into a "race" valve). You may try that trick and if it works (wont throw you into limp mode) you may consider getting the real stuff (if that will make any difference at all).

Sim
31-10-2002, 12:27
Originally posted by DaveP
[B]I can confirm that Sim probably read and followed all the info over on vwvortex forums - yes.


Thanks Dave :cheers:

I've been messing with my N75 valves a lot since this little b.stard caused me major headache after being chipped, so i decided i'll learn what it does and how it works. I became a quite new but yet respected member on the vwvortex due to my n75 related posts.

Havok316
23-01-2009, 16:05
Hi any update on this?

dainott2105
02-05-2009, 10:32
good read and might help me to eliminate the surging that has just started.

Pabs
18-08-2009, 14:42
has this worked for anyone? Has anyone "adjusted" the n75 and got good results? I assume adjustment is just via the screwhead on the back?

Pabs
19-08-2009, 09:08
Anyone??

I think I've got a spare N75 from my Leon somewhere, although not sure if it's the same model/revision or not.

Does anyone know what the std N75 is for a mk4 ibiza cupra? Is it "F" ?

Pabs
19-08-2009, 21:31
I've done loads of searching, and all info points to this post and others - with nobody confirming it. Therefore, I'm not too sure it's possible to adjust the N75. I may try to do this if I'm sure I've got a replacement that works, and will test on the "faulty" one.

Damoegan
19-08-2009, 21:34
I tryed a N75 H valve which people say is a ECS race valve with the part number ground off. It caused boost surge so I replaced it with the standard one after 5 miles.

Pabs
19-08-2009, 21:37
Do you know which one is std on the mk4 mate? Is it the F? (Same as Leon?)

Damoegan
19-08-2009, 21:40
Dont know off the top of my head, Paul.

I can check tomorrow for you though.

Pabs
19-08-2009, 21:41
Tis ok mate, doesn't matter. Just thought if you'd had it off the car, and replaced it, you may know which one it was.
I can check - but I need to get some time in the engine bay and get it off the car.

B3LSY
19-08-2009, 21:43
so anyone done it?

Pabs
19-08-2009, 22:32
I think it's rubbish - don't think adjustment is supposed to be done and could render it useless.
That said, if I have to get a replacement, it may be worth a shot just to see if it does work or not.

s1l3nc3r
19-08-2009, 22:38
I think the best way to have it "adjustable" would be to bypass it with a MBC but just leave it pluged in electronicly...

Pabs
21-08-2009, 14:46
This article has helped me a lot - it tells you exactly how the N75 works, and what it does.

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=1476692

pay particular attention to the last 4 lines of the article, which I feel apply if you are running a standard car.

On the other side of the argument - perhaps with increased boost (from a remap) the ECU's "messages" to the N75 are slightly askew from the factory configuration, and hence require tweaking? I'm not sure how accurate the factory calibration is, so wonder if you can get the N75's recalibrated???

EDIT: Re-reading this, if I've got my spare N75 at home, I'm going to fit it. If it doesn't cure the problem, I'm going to adjust it via the screw and see what happens. I think the key fact from research is that the adjustment is NOT a huge amount - it's a tiny turn of the screw in either direction. And from my mechanical experience, to bleed MORE air off by lifting the plunger (thus increasing boost by keeping the wastegate actuator closed) the screw would need to be turned CLOCKWISE. To decrease boost (and push the plunger down further, opening the wastegate) it'd need to be turned ANTI-CLOCKWISE.

I can't see how an N75 itself becomes "faulty". If it had a component that could wear, and thus leak (such as the OEM DV rubber diaphragm) then it'd make sense - as this seems to involve solid plunger & screw adjustment may well cure the issue.

Note: It seems that the screw is GLUED in place. In order to adjust it, without breaking it, the N75 needs to be warm/hot.

rsmith
15-04-2010, 23:30
This article has helped me a lot - it tells you exactly how the N75 works, and what it does.

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=1476692

pay particular attention to the last 4 lines of the article, which I feel apply if you are running a standard car.

On the other side of the argument - perhaps with increased boost (from a remap) the ECU's "messages" to the N75 are slightly askew from the factory configuration, and hence require tweaking? I'm not sure how accurate the factory calibration is, so wonder if you can get the N75's recalibrated???

EDIT: Re-reading this, if I've got my spare N75 at home, I'm going to fit it. If it doesn't cure the problem, I'm going to adjust it via the screw and see what happens. I think the key fact from research is that the adjustment is NOT a huge amount - it's a tiny turn of the screw in either direction. And from my mechanical experience, to bleed MORE air off by lifting the plunger (thus increasing boost by keeping the wastegate actuator closed) the screw would need to be turned CLOCKWISE. To decrease boost (and push the plunger down further, opening the wastegate) it'd need to be turned ANTI-CLOCKWISE.

I can't see how an N75 itself becomes "faulty". If it had a component that could wear, and thus leak (such as the OEM DV rubber diaphragm) then it'd make sense - as this seems to involve solid plunger & screw adjustment may well cure the issue.

Note: It seems that the screw is GLUED in place. In order to adjust it, without breaking it, the N75 needs to be warm/hot.

Pabs did you ever get around to adjusting the N75 via the screw in the top? just our of interest.

Pabs
22-04-2010, 19:31
I had a bit of a play with a spare N75 I had, checking in vag-com with really minor adjustments.

TBH, results were inconclusive - I *thought* it had done some good, and then the problem resurfaced - I don't know whether the car has the ability to adjust it's PWM signal to counteract anything I changed or not... but it didn't resolve any issues.

I'm going to go for an MBC soon I think.

rsmith
22-04-2010, 20:19
I had a bit of a play with a spare N75 I had, checking in vag-com with really minor adjustments.

TBH, results were inconclusive - I *thought* it had done some good, and then the problem resurfaced - I don't know whether the car has the ability to adjust it's PWM signal to counteract anything I changed or not... but it didn't resolve any issues.

I'm going to go for an MBC soon I think.

THanks, that saves me a pill of feic'in around with the valve, i must look into an MBC myself just to have more control over boost, although i thought i read somewhere they don't work that well on the 1.8t.

Anekiller
22-06-2010, 22:26
which is the best n75 to use????