View Full Version : Clutch pedal on the floor
somthing on clutch pedal snapped sending the clutch pedal to the floor now the garage have ordered all the plastic clips and suff for the pedal but there said if this does nt work its inside the clutch itself where rthe problem is and that is a new clutch there think and any one else had the problem please
Avant4me
10-01-2009, 03:43
somthing on clutch pedal snapped sending the clutch pedal to the floor now the garage have ordered all the plastic clips and suff for the pedal but there said if this does nt work its inside the clutch itself where rthe problem is and that is a new clutch there think and any one else had the problem please
There is nothing to snap??? If the pedal is still intact, then it is going to be the clutch master cylinder which sits behind the clutch pedal and pushes hydraulic fluid through the system to separate the clutch. This is a common thing to go on the 6 speed box so the dealer will have the part in stock. From recollection its only about £45 for the part but about 4 hrs labour to fit.
There is nothing to snap???
Yes there is, a silly plastic clip that holds the rod to the clutch master cylinder.
I posted on this elsewhere recently. Probably time I wrote this up as a starter for a sticky note. Cut-and-paste:
There is a known issue with sheet metal pedals where the little folded-and-spot-welded metal box fails, allowing the flap at the rear of the box to pop open under pressure from the master cylinder pushrod as you depress the clutch. The pushrod propels the little white plastic clip back through the now-open box, breaking it on its way out, and in bad cases also bending the pushrod. The pedal now can't operate the clutch master cylinder, so you are left without clutch control.
The clip is there to center the pushrod in the metal box on the pedal, but the incipient failure is of the spot welds on the little box. If you can see any movement of the flaps that make up the box, get it fixed before it fails.
A Seat dealer will replace the pedal, taking out the front seat to get enough room to work. If you have the facilities, the pedal can be repaired by redoing the welds, and making them good ones not little spots.
To sum up: The failure is of the sheet metal pedal construction itself. The plastic clip breaks as a side-effect but replacing the clip won't help on its own, the pedal must be made good or replaced.
EDIT: Downthread, Dre included a link to a good description, with photos, on the UK-MkIV's forum, so I've copied it here (http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/p/18012/1028565.aspx#1028565). hope he doesn't mind . . .
The impact of the clutch master cylinder piston hitting the back of the cylinder can cause the seals to fail, leading to hydraulic fluid leaking into the footwell, and a slow, repeated failure of the clutch due to lack of fluid - you fill it up thinking you've solved the problem only for it to leak away again. This can only be solved by a new master cylinder, I believe, as the seal kits aren't availabile?
Markyboyt
10-01-2009, 21:03
I posted on this elsewhere recently. Probably time I wrote this up as a starter for a sticky note. Cut-and-paste:
There is a known issue with sheet metal pedals where the little folded-and-spot-welded metal box fails, allowing the flap at the rear of the box to pop open under pressure from the master cylinder pushrod as you depress the clutch. The pushrod propels the little white plastic clip back through the now-open box, breaking it on its way out, and in bad cases also bending the pushrod. The pedal now can't operate the clutch master cylinder, so you are left without clutch control.
The clip is there to center the pushrod in the metal box on the pedal, but the incipient failure is of the spot welds on the little box. If you can see any movement of the flaps that make up the box, get it fixed before it fails.
A Seat dealer will replace the pedal, taking out the front seat to get enough room to work. If you have the facilities, the pedal can be repaired by redoing the welds, and making them good ones not little spots.
To sum up: The failure is of the sheet metal pedal construction itself. The plastic clip breaks as a side-effect but replacing the clip won't help on its own, the pedal must be made good or replaced.
The impact of the clutch master cylinder piston hitting the back of the cylinder can cause the seals to fail, leading to hydraulic fluid leaking into the footwell, and a slow, repeated failure of the clutch due to lack of fluid - you fill it up thinking you've solved the problem only for it to leak away again. This can only be solved by a new master cylinder, I believe, as the seal kits aren't availabile?
Sort of irrelevant but this also happens on Vauxhall combo vans as had it a few weeks back on my bro's 05 plate van. Bloody swine to change the pedal in the baltic cold.
thanks for the help lads it is currently at a garage not the dealer so i hope there can sort it without a new clutch or tak it to the sealers because there just take the piss have my eyes out cheers again
i cant belave this i was just comeing up the road to pull in my drive just now and bang clutch pedal goneto the floor and a plastic white clip on the floor! for f*** sake, anouther promblam that has started to nice is my brakes makeing a funny noise and my abs kicking in all the time! seats are SHITE!
Markyboyt
11-01-2009, 10:19
i cant belave this i was just comeing up the road to pull in my drive just now and bang clutch pedal goneto the floor and a plastic white clip on the floor! for f*** sake, anouther promblam that has started to nice is my brakes makeing a funny noise and my abs kicking in all the time! seats are SHITE!
Unfortunately all cars break, sounds like you've got the clutch pedal fault described. As for the abs and brakes I'd guess at a possible sensor fault, get it on vagcom
all fixed now he said he replace some plastic clip and welded somthing on padel that had broken but it spot on now thanks for all your help again lads hope to speak so on a good post i hope
Yeah all the mkIV/A3/Leons seem to have this problem at some point, thankfully it's a relatively cheap and easy fix - but scary when it happens
My pedal shot straight to the floor a couple of days ago and the garage I had it towed to won't even look at my car bacuase I had it converted to LPG and they say they'd have to dismantle some of this system to find the problem.
I'm having it towed to a garage that specialised in LPG cars tomorrow but would like to have some idea of what's wrong.
I have read loads about what I think you're talking about and about broken white plastic clips or something, but to throw a spanner in the works, there's been another prob...
For the past 2 months, my brake warning light has been coming on (red triangle thing with exclamation mark) and beeping at me. It sorts itself out after I top up the brake fluid- maybe the wrong thing to have done. I planned on having the hydraulics looked at the next time the car was serviced.
I'd love to think my clutch prob is just this clip thingy, but am worried it could be the slave/master cylinder just because of the probs I've had with the brakes (NB- brake performance was never a problem, just the light that kept coming on the dashboard)
I need to have a guesstimate of how much all this could cost.
HELP!!!!
Sarah (a forum newby)
Markyboyt
14-01-2009, 21:00
My pedal shot straight to the floor a couple of days ago and the garage I had it towed to won't even look at my car bacuase I had it converted to LPG and they say they'd have to dismantle some of this system to find the problem.
I'm having it towed to a garage that specialised in LPG cars tomorrow but would like to have some idea of what's wrong.
I have read loads about what I think you're talking about and about broken white plastic clips or something, but to throw a spanner in the works, there's been another prob...
For the past 2 months, my brake warning light has been coming on (red triangle thing with exclamation mark) and beeping at me. It sorts itself out after I top up the brake fluid- maybe the wrong thing to have done. I planned on having the hydraulics looked at the next time the car was serviced.
I'd love to think my clutch prob is just this clip thingy, but am worried it could be the slave/master cylinder just because of the probs I've had with the brakes (NB- brake performance was never a problem, just the light that kept coming on the dashboard)
I need to have a guesstimate of how much all this could cost.
HELP!!!!
Sarah (a forum newby)
Whats your brake fluid level like now you have the pedal hitting the floor?
If its ok then theres still a good chance its the pedal, Can't imagine what having LPG has to do with it though, its only if a component of the system runs over where they need to get.
I'd say have a look at your clutch pedal to see if you can see if its that but if its being towed to another garage tomorrow then theres no point lol
The brake fluid level was a tiny bit low, but only by about 10ml or something minimal. I poured a tad more fluid in, but it made no difference to the clutch. Do you think the brake and clutch probs in this case are two different issues?
I don't have the car at home with me at the moment, it's at the garage waiting for the mechanic to check it out tomorrow. If I phone him in the morning, is there somewhere specific I should ask him to look? Will the problem be obvious in the foot well where the pedals are, or does he need to get under the car or under the bonnet?
Thank you!
sjr50 wrote
My pedal shot straight to the floor a couple of days ago and the garage I had it towed to won't even look at my car bacuase I had it converted to LPG and they say they'd have to dismantle some of this system to find the problem.
That sounds unlikely, but without seeing what the conversion involved I couldn't be sure. But I think that you're being fobbed off.
For the past 2 months, my brake warning light has been coming on (red triangle thing with exclamation mark) and beeping at me. It sorts itself out after I top up the brake fluid- maybe the wrong thing to have done. I planned on having the hydraulics looked at the next time the car was serviced.
Waitabit. Is that in the middle of the bottom row? That's the TCS/ESP warning light, indicating a problem with the Traction Control or Electronic Stability systems (depending on which one you have). This is unlikely to be associated with hydraulic fluid levels unless it's all gone.
The hydraulic fluid level warning is in the middle of the top row - a stylised brake drum with dashed blocks each side and an exclamation mark in the middle.
In any event, I'd not be happy to carry on using a car that was telling me something was wrong with the brakes. They are too important - if you had an accident because you'd ignored the warnings you would be at fault (and the warnings are logged in the ECU).
I'd love to think my clutch prob is just this clip thingy, but am worried it could be the slave/master cylinder just because of the probs I've had with the brakes (NB- brake performance was never a problem, just the light that kept coming on the dashboard)
The first step is to get the fault codes read and see what they say about the problems. Something is up with the TCS/ESP systems for a start. If the LPG specialist doesn't have VAG-com or a near equivalent, you need to find someone (a Seat dealer, an independent VAG specialist or maybe even someone from the forum willing to help with a VAG-com diagnosis) to read the codes.
Now, about the clutch pedal. Did the pedal go to the floor when you were trying to change gear? Was there a white plastic clip in two pieces on the floor? If so, then you have had the pedal failure I was talking about upthread. The garage will fix it by putting a new clutch pedal on. The clutch master cylinder seals may have been damaged as well - this would lead to brake fluid leaking from the seals, probably into the car and onto (and under) the carpet. That will need the master cylinder replacing.
It's really easy to tell if this is the problem, just bend down and take a look in the footwell. If the pedal has a rod sticking out of a folded-back tab of metal, you are looking at the failure.
Thanks for getting back to me Muttley. I don't have the car here at home to check out what I can see on the floor so I phoned the LPG garage just now. They've just retrieved my car from the impossible Evans Halshaw garage.
The mechanic guy knows exactly what I'm talking about (thanks to you lot).
Fingers crossed it's just going to be a simple weld or cheap plastic clip!!
As for my brake warning light thing- I miss-typed it. It is an exclamation mark in square brackets on the top row of lights. I just found out the sensor wasn't wired to the filler cap thingy too well. Sorted.
Sarah
Hmmmmm....
Well. Tony at the garage just got back to me. The whole pedal including the little white clip and the spot-welded box thingy is intact. He says it looks like the master cylinder is broken. He then cursed the design of the car because the cylinder is in the gear box or something. He then told me it looks like 1 1/2 days work. He's provisionally saying £250 plus parts (however much they are), but he thinks it'll be closer to £350-400+.
Ouch!
He's going to check out my clutch while he's in there too and see how much life it has left in it. I asked him to get in touch with me if it looks like it's going to be over £400.
The guy sounds like he knows what he's talking about. Do these prices sound right, or scary-high?
Sarah
Had the clutch problem after driving back from snetterton last year,went to the floor while parked up in garage overnight,first had master cylinder done behind the dashboard,bled the clutch and was ok for 3 days next day clutch on the floor gear box out -slave cylinder in the gearbox. £270 or there abouts at a performance garage.
Fallen Angel
21-01-2009, 14:05
I had the pedal failure before christmas too, i got a new pedal and white clip from Seat and fitted it ourselves.
However my other half broke the blue and black sensor above the pedal, it wouldn't rotate back in to place properly, it didn't seem to do anything to the driveability of the car so took it work, and on the way back the Engine Management light came on.
Have fitted a new sensor, not sure what it is, but the light is still on. Any ideas what that sensor is?
Also, having not driven the car for almost a month, i forgot what the clutch was like, is it normal for the pedal to wobble side to side a little??
dont really know much about cars.went to the local seat dealers and they didnt seem to know alot either.a mate of mine owns a performance garage.he went through everthing as he did it with me showed me the broken parts, which was the slave cylinder,as iwas worrried about being ripped off,he also gained a bit of experience on seats.i just thought iwould post what had happened to me and thought it might help if anyone else had this problem. jim
Markyboyt
22-01-2009, 19:00
I had the pedal failure before christmas too, i got a new pedal and white clip from Seat and fitted it ourselves.
However my other half broke the blue and black sensor above the pedal, it wouldn't rotate back in to place properly, it didn't seem to do anything to the driveability of the car so took it work, and on the way back the Engine Management light came on.
Have fitted a new sensor, not sure what it is, but the light is still on. Any ideas what that sensor is?
Also, having not driven the car for almost a month, i forgot what the clutch was like, is it normal for the pedal to wobble side to side a little??
The sensor in question sounds like the clutch switch to me, was it mounted on the clutch assembly it self so that when the clutch is at rest state it presses the switch?
I don't think its normal for the pedal to wobble and it might be worth getting it looked at, you definitely did all the bolts up on it didnt you? It does of course depend how much its wobbling and if your feeling it with your foot or hand.
Fallen Angel
23-01-2009, 10:56
The sensor in question sounds like the clutch switch to me, was it mounted on the clutch assembly it self so that when the clutch is at rest state it presses the switch?
Yes that's the one
I don't think its normal for the pedal to wobble and it might be worth getting it looked at, you definitely did all the bolts up on it didnt you? It does of course depend how much its wobbling and if your feeling it with your foot or hand.
Yep everything back in place as it should be and tightened up, i didn't do it myself but i double checked it. I can feel it wobble with my foot, i'd say it wobbles around a cm either way, it's not moving side to side on the main bolt though if you get what i mean.
I got my car back a few days ago. It wasn't the little plastic clip thingy that was broken, it was worse.
It needed a new clutch because the ?slave/master (I forgot already) cylinder had been leaking fluid over the clutch. I don't know much (anything) about clutches, but the bit of it that's supposed to be dry was covered in the brake fluid stuff and was eroded. The mechanic guy reckoned it had two months life on it, but I asked him to change it anyway. So after a new cylinder thing, new clutch and labour, I'm £560 less off. Oh well. I hope it doesn't happen again!!
Thanks for your help,
Sarah
(Oh yeah, if anyone is near Leicester and fancies helping me put some ambient lighting in my footwells (not in a chav-fashion), please let me know. Cups of tea included!)
kineticz
27-01-2009, 02:24
lol, I had this exact same thing happen to me on my previous car, mk4 Golf, but on the motorway!! Was in traffic and somehow I managed to pull to the hard shoulder and stall it. Took me 7 hours to get home :(
In the end what I did was weld a piece of metal over the white plastic clip to hold it in place, worked a treat :) Never had a problem again.
Markyboyt
27-01-2009, 07:21
I got my car back a few days ago. It wasn't the little plastic clip thingy that was broken, it was worse.
It needed a new clutch because the ?slave/master (I forgot already) cylinder had been leaking fluid over the clutch. I don't know much (anything) about clutches, but the bit of it that's supposed to be dry was covered in the brake fluid stuff and was eroded. The mechanic guy reckoned it had two months life on it, but I asked him to change it anyway. So after a new cylinder thing, new clutch and labour, I'm £560 less off. Oh well. I hope it doesn't happen again!!
Thanks for your help,
Sarah
(Oh yeah, if anyone is near Leicester and fancies helping me put some ambient lighting in my footwells (not in a chav-fashion), please let me know. Cups of tea included!)
£560? Ouch that's a big hit especially after xmas. It will be your slave cylinder then.
What sort of ambient light are you fitting?
This happened to me about a year and a half ago in the Cupra R ... on the way UP a hill. It got stuck in gear so I had to push it to the side of the road, then got it towed to a stealer. They charged me an arm and a leg and welded bits together?? The clutch has never been the same and is very stiff :(
I know it's the wrong thread, but seeing as well I was asked in this one :) ...
Looking to fit a flexible red LED strip but don't know where to start. I've seen the threads specific to fitting ambient lighting, but I don't even know where abouts in the car I'd find the wiring to which I'd have to connect the LED lights. Most of the info I can find relates to footwell lighting which comes on when the doors are opened, but I want mine to be on when the head lights are on i.e at night.
Any ideas?
Have a search for wiring in a boost gauge ;)
Markyboyt
27-01-2009, 18:42
I know it's the wrong thread, but seeing as well I was asked in this one :) ...
Looking to fit a flexible red LED strip but don't know where to start. I've seen the threads specific to fitting ambient lighting, but I don't even know where abouts in the car I'd find the wiring to which I'd have to connect the LED lights. Most of the info I can find relates to footwell lighting which comes on when the doors are opened, but I want mine to be on when the head lights are on i.e at night.
Any ideas?
I would imagine you could wire it into the instrument illumination the same as if you were fitting a W8 light, in which case you run a wire to the back of the headlight switch and the other to an earth. That should then also allow you to dim the lights with the rest of the lighting.
kevlpool24
02-02-2009, 22:47
white clip snapped on mine result new mastercylinder as pushrod that goes to pedal came too far
not too expensive
lee_woollett
07-02-2009, 19:52
my wife managed to get stuck with my leon a few times, she pressed the clutch down and the peddle has stuck to the floor so i thought the worst (especially the first time when the police had to push the car off the road as it was causing a blockage), when i looked at the peddle, it seemed that the pedal rubber had managed to lodge itself against a piece of plastic where the pedal depresses into the floor, also she said that she couldn't select any gear (women drivers). I grabbed the pedal and pulled it up to its normal position and the clutch worked normal again. She has managed to do this a couple of times since.
I also noticed the other day that when i was stuck in traffic, with my foot down on the clutch, the engine sounded a bit strange, it turned out that the clutch wasn't fully disengaged and when i took my foot off the clutch, it only returned half way to its normal position, so i lifted it again and it worked fine again. I think i need to take a look at the fluid levels to see if it needs filling but i can't feel any fluids in the footwell so i dont think its leaking anything.
Any ideas as to what this can be?
Markyboyt
08-02-2009, 13:43
I also noticed the other day that when i was stuck in traffic, with my foot down on the clutch, the engine sounded a bit strange, it turned out that the clutch wasn't fully disengaged and when i took my foot off the clutch, it only returned half way to its normal position, so i lifted it again and it worked fine again. I think i need to take a look at the fluid levels to see if it needs filling but i can't feel any fluids in the footwell so i dont think its leaking anything.
Any ideas as to what this can be?
So the pedal only returned half way and the clutch was still partially disengaged so was slipping, you pulled the pedal up and it was ok?
Initially I thought the release bearing in the gearbox may have been sticking so not springing the clutch out fully but that wouldnt explain pulling the clutch pedal up to full and it being ok, maybe something on the pedal itself is tight or jamming up a bit?
lee_woollett
08-02-2009, 18:01
the clutch pedal does squeak a bit when being depressed, i wonder if the pedal assembly is bent or something or a bush it pivots on is knackered, i think once the snow has cleared up and its a bit warmer i'll have to have a good look at it. its just a bit of an annoyance at the minute
Big Ejit
08-02-2009, 20:17
Are there any warning signs before the white clip breaks? (Creaking or clicking?)
My clutch pedal starts to creak at the bottom of the travel after 20 to 30 minutes of driving in traffic. Please don't say this is what happens before it goes ping-thunk....
turbomin
09-02-2009, 10:23
Mine broke and gave no warning, only a crunching sound as it broke and i stalled it backing onto the drive. I seam welded it back together - it's now much stronger than new :)
something unfortunate to look forward to then!!! still i guess its best to be prepared!
although i have read peoples explinations of why this happens, has anyone got any pictures of these components, so i properly understand what im looking for at a quick glance?
turbomin
10-02-2009, 11:55
I will see if i can dig out a photo. Although if you contort yourself into the drivers foot well armed with a torch and follow the clutch pedal up you'll see where it meets the master cylinder push rod going forwards, this is where it fails.
The bit that breaks is behind the plastic clip so its not even easy to see if the welds have already failed alerting you that the whole lot will give way sooner or later.
Very detailed guide:
http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/p/18012/1028565.aspx#1028565
(Its for a Golf4 but exactly the same parts)
turbomin
11-02-2009, 10:04
Thanks for the link, i couldn't find any pics but all looks scarily familiar!
wisejason
11-02-2009, 12:23
I've had a similar problem... Parked the car up the other night and when I got back in the next day the clutch pedal was on the floor. So I hooked it up with my foot and since then it has not done it again. I wonder if it is simply something to do with the cold weather or the beginnings of a more serious issue?
lee_woollett
11-02-2009, 13:50
i've only noticied it when its been cold, when the weather is warm it doesn't seem to happen. I wonder if its to do with old fluid as the clutch is hydraulic. Where is the reservoir for the clutch? I've not been able to locate it. I'm thinking of checking it to see if it needs a top up or maybe get it drained and put some new fluid in.
Markyboyt
11-02-2009, 20:41
i've only noticied it when its been cold, when the weather is warm it doesn't seem to happen. I wonder if its to do with old fluid as the clutch is hydraulic. Where is the reservoir for the clutch? I've not been able to locate it. I'm thinking of checking it to see if it needs a top up or maybe get it drained and put some new fluid in.
It runs off the brake fluid reservoir
turbomin
12-02-2009, 08:45
I've had a similar problem... Parked the car up the other night and when I got back in the next day the clutch pedal was on the floor. So I hooked it up with my foot and since then it has not done it again. I wonder if it is simply something to do with the cold weather or the beginnings of a more serious issue?
It only ever happened to my Leon when it was cold and the Mrs was driving :rolleyes: It only ever happened once and never caused a problem since... unless it was a sign that the pedal was about to break
wisejason
12-02-2009, 09:30
It only ever happened to my Leon when it was cold and the Mrs was driving :rolleyes: It only ever happened once and never caused a problem since... unless it was a sign that the pedal was about to break
... I think it was cause I'd done a very short trip and when I turned the car off I had the clutch down putting the car into reverse (parking on a hill). Not done it since, so I've put it down to on of those strange things that happen in cold weather.
Interestingly this has just happened on my Cupra R. However mine happened at the end of a long trip (100 miles). Pulled the pedal back up manually and it worked fine after that. Did the same trip back again and pedal was fine again until 2 miles from home and happened again once. Again pulled pedal up manually and it worked fine, any ideas?
just checked and no sign of a plastic clip in the footwell or any fluid (haven't checked the fluid level in the engine bay as yet!)
i cant belave this i was just comeing up the road to pull in my drive just now and bang clutch pedal gone to the floor and a plastic white clip on the floor! for f*** sake
Just had the same problem with mine got a new clutch pedal and car works fine....but now the pedal is higher then the break and accelorater pedals any body got any ideas????
Gaaah, I hate my clutch at the moment. [:@] Took me 10 mins to get my car into gear yesterday and the pedal is sitting very low... Seems to be ok once I get it in gear and drive for about 10mins, improves and then fine.
Just spoken to a mechanic and think it may be the master/slave cylinder leaking and air getting into the hydraulic fluid...
Any thoughts?
Gaaah, I hate my clutch at the moment. [:@] Took me 10 mins to get my car into gear yesterday and the pedal is sitting very low... Seems to be ok once I get it in gear and drive for about 10mins, improves and then fine.
Just spoken to a mechanic and think it may be the master/slave cylinder leaking and air getting into the hydraulic fluid...
Any thoughts?
Should have added that this is only a problem when it's been left a few hours and seems to be much worse when it's cold!
I have experienced this "clutch in the floor" situation just few days ago :D. I was in portsmouth, 100 miles away from home, it was almost 10pm. I was quite scared at the start but i was lucky enough that i have booked a diagnostic check with JKM in portsmouth next day. All was sorted in just about 2 hours. Plastic clip snapped. Driving without a clutch was definietly the best part of the evening :D.
Plastic clutch switch £2, labour £50 ^^
hey gentalmen, this has just happened me a few moments ago, the two spot welds have cracked and the actuator on the master cylinder has forced its way threw, however, the master cylinder itself does not look bent but it is very wobbely. is this normal, if so do i just need a new pedal and clip?
Just had the same problem with mine got a new clutch pedal and car works fine....but now the pedal is higher then the break and accelorater pedals any body got any ideas????
any one dnt be shy to help me!!!!:cry:
whats up with yours mate?
whats up with yours mate?
Well had the same problem as u but i got a new clutch pedal fitted with new clip and car drives fine....but the pedal is higher then the break and accelorater pedals and cant find anywhere to ajust the clutch pedal!!!
are u sure the system is bleed correctly, i dont the the system is adjustable as it is hydrolic, on my car anyway. a slightly higher clutch pedal can often be a sign that its on the way out, was it not like this previously to having the new pedal fitted?
are u sure the system is bleed correctly, i dont the the system is adjustable as it is, on my car anyway. a slightly higher clutch pedal can often be a sign that its on the way out, was it not like this previously to having the new pedal fitted?
my pedal was equal before the new one went in...and i dnt knw if it has been bled! if it hasnt is that what needs to be done?? ( mine is a hydrolic clutch aswell)
if you look from the front of your car past the engine to the bulkhead on the left and side you have your brake fluid resevoir, from it there is a short black hose going to your clutch MASTER cylinder which is secures with 2x 6mm allen key bolds, and is passing threw the bulkhead to your clutch pedal, although it may seem to be up to high this is definatly it. if u follow the steel fluid like from it the back of your engine towards the gearbox you will see were it joins your clutch SLAVE cylinder, beside were the hydrolic line meets the slave cylinder there is an 11mm hollow bolt with a nipple on the end covered with a black rubber cap, much like the bleed nipple on a brake caliper
while the engine is running, have some depress the clutch several times then hold it down firmly.
at this point you should, LOOSEN, do not remove, the bleed nipple, aprox. 1 turbo until some air/fluid comes out, wait a few seconds then tighting, have the person operating the pedal repeat the pumping and holding down of the pedal with you repeating the bleeding until there is a constant discharge from the nipple. insure that you top up the brake resevoir with enough fluid for the operation and cheak after. inspect and road test,
if the nipple takes any effort at all to open, BEWARE it is tapped into a metal ovular bung in a plastic case and to much force will turn the ovular loob and crack the slave cylinder. although this may be a neccessary evil to get the job done
if you look from the front of your car past the engine to the bulkhead on the left and side you have your brake fluid resevoir, from it there is a short black hose going to your clutch MASTER cylinder which is secures with 2x 6mm allen key bolds, and is passing threw the bulkhead to your clutch pedal, although it may seem to be up to high this is definatly it. if u follow the steel fluid like from it the back of your engine towards the gearbox you will see were it joins your clutch SLAVE cylinder, beside were the hydrolic line meets the slave cylinder there is an 11mm hollow bolt with a nipple on the end covered with a black rubber cap, much like the bleed nipple on a brake caliper
while the engine is running, have some depress the clutch several times then hold it down firmly.
at this point you should, LOOSEN, do not remove, the bleed nipple, aprox. 1 turbo until some air/fluid comes out, wait a few seconds then tighting, have the person operating the pedal repeat the pumping and holding down of the pedal with you repeating the bleeding until there is a constant discharge from the nipple. insure that you top up the brake resevoir with enough fluid for the operation and cheak after. inspect and road test,
if the nipple takes any effort at all to open, BEWARE it is tapped into a metal ovular bung in a plastic case and to much force will turn the ovular loob and crack the slave cylinder. although this may be a neccessary evil to get the job done
Kool mate thanks for that...i will try it next week as my car is getting a full respary in candy white!!:clap::funk:
sounds great, mine was done b4 i got it but have a bit of a scratch on on of the wings, its very hard to notice but would like to have the whole car done again, just so i knew it was flawless and get one of the bra's for the front to keep the stone chips away
sounds great, mine was done b4 i got it but have a bit of a scratch on on of the wings, its very hard to notice but would like to have the whole car done again, just so i knew it was flawless and get one of the bra's for the front to keep the stone chips away
I've got a good deal £750 for a full respray in and colour!!! i think i might get one of them bra's for my leon.
Gaaah, I hate my clutch at the moment. [:@] Took me 10 mins to get my car into gear yesterday and the pedal is sitting very low... Seems to be ok once I get it in gear and drive for about 10mins, improves and then fine.
Just spoken to a mechanic and think it may be the master/slave cylinder leaking and air getting into the hydraulic fluid...
Any thoughts?
All fixed now, turned out to be a knackered master cylinder... :( But at least it's all good now and back to it's best! :)
Avant4me
07-05-2009, 19:38
I have just had the 4th Clutch master cylinder fitted to my LC, must be some kind of record now.
ive had this problem mate when driving home from picking my misses up from work and snap in the middle of road in traffic and could do nother apart from push onto side of road lol its usualy the plastic clip [white]. or the flap brakes lose and allows clip to snap or brake free get it welded and ur on ur way
hope this helps mate
godber225r
14-05-2009, 20:05
I had the clutch pedal clicking syndrome! i did do a thread about it a few months ago. It was very annoying :rifle:
All i did was put a big blob of grease on a fitch brush and grease the ball on the end of the slave cylinder that attaches to the pedal and the spring.
The noise went immediatly!!! and its not returned!!!:)
So far so good!
cupra_gaz
08-09-2009, 14:26
hi a had this problem before with my golf sunk to the floor clips snapped ,bought clips and still sunk to the floor ,turned out it wasa weld on the pedal that had snapped which let the pedal move further than it should which in turn broke the bracket ,look for that as clutch its self seems a bit much ,worth a look any way because that was what happened to me ,got a guy to weld it for 20 quid
Just happened to me, but i have oil pi55in out the bottom of my car! I couldn't really see where it was comin from. The good ol AA bloke said it could be slave cylinder, is this external or internal?
Easy fix for the known pdeal problem, once the plate has snapped off you can use a m10 nut/bolt and m8 nut/bolt to permanantly fix this,
As you look at the top of the pedal you will see a 10mm hole at a vertical angle, put the m10 bolt through the hole from the top and bolt the nut tight so it holds on the metal plate, This will stop the plunger on the master cylinder shooting through the pedal,
Now, if left like this, when you take your foot off the pedal the plunger fall out as the pedal returns too high, Get the m8 bolt and thread the nut half way down the bolt, ( you will need two m8 nuts)
In the pedal box braket above the pedal you will see a 8mm hole, put the bolt through this hole so the head of the bolt is facing the pedal, put the nut on the other side, with the two nuts on this bolt you can adjust how far the pedal returns. adjust this until the plunger no longer falls out,
Job done,
Hope that helps guys, I'm jst looking for an LCR and will be keeping these nuts and bolt in the tool kit.
ET CUPRA
20-09-2009, 18:24
Hi people.
Clutch pedal fell flat to the floor last night. when the AA bloke eventually showed up, he said the 'release bearing' had gone. He put about a litre of brake fluid in the master cylinder which just pumped straight out on to the floor! Master cylinder has only recently been done, so do you think it IS the release bearing, or is there a possibility this could be a 'white plastic clip' scenario?!!
Have done 92k on original clutch, so perhaps I'd do just as well to get a new one anyway.
Markyboyt
20-09-2009, 18:27
Hi people.
Clutch pedal fell flat to the floor last night. when the AA bloke eventually showed up, he said the 'release bearing' had gone. He put about a litre of brake fluid in the master cylinder which just pumped straight out on to the floor! Master cylinder has only recently been done, so do you think it IS the release bearing, or is there a possibility this could be a 'white plastic clip' scenario?!!
Have done 92k on original clutch, so perhaps I'd do just as well to get a new one anyway.
if the fluids pumping through then its a hydraulic leak, if its leaking from the gearbox then is more than likely the slave cylinder which is gearbox out I believe
ET CUPRA
20-09-2009, 21:44
if the fluids pumping through then its a hydraulic leak, if its leaking from the gearbox then is more than likely the slave cylinder which is gearbox out I believe
Taking it to the garage in the morn so hopefully they can shed some light on the matter. The AA guy did say the gearbox would have to come out but not sure what he was on about with the release bearing:shrug:
Gordy T20
21-09-2009, 14:36
Same thing happened to me, i think it was the small metal clip that broke on mine, AA guy but a bolt and nut so i could get it to a garage, does anyone know how much it is to fix AA guy said a new peddle was needed?? And should i go to a seat garage or non dealer one??
legoman_0
18-01-2010, 16:15
Mine went The day before Xmas eve doing my Xmas shopping. The aa guy knew what it was straight away said it was a common problem, he put a plastic clip on their off a ford that got me home till I got to tesco an bang the clip broke for the second time in the same day. Next day seen that hole in the peddle went to halfords an did what daveRb5 did an just like new, better than tha 2mm price of metal holding it :)
Paul B2010
24-01-2010, 23:18
My clutch dropped to floor a while ago, November, just after i bought it. Anyway, a foot behind it to lift it back up and it was back to norm. Its happened thrice since then. Low and behold, in December, a strange white clip turned up on the floor, but clutch fine. I kept the white clip in the ashtray. And only now, have I put two and two together!! Guess where I'll be taking a peek tmoz dinner!!
Question: This M10/M8 nut and bolt solution. What length of bolts are required? I'm assuming the M10/8 is the width. I'll be feeling for any leaks down there too! The costs are shooting up if the slave, so here's hoping!
legoman_0
25-01-2010, 09:30
I think I used an m8 either one will fit but you will prob have to take the spring out behind the pedal or plunger thing will keep slipping out, hard to describe nut you will when you get under their lol
Paul B2010
25-01-2010, 20:54
Cheers legoman. I'm paranoid when driving now with this clutch pedal thingymebob! I know that clip shouldn't be in my ashtray for sure! I prefer dabblin with cars in the summer to be honest with you!! Its damn cold out there, ha! Needs must! I wouldn't mind, i came on here to figure my suspension mod out. Front left sping snapped three week ago! What a nice welcome to the world of Seat!!
legoman_0
26-01-2010, 00:14
yea I was to but it's pretty solid when you put tha bolt in wouldn't keep it as a perm thing tho gotta get a new one Friday off here for £35 I think. Not much luck with it like me lol. I hit a house brick on the road snapped the splitter an it managed to go through the vent an hit the gearbox, Over Xmas I had an ignition coil go while doing my Xmas shopping an had to get home on 3 cylinders then the clutch pedal snapped 2days later then my outer cv joint had went an now got my mot lol. I still love it though wouldn't change it for anything. Everone is really good on here though to be fair anything you want to know just find a thread or ask a question someone will answer
legoman_0
26-01-2010, 00:19
Anwer to ur question though yea it's the width an it was either 3/4 or 1" long
Paul B2010
26-01-2010, 00:22
Brill. Thanks for the info. Sounds like you've had more fun than I have, with your car, to date, ha!
legoman_0
26-01-2010, 00:29
It seems tha everytime I got abit of cash to splash out on mods something goes wrong lol, hope you don't have the same an sure you will come to love urs lol
BUBBA808
08-05-2011, 00:05
bringing up a very old thread...i had problems with my clutch pedal receding to the floor, ended up changing the master and slave cylinder, slave cylinder was the fault! This maybe the 3rd syncro problem as clutch has not engaged properly!
adam852011
16-06-2011, 21:30
hi all. i am a newbie. i have just gone out and got myself a seat cupra r. the car is a joy to drive up until now. the car when driving crunches into 2nd gear only. could this be a syncro problem?
also today i was driving down the road and come to the junction and pushed in the clutch and the peddle stayed on the floor and car carried on driving like i hadnt pressed the clutch. i managed to stall it. it then wudnt change gear and i cudnt understand why as the clutch was pressed down. i then realised the peddle wasnt coming back up so i pulled it up with my hands. it then engaged into gear and off i went. i got 5mins down the road before it did it again so i just pulled it back up with my hands. i then went andbles the clutch out took car out seemed ok and thenpulling back onto street pressed clutch in and stayed on floor again. i have checked the level and its not loosing fluid. i have checked to see if its all dry near peddle andaroundthat area andit is. i sat pressing the peddle when car was turned off and my mate waslooking for leaksand he said it sounds like when i press peddle down its sucking air in. i rung the guy i got it off and he said its just had a slave cylinder. what can it be? can anyone help. i darent takemy kids in the car while its like this. i have just left it parked up. i have tried n tried to get it to stick down but it only does it when driving and car is on. all thoughts and suggestions will be much appreciated.
maany thanks adam
adam852011
16-06-2011, 21:39
also i have just noticed that when i looked for leaks threw the passenger side wheel there a part on the gearbox that seams to have something missing and looks to be leaking oili think ever so slightly. you can see a black circular sealand also bearings of sumsort. anyone know whats meant to be there?
thanks
Chrissy20vt
17-06-2011, 09:25
hi all. i am a newbie. i have just gone out and got myself a seat cupra r. the car is a joy to drive up until now. the car when driving crunches into 2nd gear only. could this be a syncro problem?
also today i was driving down the road and come to the junction and pushed in the clutch and the peddle stayed on the floor and car carried on driving like i hadnt pressed the clutch. i managed to stall it. it then wudnt change gear and i cudnt understand why as the clutch was pressed down. i then realised the peddle wasnt coming back up so i pulled it up with my hands. it then engaged into gear and off i went. i got 5mins down the road before it did it again so i just pulled it back up with my hands. i then went andbles the clutch out took car out seemed ok and thenpulling back onto street pressed clutch in and stayed on floor again. i have checked the level and its not loosing fluid. i have checked to see if its all dry near peddle andaroundthat area andit is. i sat pressing the peddle when car was turned off and my mate waslooking for leaksand he said it sounds like when i press peddle down its sucking air in. i rung the guy i got it off and he said its just had a slave cylinder. what can it be? can anyone help. i darent takemy kids in the car while its like this. i have just left it parked up. i have tried n tried to get it to stick down but it only does it when driving and car is on. all thoughts and suggestions will be much appreciated.
maany thanks adam
My experience last moth was exactly the same, pedal to the floor, would start as if it was in gear,
Mine stunk of clutch burn though, Alas it was my clutch nackered - Id say if its a cylinder your lucky, Clutch was in total for me £575 supplied and fitted, and it does not come cheaper than that including the flywheel that will be needed also.
Chrissy
junglist_matty
20-06-2011, 09:47
Woohoo... My clutch pedal broke on the weekend :) Happy days!!!
Are Seat secretly French???
adam852011
20-06-2011, 16:25
turns out it was the master cylinder after all so have changed that and now ok. now just need to figure out why it crunches into 2nd gear if drove fast, when driving slow its fine. has anyone got any ideas what this could be? thanks
Hi Just has thhis problem twice within 10000 miles. first time it was the master cylinder.
second time it was the pedal fault. the RAC guy did a temporary fix by putting a bolt and nut through the box on the pedal to stop the master cylinder rod going through, he also bolted the pedal on to the housing.
i got a new pedal and clip, did the fix myself with all the information on the posts. Thank you very Much.
I have now noticed the clutch pedal is sticking. not springing up when in first gear. Any idea what the problem is. Also what kind of clutch fluid should i put in as i released the bleed nipple to allow the rod to go back so i can put the white clip on which wasnt easy. does it go in the same resovoir as the break fluid. Mine is a Seat Toledo 1.9tdi x reg
first of all hi there to all i have the cupra1.8t last night clutch pedal slamed to the floor had to force it back up it bent the rod and the clip is no were to be seen.ive been told that if you cant push the rod in with engine started then the clutch is pooped is this true or will it be the master cyclinder thats pooped?
Does anybody know the part numbers for the clutch pedal and the little black piece of plastic that breaks when the metal bit pops off the pedal? My wife's Y reg Cupra has the pedal on the floor after this happening last night.