The snot is still up E.J Classics, Eddie is now doing my splitter. I was tempted to do this myself but what he can do in 4 hours would probably take me all day so instead I can do some overtime in work and pay for it and have a bit of pocket money for myself.
Here's some progress photos of the splitter;
Here's some progress photos of the splitter;
Bit of an update on the splitter, it's now made in aluminium and all that is left now is how to make it quick realise and front supports, the bumper clips are fitted which will allow the bumper to pull straight off now.
I'm torn with what colour to spray the air dam in, it's either black or kiwi
I am siding with kiwi but I know if it was black it would be easier to maintain.
I'm torn with what colour to spray the air dam in, it's either black or kiwi
I am siding with kiwi but I know if it was black it would be easier to maintain.
Update on the dry sump front,
I had sent my Spiess adaptor plate to Saxon Motorsport to double check it'll fit my block, I had noticed that one of the holes had been threaded but thought it would be a case of boring the hole out a little and selecting a different thread to tap it again and the amount of sealant that was used on the face of the plate (block side). The plate was like that because it looked to by originally a plate for an 8v Spiess block and then it was altered to suit a 16v block.
Anyway Saxon were not happy to use it on my engine and with this blow up we both don't want anything other than the correct parts! So back to the drawing board where after a few emails I got a contact phone number for a certain Mike Callaghan..... Had a very good chat with him and he's a very helpful bloke, turned out he use to live and work in Wales for 2 years and his mate was from near me. Mad how small the world can be sometimes! Asked him about the F3 dry sump parts and if he still had any there.... he did just one still on a block that he was going to use on a turbo build but changed to a multi stage pump, so agreed a price for the plate & pump because he didn't want to split them and 5 days later the parts are on my dining table!
Much prefer this design because it included the oil filter where the Spiess plate didn't have this and the filter would need to be located else where.
Mike Callaghan's Pump vs Spiess Pump (both are Titan pumps)
The drive gear on the pump from Mike Callaghan is made of bass where the other Spiess pump looks to be steel or the same material had the intermediate shift. The idea of the bass gear is if the pump jams or something gets stuck in the gears the bass gear will be destroyed instead of both of the gears, the gear on the pump is much easier to change than the shaft (read on).
Now the intermediate shaft, you may remember from my previous posts that the gear on the shaft is very worn and no good. I tired looking for the actual gear but had no joy unless I spend big money on a one off gear to be made and then remove the damaged gear and heat the replacement on, an email to Titan and they pointed me in the right direction. Originally these pumps were designed for the BDA & Lotus Twin Cam engine so a jackshaft from one of these engines will have the gear I need on my shaft. A little google search and I found Burton Performance supply both the shafts the BDA was £150, Lotus Twin Cam £98, I've purchased the Lotus jackshaft and Im going to get the shaft machined to get the gear off and then have it bored out and heated onto my intermediate shaft..... Job Done!
This is the Lotus shaft at the moment, will get in touch with my mate on the weekend to do the machining work.
I had sent my Spiess adaptor plate to Saxon Motorsport to double check it'll fit my block, I had noticed that one of the holes had been threaded but thought it would be a case of boring the hole out a little and selecting a different thread to tap it again and the amount of sealant that was used on the face of the plate (block side). The plate was like that because it looked to by originally a plate for an 8v Spiess block and then it was altered to suit a 16v block.
Anyway Saxon were not happy to use it on my engine and with this blow up we both don't want anything other than the correct parts! So back to the drawing board where after a few emails I got a contact phone number for a certain Mike Callaghan..... Had a very good chat with him and he's a very helpful bloke, turned out he use to live and work in Wales for 2 years and his mate was from near me. Mad how small the world can be sometimes! Asked him about the F3 dry sump parts and if he still had any there.... he did just one still on a block that he was going to use on a turbo build but changed to a multi stage pump, so agreed a price for the plate & pump because he didn't want to split them and 5 days later the parts are on my dining table!
Much prefer this design because it included the oil filter where the Spiess plate didn't have this and the filter would need to be located else where.
Mike Callaghan's Pump vs Spiess Pump (both are Titan pumps)
The drive gear on the pump from Mike Callaghan is made of bass where the other Spiess pump looks to be steel or the same material had the intermediate shift. The idea of the bass gear is if the pump jams or something gets stuck in the gears the bass gear will be destroyed instead of both of the gears, the gear on the pump is much easier to change than the shaft (read on).
Now the intermediate shaft, you may remember from my previous posts that the gear on the shaft is very worn and no good. I tired looking for the actual gear but had no joy unless I spend big money on a one off gear to be made and then remove the damaged gear and heat the replacement on, an email to Titan and they pointed me in the right direction. Originally these pumps were designed for the BDA & Lotus Twin Cam engine so a jackshaft from one of these engines will have the gear I need on my shaft. A little google search and I found Burton Performance supply both the shafts the BDA was £150, Lotus Twin Cam £98, I've purchased the Lotus jackshaft and Im going to get the shaft machined to get the gear off and then have it bored out and heated onto my intermediate shaft..... Job Done!
This is the Lotus shaft at the moment, will get in touch with my mate on the weekend to do the machining work.
I had these photos for a while but been too busy with work and family to get them posted up, here's an update on the splitter and the fittings.
1/4 turn bolts from Pro-Bolts
1/4 turn bolts from Pro-Bolts
I managed to get hold of a drive gear for the F3 style pump and had the old damaged one heated off and a new one fitted..... pressed the bearing back on and now I'm waiting on the new pump to arrive so I can get it down to Saxon Motorsport along with a few other bits so they can finally rebuild my engine.
I can't wait to see it at Combe either, will mean it's all finished then..... the first track day will be either at Combe, Llandow or Pembrey, which ever track I can get one first.
Aaron I'm just doing the splitter, no flat floor really may have to fit a BTCC style rear spoiler. Been advised on fitting a rear spoiler to make it more aero balanced but Saxon Motorsport seems to think I don't need one so going to give it a go myself and if I have a near miss then I will look into it. Already found the company that makes all the BTCC kits and sell the carbon fibre spoilers
Aaron I'm just doing the splitter, no flat floor really may have to fit a BTCC style rear spoiler. Been advised on fitting a rear spoiler to make it more aero balanced but Saxon Motorsport seems to think I don't need one so going to give it a go myself and if I have a near miss then I will look into it. Already found the company that makes all the BTCC kits and sell the carbon fibre spoilers
Ordered a set of ball joints extensions and rose jointed track rod ends from US of A via Usually Sideways Rally Team.
So once I get the Ibiza back from E.J Classics and Old School Engineering has sprayed the engine bay I will get the extension welded to my uprights in between fitting and connecting the dash up.
So once I get the Ibiza back from E.J Classics and Old School Engineering has sprayed the engine bay I will get the extension welded to my uprights in between fitting and connecting the dash up.
If you know what Mk Golf shares the same track rod ends as the Mk3 Ibiza then go onto Usually Sideways site and you should find them
Bit of a update from EJ Classics,
My roll cage alteration is now finished, I wanted to change the front half of the car to go behind the dash for 2 reasons.... To suit the carbon fibre dash & the other is because the bar is close to the steering wheel.
Then Eddie fitted my dash, he noticed where the clock/Dash 2 goes it wouldn't be centre to the steering wheel since it is out of a Toledo orginally... he went to trim the same off before ends but then noticed again the clocks wouldn't be centre to the steering wheel. After a few measurement it turns out the drivers side is stop on and the passenger side is too wide so trimmed that side down and made a new end plate.
The dash is bolted on by 3 bolts, one either side and then one in the centre so will be easy to remove to. Will paint the end plates in a Matt Black to reduce glare.
From previous photos and it was commented on Club GTi that the splitter was angled, this turned out to actually be level but the aluminium lip on the splitter was pulling the ends up. We put it on the table removed the lip and the board levelled out. So the lip will now be modified to stop this from happening. The front grille panel has been fitted just need the air duct on the near side cut out now.
My roll cage alteration is now finished, I wanted to change the front half of the car to go behind the dash for 2 reasons.... To suit the carbon fibre dash & the other is because the bar is close to the steering wheel.
Then Eddie fitted my dash, he noticed where the clock/Dash 2 goes it wouldn't be centre to the steering wheel since it is out of a Toledo orginally... he went to trim the same off before ends but then noticed again the clocks wouldn't be centre to the steering wheel. After a few measurement it turns out the drivers side is stop on and the passenger side is too wide so trimmed that side down and made a new end plate.
The dash is bolted on by 3 bolts, one either side and then one in the centre so will be easy to remove to. Will paint the end plates in a Matt Black to reduce glare.
From previous photos and it was commented on Club GTi that the splitter was angled, this turned out to actually be level but the aluminium lip on the splitter was pulling the ends up. We put it on the table removed the lip and the board levelled out. So the lip will now be modified to stop this from happening. The front grille panel has been fitted just need the air duct on the near side cut out now.
From previous posts with the load corner becoming positive in camber, it's got to be either the "spacer plate" I'm using on the ball joint or my sold top mounts. Since somehow the camber setting will go back to the negative set camber I don't think it's the top mounts moving somehow so the ball joint area is my first attempt to fix this problem.
Ball joint extensions and toe rod ends from so a order was placed to Usually Sideways in the US of A along with some bass gearbox selector plate bushes.
Ball joint extensions and toe rod ends from so a order was placed to Usually Sideways in the US of A along with some bass gearbox selector plate bushes.
Well Eddie @ E.J. Classics has finished the work I wanted done, collected the snot today to move up to OSE to have the engine bay, air dam & grille painted but foolish me I haven't taken any photos of the finished product before the painting.
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