Breaking in techniques - Please read the first 2 pages before making assumptions

IbizaAlex

AKS tuning
May 11, 2008
532
0
Bedford
Yep, run it disconnected. I was running a boost controller on mine which I wound up a little as the miles cracked on.
 

ibiza_95

1.8T MK2 Conversion
just to revive this for when i run mine in :)
quoted from IbizaAlex

Using Millers running in oil, run the car to operating temp, then allow to cool. First 5 mins are run at 1500 rpm to circulate the oil through the turbo etc.
I should prime the engine to get oil pressure to everything, as in with the injectors and coilpacks unplugged, until i see oil pressure

Then run the engine with the car stationary for 5 minutes at around 1500rpm to get everything lubed up, and then leave it to cool down.


Next warm the car up and drive for 20 miles. Give the car full throttle, but only rev to the peak torque area. Do this through all gears. Just run actuator pressure. Drop oil and filter the fill with fresh running in oil.

What rpm would you recommend to stay below for this period?? and do i achieve actuator pressure by removing the N75 valve?? Do this for 20 miles, then dump the run in oil, and re fill with more run in oil and a clean filter...

Run in the engine for the next 300 to 400 miles driving it hard, but still on actuator pressure. Drop oil and fill with fully synthetic comp oil. Up the boost and enjoy.

Should this be a case of driving as in the previous step, with harsh acc and engine braking with load applied frequently??

Sorry for trying to make it as simple to understand as possible, but after spending thousands making the engine solid id like to make it run in to be 100% spot on :D

Thanks
 

IbizaAlex

AKS tuning
May 11, 2008
532
0
Bedford
Using Millers running in oil, run the car to operating temp, then allow to cool. First 5 mins are run at 1500 rpm to circulate the oil through the turbo etc.
I should prime the engine to get oil pressure to everything, as in with the injectors and coilpacks unplugged, until i see oil pressure - Yep. Also gets oil primed to the turbo. Its also worth filling the oil filter up with oil before you fitted.

Then run the engine with the car stationary for 5 minutes at around 1500rpm to get everything lubed up, and then leave it to cool down.
- Just get it to temp and check for leaks and make sure the water has fully made its way round.

Next warm the car up and drive for 20 miles. Give the car full throttle, but only rev to the peak torque area. Do this through all gears. Just run actuator pressure. Drop oil and filter the fill with fresh running in oil.

What rpm would you recommend to stay below for this period?? and do i achieve actuator pressure by removing the N75 valve?? Do this for 20 miles, then dump the run in oil, and re fill with more run in oil and a clean filter... - Dont really need to stick to a certain rev range. You will feel the car get to the point where it wants to shoot off. Dont remove the N75, just inplug the electrical connector

Run in the engine for the next 300 to 400 miles driving it hard, but still on actuator pressure. Drop oil and fill with fully synthetic comp oil. Up the boost and enjoy.

Should this be a case of driving as in the previous step, with harsh acc and engine braking with load applied frequently?? - Yep, but with increased revs and some runs up to redline area.
 

ibiza_95

1.8T MK2 Conversion
well that dreaded time has come to run the engine in... ive done step one and warmed it up, now coming to actually driving it, will unplugging the N75 mean that the engine runs actuator pressure on an aftermarket ecu? i understand it will on oem ecu but just want to confirm it will on an aftermarket model, and possibly what pressure i should be seeing for a GT2871RS
Thankings :)
 

m0rk

sarcasm comes free
Staff member
May 19, 2001
27,787
33
Clanfield, UK
Could you set a running in low boost map on the ECU? Or do you not have access to it to program?
 

joehirth

Rate me up baby
Apr 19, 2010
1,896
3
Woking, Surrey
www.facebook.com
i have the ability physically but i dont actually know how to do this so i dont really want to be fannying with the ecu... ive got the software but its MBE using easimap so i wouldnt like to be touching too much when im not 100% sure

Is the N75 your only boost controller? Surely the aftermarket ECU would be mapped to use the N75 as a boost controller, if not then basically switch off your after market boost controller. Alternatively (someone will have to say if this is right) but could you not just pull off the vacuum pipe to the actuator, wouldn't it just run crack pressure then?
 

IbizaAlex

AKS tuning
May 11, 2008
532
0
Bedford
Alternatively (someone will have to say if this is right) but could you not just pull off the vacuum pipe to the actuator, wouldn't it just run crack pressure then?

This will give bad results. You will get boost and lots of it!

Just run with a pipe going from the charge pipe to the actuator.
 
Jan 8, 2007
2,958
1
Wiltshire
Nice info in this thread. I ran mine in last night as follows, with a couple of points I'd like to get people's opinions on...

1. The car was started ~5 minutes after all fluids were filled and left to idle for 10 minutes while getting everything up to temperature and letting the coolant fully circulate round the system.

2. Car switched off and left to cool overnight.

3. Car driven normally on 7 mile round trip in order to re-gas the air con and get an MOT (not ideal but necessary)

4. Once returned, car left to warm up for 5 minutes and then driven hard for 20 miles as per the above guide, accelerating for short bursts up the gears and then decelerating back down through the gears to load the engine, in cycles. On average changing at 4,000 RPM, sometimes building it up to 5,000. This was done on reduced boost - 1 bar peak.


My only concern is that it was left to idle for a total of around 20 minutes and driven 7 miles normally before I had the chance to open it up properly, and that the VPower in the tank is nearly 7 months old. Should that be of any concern?

Tonight we'll be dropping the oil for another refill of mineral oil before running it hard for 400-500 miles prior to another change to fully synth oil.
 

joehirth

Rate me up baby
Apr 19, 2010
1,896
3
Woking, Surrey
www.facebook.com
Mine was stopped and started a good few times before I actually was able to run it in, loading on to the back of lorry's for respray etc.

The only real way to tell would be to do a compression test after.
 
Jan 6, 2009
1,102
0
sunny falmouth
Nice info in this thread. I ran mine in last night as follows, with a couple of points I'd like to get people's opinions on...

1. The car was started ~5 minutes after all fluids were filled and left to idle for 10 minutes while getting everything up to temperature and letting the coolant fully circulate round the system.

2. Car switched off and left to cool overnight.

3. Car driven normally on 7 mile round trip in order to re-gas the air con and get an MOT (not ideal but necessary)

4. Once returned, car left to warm up for 5 minutes and then driven hard for 20 miles as per the above guide, accelerating for short bursts up the gears and then decelerating back down through the gears to load the engine, in cycles. On average changing at 4,000 RPM, sometimes building it up to 5,000. This was done on reduced boost - 1 bar peak.


My only concern is that it was left to idle for a total of around 20 minutes and driven 7 miles normally before I had the chance to open it up properly, and that the VPower in the tank is nearly 7 months old. Should that be of any concern?

Tonight we'll be dropping the oil for another refill of mineral oil before running it hard for 400-500 miles prior to another change to fully synth oil.

Did it make any difference that you drove it those 7 miles first as ill need mine moting as soon as its rebult
 
Jan 8, 2007
2,958
1
Wiltshire
Everything appears fine since then having now covered 900 miles but it's still to have the map tweaked with a new power run yet - early days
 

turboholic

CupraPower
Mar 4, 2010
355
0
Bristol/Bath/Frome
sorry if i sound a bit dumb..........when running it in, will it be safe to give it some on my k03s stage 2 map?? surely the air/fuel mixture will be way out and could be harmful to the engine??
 
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