cupra r boot lock

gb

here and there
Feb 27, 2007
1,855
141
portglasgow
the boot lock wont open when u unlock the car with the key or with the fob it makes the noise as if its opening but isnt . could anyone shed any light on the subject. thanks gb
 

RickC

BUILT NOT BOUGHT
Dec 23, 2004
1,621
0
Lincoln
common fault, try a search,

but it can be tightened by adjusting a nut under the plastic trim
 

danielrobertc12

Guest
take the plastric trim off the back of the boot and greece all the plastic parts ,where they slide.up and down
 

lc_allan

Northern Monkey
Sep 15, 2006
3,389
4
the boot lock wont open when u unlock the car with the key or with the fob it makes the noise as if its opening but isnt . could anyone shed any light on the subject. thanks gb

I had this issue about a month or 2 ago. Does it sound like it is engaging when you press the fob?.

What happens is that you may not have unlocked it as normal once with the 2 blips of the unlock button. Say delayed slightly between presses. You've not noticed and lifted up the handle but of course the boot was not opened correctly.

What happend on mine is that when I lifted the handle the first time as above the rotating bar connected to the handle inside moved upwards as normal but stayed upwards. If you use the key all you do is move a black sliding bar left or right. This is no good if the handle has lifted the other bar out of the way. It will never meet the key bar.
No amount of pressing the button will unlock it as all this does is move a sliding bar left and right. It then engages with the moving up part of the handle which you then use to open the boot.

It is difficult to explain but remove your parcel shelf and push the back seats flat. Climb in your boot and undo the two screws that are in the boot grab handle trim. 1 screw in each side. Remove the bulb covers also.

Then gently and very carefully grab the plastic trim at the top near the wiper motor, with hands as wide apart as possible so not to put too much pressure on part of the trim. Start to pull quite firm the trim away from the door. It is stiff and does hurt your fingers. I found it easy to start gently rocking your body to and fro with each pull and gradually increase the pressure. It will creak and you'll hear clips pinging off inside. Don't worry as long as you don't see the trim start to crack or go outta shape then keep pulling.

Once off place all the bits back in the house so not to lose any :). Then sit in boot and close all the doors. Now if you pull up the thin metal bar which looks like a bit of coat hanger, the boot should open. Shut to boot carefully as to not bang your head on the rear screen [:@] I managed this twice :happy:.

Have a play with your fob, opening and closing the boot. You'll start to see after a few goes how it all works etc. Now you can grease the white piston that goes into the tube and you can grease the black slider. However my issue I think was that because the boot is hardly used and has not been from new. The handle when lifted that control the moving black top bar up, was a bit stiff. This is difficult to grease and I think just needs a bit of wear and tear, so just lube it up with WD40 and some vaseline and keep manually moving it for a good number of goes.

It is also good to have someone lift the handle on the outside for you so you can see what should happen after the fob has been pressed.

I left the trim off (it's still off because I'm lazy) and I looked at the mechanism from the rear screen while lifting the handle. You can if it stays up put the key in the lock and open the boot manually while lifting the handle further up. A couple of wiggles and some presses on the fob and I managed to get the handle slider back down.

The main point after repair to use you boot a bit more often. Also do not lift the handle unless you are sure you used the fob correctly and you hear the boot mech move. If in doubt then lock the car and unlock again. Also make sure you cover the white piston part, black slider and the black rotating bar in WD40 and grease/vaseline before putting on the trim.

It might sound daunting but it's easier to see once your in boot with a few fob presses. If you get stuck then give me a shout as my trim is still off and I can still see the mech. I think I will even take some photos of the mech so other people can benefit from seeing whats behind the trim.

I will follow up soon :)
 
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lc_allan

Northern Monkey
Sep 15, 2006
3,389
4
As promised :)

First pic is when the boot lock is open. The green arrows indicate the movement of parts.

Lock1.jpg


The blue circles are the places to lube/grease. Also behind the red circle.
The red circle also shows the handle mechanism the part that lifts up when the handle is lifted from the outside. The top blue circle shows the top sliding bar that connects to this. However if the red circled handle mech is stuck in mid air, as mine was. Then the top blue sliding bar will never meet it and make the final connection, with key or fob use.


The second pic shows the whole picture when the boot is locked. The green arrows again indicate the mechanism movement.

Lock2.jpg
 
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ndrew

Guest
Just lubed mine and fixed it but how did you get the trim back on????
 

roberts189

Guest
Very helpful thanx, i shal also try this the weekend and il letu no if mine was the same problem thanx
 

andycupra

status subject to change
Just lubed mine and fixed it but how did you get the trim back on????

the metal clips are push fit. Make sure if any haev stayed attached to the inside of the boot and not on the inside of the liner to remove these, attach them to the liner then refit.
Not the easiset thin to do.

If you know where to lube and have bendy or small hands, (or lube and a long straw or pipe) then you can do this without taking the trim off fully. Just pull back top middle section and gain acess that way. - still a pain though.
 

lc_allan

Northern Monkey
Sep 15, 2006
3,389
4
For refitting the trim I might as well copy this here:

For trim replacement it's easier with 2 people. I used electrician tape to mark on the opposite side of where each clip is. Open the boot and start at the bottom, loosely place the lower part of the trim over the boot/bumper catch and get into the boot. Have someone on the outside close the boot lid down till it's nearly shut and to keep the force gently applied as your about to push against it. From inside the boot go to the top of the trim, line it up and thump the electrician tape where the clips are. If your lucky they should connect and start to firm up the trim. Now work your way down hitting each clip in place until your at the bottom. Having someone hold the boot almost closed will allow you to force the trim on a lot easier than trying to hold the boot closed yourself
 

andycupra

status subject to change
For refitting the trim I might as well copy this here:

For trim replacement it's easier with 2 people. I used electrician tape to mark on the opposite side of where each clip is. Open the boot and start at the bottom, loosely place the lower part of the trim over the boot/bumper catch and get into the boot. Have someone on the outside close the boot lid down till it's nearly shut and to keep the force gently applied as your about to push against it. From inside the boot go to the top of the trim, line it up and thump the electrician tape where the clips are. If your lucky they should connect and start to firm up the trim. Now work your way down hitting each clip in place until your at the bottom. Having someone hold the boot almost closed will allow you to force the trim on a lot easier than trying to hold the boot closed yourself
lets hope you dont get hand shaped inprints on the outside of the boot ;)
 

--SEAT--IBIZA--

Guest
yeah dude had the same problem only my boot wouldnt lock, i had to tak the plastics off and remove the little bar that helps the c/l lock the boot, i couldnt even lock it with the key it was stif so i just took the bar off until i get it sorted properly, main thin was to get to lock as i leave it all day in a unsercured car park!!
hope you get the problem sorted!
 

big jamie-boy

Guest
thanks for that i have the same problem and the mechanic i have used for years was going to charge me 80 quid to fix it.now i can give it a go myself cheerz
 

Boo

The original wee beastie
Nov 12, 2006
1,868
0
Eastbourne
Same thing happened on my Arosa and its pretty much the same set up. Thanks for the pictures :D
 

grp

Guest
Thanks for the pictures, I just had the same thing happen on my Leon. Turned out to be a jammed solenoid, but it came free after some WD40 and a few taps. I would never have got the trim off without this post - cheers!
 

Gaz_37

Guest
Great thread - sorted mine this weekend - Slider bar would not silde fully across to stop the handle opening mechnism from engaging. Plenty of grease + I had to glue a small bit of plastic onto the slider bar mechnism to ensure it got forced across. Guess the thing was just getting worn out - Not bad on an 03 car. German Quality eh?
 

Faisal

UK's 1st Liquid Yello LCR
May 27, 2008
1,445
0
Most likely at work
so the search feature DOES work!!!!!another successful find!

my boot just decided to act up on me after refitting the trim (after my respray).

however i have a big big obstacle.being the chav that i am,i have a big sound system in the boot that stretches across the back of the whole boot...i wont be able to get into the boot from inside the car either :(
 

lc_allan

Northern Monkey
Sep 15, 2006
3,389
4
Do you think yours is solenoid related or just stuck like mine was?.
If you can lean over enough from the seats without putting to much weight on the boot floor you will be able to undo the screws easily enough. Next part will be trickier but again if you can at least get the top half of the trim away you should be able to reach down and manually pull up the door release. (the long thin coat hanger type bar on the right - Post #5). Should be able to remove the rest from outside the car when the boot it is open. Might need another set of hands or two to keep the lid still :D.
Good Luck :lol:
 
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