Fast Idling problem

[basstard]

as the temp sensor [as said, can't remember what temp sensor it is] isn't working, it doesn't matter what the temp is like for real,,, it doesn't work so it tells the ecu a wrong value which in turn causes a high idle rpm,,,

mate until you don't scan the ecu errors you won't know,,,

 

[MOZ_LC_TDI]

Hi Guy's,
Wow, lots of posts. Thanks for the insight. Mine seems to be showing exactly the same symptoms as yella Beeza.

The stealers have had it for a week and have decided to change the ECU. they ordered it last Saturday but .Yes youv'e guessed it , there are non in stock and it is now on back order, which could mean anything up to a months wait .

they have had it 3 times now since i bought the car 5 weeks ago, but I got their service log sheet since they aquired the car and it showed that they had already looked at the problem a couple of months back when it was supposedly fast idling at 2k rpm but obviously didn't fix it then either.

They have had it fully hooked up to the diagnostics when hot and cold, when the car is showing the symptoms and when not and as far as they can tell the diagnostics are not flagging anything up at all. I assume if it were this coolant/fuel temperature sensor issue that it would flag something up? i don't know what diagnostic system they use but i assume it is VAG com?

Any way, once the ECU is here and they try it we will see. If that don't fix it then they will have to try again . i aint stopping hasseling them till its fixed, as it will be a long time out of warrenty and then it will be at my expense, let the robbing B*****ds pay out for a change . I will keep you informed.

thanks again for the replies.


Moz

 

[MOZ_LC_TDI]

Sorry Lutadormma,
I didn't answer your question, it does it with or without the climate control on. Sometimes it runs with no problem at all ( rarely and seems to be better in damp conditions not sure if this is a red herring). Most of the time it does it after releasing the accellerator pedal when coming to a stop ( as the revs are falling) but sometimes (very rarely) does creep up on its own from idle. It always dissapears if i quickly blip the throttle, until the next prolonged drive and come to a standstill at which point it is up again.

MOZ

 

[basstard]

Moz, does the car pull stronger when this problem is occurring?

 

[MOZ_LC_TDI]

Hi Basstard,

 

[MOZ_LC_TDI]

Hi Basstard,
I suppose it does pull a little stronger but it is only noticible when pulling away at low revs or even fighting it when in slow trafic, i.e it is wanting to pull when I don't want it to, but it isn't noticible for any driving above 30mph when the revs would be above 1200 rpm anyway.

If you can find what the name of teh sensor is that you are aiming at I will mention it to the stealers when it goes in for the ECU, cos if the ECU doesn't fix it then the sensor may help although i would have thought the diagnostics would highlight an iffy sensor?

All the best.

MOZ

 

[Yella Beeza]

Would have thought it would have been better/cheaper to replace a temperature sensor first (whichever one it might be - surely Seat should know) than the ECU. If it is a sensor, how would replacing the ECU sort it?

Update on mine - still goes up to 1500rpm when starting cold (without touching the accelerator pedal), then on blipping it, the idling returns to normal. Once on the move, it idles fine, either before warmed up or hot. It seems something is sticking somewhere rather than a sensor playing up. It hasn't done it when hot recently - problem now only seems to be starting when cold, and I haven't touched anything.

 

[basstard]

can't remember the name of the sensor,,, was too ignorant at the time about these engines

anyway, yes, the ecu diagnostic would definitively show up a sensor fault,,, thing is I would never trust a dealer,,,

can't you find someone in here with vag com who lives near you? there should be a list of volunteers in the vag com section, shouldn't it?

 

[MOZ_LC_TDI]

Yella Beeza/Basstard,
I agree with you both, and changing the temp sensor would be the sensible cheaper option adn i don't trust stealers either but if they feel they have done all of the checks showing no coolant sensor faults and want to change the ECU at their expense who am I to argue. If it doesn't fix it they will have to try again ( may be changing a cheaper coolant sensor ).

They are adamant that the diagnostics are showing no sensor faults.

Mine does exactly as yours and my feeling all along was as though something was sticking ( accellerator position sensor) and was freeing up when I blipped it. My only doubt about this was that a couple of times it has crept up on its own, letting me conclude that on those occasions it can't have stuck on the way back down.

If I still have problems after they have had it in to change the ECU I may well look into finding someone with a VAG com, to see if they are telling me the truth about there being no fault cods flagged.

Regards.

Moz

 

[Yella Beeza]

I'm considering a remap shortly (Stage 1). Now I think a VAG.com check will be done first and show up any faults before the new map is loaded.

If it is a sensor, then it has started playing up on my car at around 600 miles from new. Perhaps Seat's diagnostics don't show up sensor faults like VAG.com - if it's not VAG.com they use. Or the garage don't know how to use the equipment properly.

Wonder if a Skoda or a VW garage could take a look - but will no doubt charge for the privilege.

 

[volvic]

moz, if this problem continues you "should" be entitled to a refund or replacement car to your approval.
someone more legally minded will correct me..
the dealer has sold you a car thats is not in a sellable condition. you have the right to a refund or replacement as seat have had the car many times to try and fix it...

 

[MOZ_LC_TDI]

Hi Volvic,
Thanks for that, I am reasonably happy with my security on this and the option of finally taking it back for a refund or same spec car, especially with it being a main dealer and having the problem from day one ( I have gathered plenty of evidence).

I am going to stick with it for a while as I really like the car, its condition,spec and mileage, the only problem (as far as i know) is this idle and CR*P service from the dealership. If they can fix it within the next few weeks ( at their expense) then great I will be a happy bunny. If it goes on for longer then I will start looking into either some form of compensation or taking it back.

Regards.
MOZ

 

[millzeee]

i have the same problem on my lcr if i put my foot under the perdal and lift it the idle goes down so it must be the sensor on the pedal, does it have a return spring? as it might not be coming the whole way back up

 

[Yella Beeza]

Well mine still does this, and yes - putting foot under the pedal returns the revs to normal (sometimes blipping the pedal works, but not all the time).

My guess is something's sticking somewhere, but I just live with it. Doesn't affect the general performance of the car.

 

[MOZ_LC_TDI]

Hi guy's,

 

[MOZ_LC_TDI]

Hi guy's,
Finally ( hopefully) after the 5th time in, now been in for : new ECU,New Alternator, a weeks worth of donor car swapping, and a week waiting for Seat Diagnosis. It looks like the original thing I suspected and you guy's have recently diagnosed the throttle position sensor in the accellerator pedal assembly seems to hav been the culprit.
I have had the car back for 1.5 weeks and so far so good. i don't want to be too confident just yet as I did notice that it ddn't do it on very cold days and it has been pretty cold over the past week or so, as such i'm reserving full satisfaction for when the weather warms up a bit.
Well after all that my car has a new ECU, and alternator, and accellerator assembly ( they left all of the new stuff on).
The alternator theory was interesting and was a real possibility as it was regulating low which could have caused the ECU to inrease the revs to compensate but it didn't solve teh problem, although it did highlight a potentially expensive alternator failure which has now hopefully been addressed under waranty .
You can see in my first thread back in August taht I suspected throttle position sensor, doh!!5 moths to solve this I hope they are going to extend my warranty for the inconvenience!!! its been in their garage more than its been on my drive for the past 5 months.

Yella Beeza and millzeee, If your cars are still under waranty, get those accellearator pedals changed.

Thanks again.

Regards.

MOZ

 

[Yella Beeza]

Well I've got the added problem with mine now of a battery which seems to discharge after a week if not used.

I work away from home during the week. After it's charged at the weekend, 24hrs later it reads 12.55v (acceptable). A week later and it's dropped about 12v. So it's lost 0.5v in a week.

I know VW have the KAM (Keep Alive Memory), and this apparently will discharge the battery over a period of time, but surely not this amount. And the clock on it's own shouldn't contribute that much. The alarm is left switched off, as is the interior light.

The problems with the idling may have been caused by the battery being so discharged one time that it lost the KAM. In fact, I tried switching the radio on the other day only to be met with 1000 (ie it's treating things as though the battery's been disconnected and asking for the security code). And I don't have the code, because I'm another new Seat buyer who didn't get the code from the dealer.

Looks as though I might have a dud battery now - my own fault, probably due to under-use. But I don't want another battery to go the same way. Surely it shouldn't discharge that quick!

 

[Yella Beeza]

Should have also pointed out that I've never disconnected the battery (left on trickle charge and monitored).