Turbo Replacement Guide - Sort Of

Gokiwi64

Geriatric Member
Apr 26, 2014
1,379
722
Hockley, Essex
I put these notes together in case they maybe of use to others in a similar situation.

Disclaimer first though

"I'm an idiot and certainly not qualified to give professional advice - Do what I did at your own risk - This is a guide only as to how I replaced my own Turbo"

1. Additional Items needed
Oil
Coolant
OEM Gaskets
Studs
Crush washers

2. Tools needed.
High lift jack
Axle Stands
Bucket for Coolant
Bucket for Oil
Good strong portable light
Naked Flame Heat Source

Assortment of sockets 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch (10mm,13mm,15mm,17mm)
Assortment of Allen keys both short and normal or socket style (5mm,6mm,8mm)
Torx Socket (E14) 1/2 inch drive preferable
Breaker bar 1/2 inch
Varoius extension bars
C Spanner or C shape obstruction spanners (S shape obstruction spanners do not work)
Screwdrivers
Hammer (Yes !)

3. Time - Give yourself plenty of time

4. Removal - On Top
Drain Oil
Drain Coolant
Remove T.I.P and all associated connecting pipes
Remove Hard Boost pipe and all associated pipes
Remove Hard Boost pipe mounting brackets
Crack off Manifold to Turbo bolts (3) remove 2 of them at this stage - Save the washers
You can crack off and remove the 2 top downpipe nuts at this point
Remove Thermo Couple - This sits just underneath the waste gate accutuating arm (KO4-23)

5. Removal - From Underneath
Remove Drive Shaft heat shield
Remove Turbo oil drain pipe - From the engine side - Leave on turbo
Remove Water return pipe - From turbo
Remove Turbo stabliser bracket - Nut is welded to bracket - Bolt can be very stiff - You can remove bracket from enginge if need be
Remove the remaining Downpipe nut - Pull Downpipe away from Turbo - It doesnt move much but there is enough give

6. Removal - Back On Top
Remove remaining Manifold bolt - Turbo will now be held by Oil feed and Water feed pipes ONLY - It will need supporting
Remove Oil feed pipe
Remove Water feed pipe
Turbo will now be free and can be wiggled out the side/top where the T.I.P would have been

Notes.
There is a "plug" (6mm Allen key) in the Turbo that will need removing for installation in the new Turbo
All banjo bolts will need new crush washers - I bought a kit of copper ones from Amazon
Check the clocking on the Turbo mine was out slightly so that the Oil return bracket would not quite line up - Undo compressor housing boilts and rotate housing until it lines up - Dont forget to retighten bolts

Pre Oil the Turbo - This is an absolute must - Yes it will mostly dribble out but some will be retained
Do NOT start the car straight up - pull off the coil packs / fuel pump relay and turn over for several seconds several times to build oil pressure
 

Gokiwi64

Geriatric Member
Apr 26, 2014
1,379
722
Hockley, Essex
Just a handy tip - The crush washers that go on the turbo side can be a little awkward to keep in place. Do not be tempted to use the likes of copper grease as its too coarse and wont allow proper sealing - instead use a little drop of superglue.
 
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