Removing Sump

petey085

Pete
May 19, 2011
105
0
Hey all,


I have done a search but haven't came up with much, was a few different threads but none specific to LCR.

Basically can anyone help with a how to guide for removing the sump and cleaning it etc (oil pick up).

Thought I'd check this before getting under the car.


Many thanks in advance :)
 

Phillc

Love is....Yellow
Apr 23, 2007
4,170
20
Pershore, worcestershire
All the 1.8T sumps are the same lots of 10mm bolts, the ones next to the gear box are the worst as they are slightly of set from the access hole, the pick up pipe is held on with two 10mm bolts.
 

petey085

Pete
May 19, 2011
105
0
Thanks for your reply mate, is there any useful tips to getting to the bolts next to the gearbox?

Also heard that the sump may need a tap to break free? Any risk of damaging the sump if tapped with rubber mallet?
 

vroomtshh

Full Member
Sep 11, 2005
4,222
3
Dreghorn, Scotland
Thanks for your reply mate, is there any useful tips to getting to the bolts next to the gearbox?

Also heard that the sump may need a tap to break free? Any risk of damaging the sump if tapped with rubber mallet?

Use a 10mm socket on a UJ to crack them, then use a ball ended allen key to remove them.

A tap with a rubber mallet should be fine
 

tom t

Active Member
Feb 12, 2011
365
1
Will definitely need a tap to come off just take care, the gearbox ones are
Def the worst
 

petey085

Pete
May 19, 2011
105
0
Is there any risks with damaging the sump when giving it a "tap"? Obviously not going to smash it of, but denting etc.?
 

cleverspoon

Active Member
Sep 17, 2011
686
2
Be careful when putting back on, my bros s3's sump was cracked by being done up too too tight, it was either cracked or one of the bolts that goes in to the sump was stripped, either way he needed a new sump in the end.
 

Muttley

Catch that diesel!
Mar 17, 2006
4,987
31
North Kent
Let the oil out first :)

Take the return pipe from the turbo off completely. Stuff some clean paper towel in each end of the pipe and the open hole in the turbo - you don't want any dirt getting in.

Disconnect the level/temp sender if you have one mounted in the bottom of the sump.

There are 20 bolts holding the sump to the crankcase and three horizontal ones holding the gearbox to the sump. Remove the gearbox ones, and loosen the crankcase ones diagonally (1, 10, 5, 15, etc). Don't lose the bolts - those magnetic trays are good.

Light tap with a soft mallet may be needed to crack the seal - careful, the sump is aluminium.


Clean both mating surfaces. They must be completely free of the old sealant. The sump only seals against the crankcase - the gearbox connection is for rigidity.

Apply a continuous 2-3mm bead of sealant around the sump, running it from one hole to the next then make a half-moon inside the boltholes. At the gearbox end, don't stray too far from the inside edge of the sump. I think it's worth getting the proper VAG sealant.

Bolt up the sump diagonally to the crankcase to 5Nm.
Fit the gearbox bolts and tighten to 45Nm
Finish tightening the sump - diagonally - to 15Nm

Fit turbo oil return pipe. Don't forget to take the paper out. Reconnect the level/temp sensor.

Wait at least 30 minutes for the sealant to harden before filling the sump with oil.

If you've overdone the sealant it squeezes out into the sump, hardens, drops off and blocks the oil pickup mesh strainer.
 
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petey085

Pete
May 19, 2011
105
0
Thanks Muttley, that is just what I was looking for mate. Much appreciated for everyones input :D
 
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