Basically, had a noisy AC pump and decided to replace it. Put it all back together, and now the battery light is on the dash constant. Without having a multimeter to test anything (lost my old one), just yolo’d it and bought a new alternator.
Fitted the new one, and the problem hasn’t gone away. As far as i c, there’s only the positive cable that goes straight from the alternator to the battery, and the 2-pin connector that connect to the alternator. I’ve checked them, and both are secure and tight. No visible damage either.
But, I discovered that if I disconnect the 2-pin connector (with the engine running), the battery light goes away. So I assume there’s something wrong with the ‘smart charge’ system (or whatever Seat call it). I had a similar problem on a Ford alternator before, and it was a LIN-bus issue caused by a fault in the active grille shutter (since they used the same network, for whatever reason).
Unfortunately, I still haven’t had a chance to get a multimeter, so I haven’t actually took any measurements yet to see if the alternator ever even spits out 14.5v at any point.
So, basically, I’m hoping to find out if there are any other components using the same can/lin bus as the alternator - to see if the problem lies elsewhere.
I will say though, that the wiring to the AC pump is a bit shagged and might be shorting out or something… but unless they share the same network, that wouldn’t cause such a problem anyway (so a wiring diagram would be wonderful to have a look at to confirm/deny).
Thanks!
Fitted the new one, and the problem hasn’t gone away. As far as i c, there’s only the positive cable that goes straight from the alternator to the battery, and the 2-pin connector that connect to the alternator. I’ve checked them, and both are secure and tight. No visible damage either.
But, I discovered that if I disconnect the 2-pin connector (with the engine running), the battery light goes away. So I assume there’s something wrong with the ‘smart charge’ system (or whatever Seat call it). I had a similar problem on a Ford alternator before, and it was a LIN-bus issue caused by a fault in the active grille shutter (since they used the same network, for whatever reason).
Unfortunately, I still haven’t had a chance to get a multimeter, so I haven’t actually took any measurements yet to see if the alternator ever even spits out 14.5v at any point.
So, basically, I’m hoping to find out if there are any other components using the same can/lin bus as the alternator - to see if the problem lies elsewhere.
I will say though, that the wiring to the AC pump is a bit shagged and might be shorting out or something… but unless they share the same network, that wouldn’t cause such a problem anyway (so a wiring diagram would be wonderful to have a look at to confirm/deny).
Thanks!
