Engine Break-In Procedure

THEO

Guest
:lol: Yes, this will be done after the break-in period. Any "serious" advice?
 

chrisboyle999

MFD3 for sale, inbox me.
Nov 28, 2006
1,838
0
Geordieland
the book recommends taking it easy for the first 1000km.

a lot of people have tried this, and alot have tried jacey-boy's method, and there hasnt been great differences reported.
 

THEO

Guest
Thanks. As I still haven't received the baby (getting it tomorrow) I was wondering if there is a best method for break-in, since the manual states the most convinient one.

What about oil change? At which miles shall the first oil-change be done? Also can you advice if the mother oil is suitable for break-in?

Thanks guys.
 

chrisboyle999

MFD3 for sale, inbox me.
Nov 28, 2006
1,838
0
Geordieland
Thanks. As I still haven't received the baby (getting it tomorrow) I was wondering if there is a best method for break-in, since the manual states the most convinient one.

What about oil change? At which miles shall the first oil-change be done? Also can you advice if the mother oil is suitable for break-in?

Thanks guys.

youll get a maintenance handbook with the car, just follow it. enjoy :D.
 

THEO

Guest
Thank you for the website. The website though refers to Motorcycle & snowmobile engines.
Can anyone advice regarding the break-in procedure specifically for the Cupra?
What break-in procedure, you as owners, have followed?
 

chrisboyle999

MFD3 for sale, inbox me.
Nov 28, 2006
1,838
0
Geordieland
todays yhe day then!!

i wouldnt follow advice in that link either.

i took it reasonably easy for about 500 mile (800k), but wasnt exactly driving like miss daisy. no problems so far (touches wood).
 

Viking

Insurance co's are crap.
May 19, 2007
2,317
4
Near Richmond, North Yorks
First time you drive it, take it steady til it warms up, then drive it like you stole it. After that, every time you drive it, let it warm up then drive it like you stole it.

The engines have been bench tested prior to leaving the factory, they've been driven by all sorts of delivery drivers on and off before they arrived in this country, they've been driven by the staff at the dealers before you ever get your hands on it, and it'll already have had a serious taste of poor treatment from cold. Always warm it up, then anything goes after that.
 

THEO

Guest
That's true. Mine has 20 km at the odometer, and still haven't driven it.

They guys at the customs and port rip the cars prior delivery.

This is the second Cupra I ordered. At my first one, ordered 1 year ago the aluminium sport pedals were stolen and all the glass were scratched. Of course I didn't accept the car and I ordered a new one. Now, after six months finally arrived and although all car dealers here in Cyprus dropped the prices, I decided to get it, as I believe is the only vehicle at this price which can put a smile on your face every time you drive it.
 
Thank you for the website. The website though refers to Motorcycle & snowmobile engines.
Can anyone advice regarding the break-in procedure specifically for the Cupra?
What break-in procedure, you as owners, have followed?


The break-in procedure described applies to all 4 stroke engines including cars. The only specific advice for running in a Cupra engine will be in the handbook that comes with the car.

I ran a brand new Evo VIII MR 320 in using the above method and it ran faultlessly over the 3 years I owned it, used very little oil between services and was very quick. A simple remap amd uprated fuel pump saw over 400 bhp, which was very good for an VIII MR. If it works for an Evo I've no reason to suppose it wouldn't for a Cupra but of course that's purely my opinion.
 

jcp

Active Member
Dec 18, 2008
216
0
Herts
Don't lug and chug, keep the revs at a mid level in the gears and dont drive at constant load for the first 500 miles- the one thing a new engine needs is work but not extremes of high or low rev/load running. Change the oil at 1000 miles and the filter then drive it as you please with two rules- don't thrash it cold and let it run slowly or idle before switching off to ensure you don't leave a really hot turbo with no oil circulating- it may bake. Remember accountants want 20k service intervals to cut the pence per mile for fleet/leasing buyers. Engineers always say change oil at 10k/6months for long life.
 

THEO

Guest
Thanks for the advice.
I finally received the car with some minor problems though:

a) At the Central Air cond. air extractor, the first fin was missing - i noticed it was off-position inside air-vent. Has anyone expirienced similar issue?
The dealer told me that this is a common problem for Leons due to propably bad fitting at the factory.

b) There was a small scratch at the drivers door and some other marks which only were visible after I polished the car, since the dealer was very busy to polish the car prior delivery.

In general I'm very happy with the purchase. I'm running the engine late each night driving for 5 minutes in town, using 1st & second gear. Then I go to the highway, where I use 3rd gear and 4th for approximately 15 minutes, reaching 4000 rpm and then leave the engine to brake down up to 2500 rpm. Then I drive for 1 minute in 2500 rpm and repeat the process. This is done for both 3rd and 4rth gear. I then cool the engine by leaving the car to rest for 10-15 minutes and I repeat the process also using 5th and 6th gear up to 4000 rpm.
 
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