Morning all. I have a 2010 fr 170bhp and the past 4 days the glow plug light has started to flash and the message engine fault workshop flashes up. The light only flashes for about 60 seconds then vanishes again. Sometimes comes back on for a second time but not always. Very intermittent. I have connected my OBD11 dongle and it brings up the code P2563-Turbocharger boost control position sensor A Circuit range/performance. I've searched on the forum but have got different answers stating it could be one of the sensors or the wiring harness or carbon build up etc. Has anyone resolved this issue? Could it be as simple as having a Terraclean done to remove carbon build up? Surely if it was a failing turbo then i would notice. I've had no loss of power, no limp mode, revs not limited so still go all the way up. Don't want to spend massive money on a turbo if its possibly a simple fix. Thanks in advance, Dave.
Flashing glow plug light (P2563)
- Thread starter Fipsy
- Start date
Best get a VCDS scan to be sure.
Could be the actuator failing, or a split in a vac line, or the N75 valve, or carbon carbon sticking the VNT nozzles together.
Don't think a Terraclean will actually remove enough carbon to have an effect personally.
Could be the actuator failing, or a split in a vac line, or the N75 valve, or carbon carbon sticking the VNT nozzles together.
Don't think a Terraclean will actually remove enough carbon to have an effect personally.
Depends, get the part code off your original and see which one you need. and yea they do have an N75
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Ok so driving back from work this morning the dpf light came on. So I’m guessing it’s close to being blocked. Strange as I drive about 20 motorway miles to and from work so it gets a good run twice a day for 4 days. Will try tonight at high Revs/low gear to see if I can blow it through. Failing that, how easy it to take off so I can clean it out manually? Or is it worth getting a mobile dpf cleaning company to do the job for me?
You can get a cleaning spray to put on the DPF yourself, about a tenner. Unscrew the temp sensor at the top of the DPF and spray it in.
Worth a shot before you have to pay for professional cleaning.
Worth a shot before you have to pay for professional cleaning.
The ECU won't run DPF regen cycles when there is an engine fault present.
Very high chance your problem is the turbo vane actuator, though still an outside chance it could be the N95 or vac lines. It's a common enough problem for any decent garage with VAG experience to know how to sort.
IMO it's unlikely to be due to carbon buildup causing sticking in the turbo vanes. The CR engines don't really suffer from this issue the same way the older PD engines did.
Very high chance your problem is the turbo vane actuator, though still an outside chance it could be the N95 or vac lines. It's a common enough problem for any decent garage with VAG experience to know how to sort.
IMO it's unlikely to be due to carbon buildup causing sticking in the turbo vanes. The CR engines don't really suffer from this issue the same way the older PD engines did.
Thanks for the reply, would I be right in assuming this is the part you mention?
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Thanks, need to find someone close to me that has it then as my local go to garage doesn’t have vcds.
You can read live measuring blocks / channels via OBD11 can't you? Diagnostics wise that's all you need for this job, and even then it's only to check you're getting the correct readings from position sensor on the new actuator which could be done with a voltmeter / multimeter in a pinch.
You'll need a hand vacuum pump with a gauge as the actuator needs to be held at a specified vacuum level when setting the position on the vane lever.
You will need a couple of job specific tools as well as access is difficult. There's a cutaway socket and specific shape / size of spanner. I bought the Laser kit (part number 7070) when I did mine, but there are other options too.
I've posted Seat's own workshop instructions for this job in a previous thread which I've linked below. All the technical details such as vacuum level for installation, measurement channels and voltages are in there along with full instructions for the job.
www.seatcupra.net
You'll need a hand vacuum pump with a gauge as the actuator needs to be held at a specified vacuum level when setting the position on the vane lever.
You will need a couple of job specific tools as well as access is difficult. There's a cutaway socket and specific shape / size of spanner. I bought the Laser kit (part number 7070) when I did mine, but there are other options too.
I've posted Seat's own workshop instructions for this job in a previous thread which I've linked below. All the technical details such as vacuum level for installation, measurement channels and voltages are in there along with full instructions for the job.
Which turbo
Hi all, I have a 2009 facelift FR, 2.0 TDI engine code CEGA. Does anyone know which turbo I have?
www.seatcupra.net
Yes mate they did email them through to me. Is it relatively easy to replace in situ? Can it all be done from the top or does it require going underneath the engine too?
Yeah it's all done from the top. It's not particularly difficult, just quite fiddly due to limited access space.
You'll need to take off the air box, intake pipe and turbo inlet elbow to get enough space to reach behind the turbo to the actuator rod fixings.
I'd set aside at least 3 or 4 hours for a first go at this so as to not be rushing yourself. It can take an experienced mechanic up to 2.5 hours to do this job properly.
You'll need to take off the air box, intake pipe and turbo inlet elbow to get enough space to reach behind the turbo to the actuator rod fixings.
I'd set aside at least 3 or 4 hours for a first go at this so as to not be rushing yourself. It can take an experienced mechanic up to 2.5 hours to do this job properly.
Nice one thanks for the heads up. Managed to borrow my daughters car so I can get to work and back this week so will have a crack at fixing mine after.
Finally managed to swap the actuator over. Don’t fancy doing that again I tell ya. The diaphragm had gone on the old one as it wasn’t holding any vacuum. New one in and set as best as I could. Desired voltage as full extension is 0.4volts. I couldn’t get less than 0.5volts for some reason. Any clues as to why? Anyway, still couldn’t achieve regen as the dpf light is still on so am booked in for a forced regen on Thursday this week in the hopes that it will at least be driveable again. Then contemplating getting it removed and mapped out so as to never have the issue again. Anyone that’s had this done be able to give me a rough price as to what you paid? I’ve been told by a guy at work that I might as well get a stage 1 map at the same time as the price should be the same. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
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