Front shock absorber axial roller bearing failure ?

[freeflyer]

The front shock absorber axial roller bearing appears to have failed on my Seat Leon FR 2.0 TDI (2015).

The failure is on the near side (passenger side) - refer to the picture below...

Is the failed part item 8 in the diagram below ?

I am trying to understand the work involved to fix it and the tools required.

I have changed broken coils and wheel bearings before, but not on this car.

The repair seems to suggest that the wheel hub bolt needs to be removed, is this really necessary ?

When I've changed wheel bearings in the past, I was able to borrow a 1 meter break bar (which cost over £100) to remove and refit the hub bolt.

But when tightening I struggled to turn the hub bolt a final 180 degrees (after torquing), I could only turn it about 90 degree even with the 1m breaker bar.

So the removal and refitting the hub bolt is my main concern, especially as I no longer have access to the 1m breaker bar.

Can an impact wrench gun be used to remove and replace the hub bolt ? I'm wondering whether its worth investing in one such as this...

https://www.screwfix.com/p/milwauke...ithium-brushless-cordless-impact-wrench/820ge

I tend to do repairs myself as its usually cheaper than taking to a garage, even if I have to buy new tools (which then come in handy in the future).

These are the main tools I have (as well as axle stands and jack) - I would have to buy some spring compressors....

 

[thespicemustflow]

Having done this job a million times on a previous vehicle (2010 Hyunda i30) with crap aftermarket parts, you'll need:

Spring compressors, breaker bar, normal socket set, spanners. You won't need to remove the wheel hub - just take off the ball joint at the bottom instead so you've enough room to remove the strut.

 

[freeflyer]

Having done this job a million times on a previous vehicle (2010 Hyunda i30) with crap aftermarket parts, you'll need:

Spring compressors, breaker bar, normal socket set, spanners. You won't need to remove the wheel hub - just take off the ball joint at the bottom instead so you've enough room to remove the strut.

Thanks thespice

garage quoted me £800 to do both front springs and wheel alignment (they think the spring has broke and taken out the top mount)!

so I’ll do it myself and buy a 1m breaker bar, spring compressor and 24mm 12point socket.

I was hoping that I wouldn’t have to remove the hub bolt, but the official SAET maintenance manual says to remove the hub bolt and so do the YouTube videos

if I try without removing the hub bolt then find there’s not enough room to remove the strut, then I’ll have no choice but to remove the hub bolt. At that stage I assume I’ll need to refit the brake calliper and have someone press the brake pedal, as usually I would crack the hub bolt with the wheel on the ground but it would be too late at that point

 

[RUM4MO]

I agree that it is part of the top spring coil that has snapped off and allowed the top bearing to pass through and probably lose some of its balls.
In my world, I’d always slacken off the drive shaft nut slightly before lifting the car up.

Try to get Lesjofor(sp?) springs as they do supply different springs to suit each of the “load” codes - unlike Sachs which might leave you with a high front end!

 

[SuperV8]

I agree that it is part of the top spring coil that has snapped off and allowed the top bearing to pass through and probably lose some of its balls.
In my world, I’d always slacken off the drive shaft nut slightly before lifting the car up.

Try to get Lesjofor(sp?) springs as they do supply different springs to suit each of the “load” codes - unlike Sachs which might leave you with a high front end!

No need to touch the drive shaft bolt, just undo the strut pinch bolt and lower ball joint.

 

[freeflyer]

Any idea what size nut item 11 is (it doesn't state it in the manual)...

I might need to buy an offset spanner like this to hold the nut whilst I undo the torx....

 

[serdar_18fr]

Any idea what size nut item 11 is (it doesn't state it in the manual)...

View attachment 41540



I might need to buy an offset spanner like this to hold the nut whilst I undo the torx....

View attachment 41542



View attachment 41543

Hexagon collar nut
M14x1.5

 

[freeflyer]

Hexagon collar nut
M14x1.5

Thanks, so that needs a 21mm socket ?

 

[SuperV8]

My Bilstein B4 replacement front dampers have a 22mm nut - and a 7mm allen to hold (7mm is none standard and not usually in allen key socket sets). Have just checked as i'll need to get a deep offset 22mm ring spanner when I do my dampers.
The OE may well be different though?
I can see M14 nut spanner sizes can go from 19 - 22mm so I don't think there is one absolute spanner size.
You also may need a torx or triple square rather than an allen key socket.

If you are planning on doing most of the work on your car I recommend a triple square set - VAG like using these!
Your drop links for example need a triple square. Before attempting to undo these - clean the threads as best you can - as mine seized half way loose and broke my triple square tool leaving me in a tight spot!

IMPORTANT Also - make sure you have both front wheels off the ground - so you can manage the anti-roll bar.

 

[SuperV8]

Can an impact wrench gun be used to remove and replace the hub bolt ? I'm wondering whether its worth investing in one such as this...

https://www.screwfix.com/p/milwauke...ithium-brushless-cordless-impact-wrench/820ge

I tend to do repairs myself as its usually cheaper than taking to a garage, even if I have to buy new tools (which then come in handy in the future).

Electric impact wrenches are awesome.
Also the small impact drivers are awesome from smaller bolts/screws and general home DIY.
For some meaty suspension bolts you may want one with more than 'max' 240nm torque though.
I would pick a brand where you are happy with other 'bare' tools so you can share battery packs.
There are some chinese Makita copy impact wrenches available which may be ok for an occasional DIYer!

 

[freeflyer]

My Bilstein B4 replacement front dampers have a 22mm nut - and a 7mm allen to hold (7mm is none standard and not usually in allen key socket sets). Have just checked as i'll need to get a deep offset 22mm ring spanner when I do my dampers.
The OE may well be different though?
I can see M14 nut spanner sizes can go from 19 - 22mm so I don't think there is one absolute spanner size.
You also may need a torx or triple square rather than an allen key socket.

If you are planning on doing most of the work on your car I recommend a triple square set - VAG like using these!
Your drop links for example need a triple square. Before attempting to undo these - clean the threads as best you can - as mine seized half way loose and broke my triple square tool leaving me in a tight spot!

IMPORTANT Also - make sure you have both front wheels off the ground - so you can manage the anti-roll bar.

It looks like a 21mm (22mm is a bit lose) and I have a 7mm allen (see picture below)

But I cant find anywhere that sells a 21mm offset spanner, it seems you can only buy them online.

I was planning to do the repair this weekend but if I order online it wont arrive in time especially being easter

Thanks for the tip about both front wheels being off the ground. I had only intended raising one wheel.

I put WD40 on all the nuts and bolts a few days ago so hopefully that will help when it comes to removal

This is the shock absorber I ordered...

https://www.gsfcarparts.com/za035265

 

[SuperV8]

It looks like a 21mm (22mm is a bit lose) and I have a 7mm allen (see picture below)

But I cant find anywhere that sells a 21mm offset spanner, it seems you can only buy them online.

I was planning to do the repair this weekend but if I order online it wont arrive in time especially being easter

Thanks for the tip about both front wheels being off the ground. I had only intended raising one wheel.

I put WD40 on all the nuts and bolts a few days ago so hopefully that will help when it comes to removal

This is the shock absorber I ordered...

https://www.gsfcarparts.com/za035265

The big online retailers have next day delivery.
Give the threads a lick with the wire brush as well.

I presume you're changing both front dampers?

 

[freeflyer]

The big online retailers have next day delivery.
Give the threads a lick with the wire brush as well.

I presume you're changing both front dampers?

But will they deliver next day when its Good Friday ?

Only changing the one damper, the other one was changed 5 years ago under warranty

 

[SuperV8]

Some list Saturday delivery.
There is also these: - pass-through sockets - which I didn't know existed! which might be useful?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/KS-Tools-916-4071-TRIPLEplus-go-through/dp/B001NZ43OK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

It's recommended to change dampers in pairs.

 

[freeflyer]

Some list Saturday delivery.
There is also these: - pass-through sockets - which I didn't know existed! which might be useful?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/KS-Tools-916-4071-TRIPLEplus-go-through/dp/B001NZ43OK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

It's recommended to change dampers in pairs.

I’ve ordered an offset spanner from Amazon supposed to arrive saturday

yeh i know they should be changed in pairs, but trying to keep costs down

out of interest what is the reason to be changed in pairs? Is it simply because the other side is also expected to fail soon or is it because it affects handling etc?

if it’s just based on the principle that the other side will soon fail, then I’ll wait until that happens

least I’ll have all the tools when it does need changing

as mentioned, the shock on the other side was changed 5 years ago by a garage. So that’s had less wear and they didn’t change in pairs

 

[SuperV8]

It's for handling - so you get consistent/predictable handling. I have no idea on the impact severity of fitting different dampers - you're not supposed to mix tyres between an axle either - but many do! (I don't though )

Personally if it was me - I would re-use the existing damper (as long as it wasn't leaking and working fine), and just fix the top mount - and then at a later date when needed change both the front dampers.

Just for info - I'm changing my front dampers soon (2015 reg) when I get 5mins ! as they are worn - my car is at 120k miles. Had to change my rears at 100k miles and they were shot at that distance.

 

[freeflyer]

It's for handling - so you get consistent/predictable handling. I have no idea on the impact severity of fitting different dampers - you're not supposed to mix tyres between an axle either - but many do! (I don't though )

Personally if it was me - I would re-use the existing damper (as long as it wasn't leaking and working fine), and just fix the top mount - and then at a later date when needed change both the front dampers.

Just for info - I'm changing my front dampers soon (2015 reg) when I get 5mins ! as they are worn - my car is at 120k miles. Had to change my rears at 100k miles and they were shot at that distance.

Ive got a new spring, shock, buffer and nuts / bolts because I don't know whats damaged until I remove it. I just dont want the car to be in bits and then realise I need to replace a part that I dont have, especially as most places will be shut for the next 4 days. If I dont use a part, I can always return for a refund.

My thinking was that since I've gone to the hassle of stripping it all down, then I may as well replace it all. Afterall, the car has done 98k miles.

I've just looked at the instructions for the spring compressor (https://www.lasertools.co.uk/Product/2779/Coil-Spring-Compressor) and it looks like they dont recommend if for the spring type (https://www.gsfcarparts.com/roc4082944).

The spring looks like a double diameter spring, so if this spring compressor is not recommended then what spring compressor are you supposed to use ?

The Sealey spring compressor in ECP show the same type of compressor with a double diameter spring...

Sealey AK3841 Coil Spring Compressor 2pc | Euro Car Parts

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[SuperV8]

I would think your spring compressor will work ok - that's the same type i'm planning to use!
Your spring looks parallel (middle three coils) except to the outer most coils which you don't clamp on anyway.

 

[freeflyer]

Looking at how the spring fits on the shock absorber (on the new parts) the spring seems to have a top and bottom orientation . Is that correct? It fits better one way than the other

 

[freeflyer]

Any tips on removing track rod end ? I've got the nut off, but cant remove the rod because it must be seized.

I've tried WD40 and hammering (with the nut on) but no luck

Thinking I will need to buy something like this...

Laser Ball Joint Separator Scissors | Halfords UK

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