Have you looked at the fuses on top of the battery. My problems with the fans came back and i thought that module had gone again so i replaced it but they still didnt work. Turned out to be the fuses on top of the battery, the n/s 1 had melted to the tray couldnt tell till i tried to get the fuse out and couldnt, needs a new fuse tray really but for now the local auto electrician has put me in a fused wire in to bypass it. Just waiting for the next problem now and its looking like its gonna be my stem seals
Have you looked at the fuses on top of the battery. My problems with the fans came back and i thought that module had gone again so i replaced it but they still didnt work. Turned out to be the fuses on top of the battery, the n/s 1 had melted to the tray couldnt tell till i tried to get the fuse out and couldnt, needs a new fuse tray really but for now the local auto electrician has put me in a fused wire in to bypass it. Just waiting for the next problem now and its looking like its gonna be my stem seals
they have not melted got the fuse easy in and out.Maybe chsnge the hole fuse thing on the battery then.
Amoincof
Guest
I recently had a slightly similar problem in my Cupra.
The radiator fans would come on when I turned the ignition key, or at least they did as long as I was inching the melted fuse in place.
But when we fitted an external fuse and in the process rerouted the power so that no part of it would be connected to the old slightly defective fuse box.
The result was first of all working fans, witch was great of course!
But the changes made to the wiring also affected the radiator fans in such a way, that they would no longer run just by turning the ignition key. The engine temperature now has to reach 90 degrees Centigrade before the fans kick in.
Witch I don't mind really, as long as they work as they should, when they should, I don't see it as being much of a problem.
Though this is where I saw the potential for fixing the problem related to your persistent fans.
If you'd like, I could send you a couple of pictures describing what I did with the electrical wiring on the fuse box. In order to make the fans come on only @ around 90 dgs Celsius if you should decide that it would be preferable to switching parts in hard to reach places.
Both the radiator fans and the AC are hooked up through the fusebox on top of the battery. Automatically making the box, a liable suspect in this case. I know none of your fuses have melted, but there might still be some kind of underlying problem related to the fuse box?
(I have now re-read the post and bit more throughly I might add, quickly realizing that you have already of course considered this option. But guess I can leave it here since I still have a bit to add to the subject.)
For example: If you look directly at the fusebox standing directly in front of the car there should be 3 wires, 1 black and 2 red leading up to a clips attachment mounted on the top end of the fuse box. I would first check these with a multimeter or some other voltage measuring tool unit just to be sure that the right amount of voltage is getting to and through the "bottom/originally green/30A?" fuses in the box.
And if you would like to make your fan stop blowing around unnecessarily.
Here's how I did it;
Step 1 - You will need to cut one of the red wires (I think it was the red one on the right leading up to the clips attachment.(looking at the box from above, standing directly in front of the car) Not 100% sure about which side so if you would be interested I could figure it out fairly quickly for you.
Step 2 - Attach a cable shoe to each sides cable you cut, mount a three-way cable splitter in-between both of the cables-shoes you mounted. (Cable shoes and external fuse holders can be bought @ just about any automobile parts shop, all for less than 60kr/8$)
Step 3 - Attach the external fuse holder with a 30A fuse inside, to the third and only "shoe" left on three-way splitter. Note - you must also fit cable shoes to both cables leading out on each side of the fuse holder. Be careful to choose the right types according to eachother male/<<>>\female etc.
Step 4 - Finally, fit the second cable leading out of the fuse holder to the (+/red) on the battery, or you can do as I did witch was; get a cable-shoe with a screw hole in the middle that will fit perfectly on any of the (+) metal fuse plate screws in the fuse box. It would be basically just the same as hooking it up to the battery(since all of metal plated fuses in the box are directly lined to the (+) on the battery on one side) and the only up side by doing it like that, is that you won't have to live with too many cables flocking around and on the battery.
The Fans themselves:
I would guess that since you have seen your fans working just recently, that they aren't broken. I'm claiming this because, when I was stuck with fuse issues. I was jiggling the fuse back and fourth/in and out probably about a 100 times or so, but even after such an electrical abuse, my fans were still working just fine(after rewiring that is).
So seems to me, those radiators are able to withstand a pretty good number of jolts before failing all together. And of course when I come to think about it, they should be able to withstand that type of abuse since the power that goes through the fuses never exceeds the power needed to start and run them. Witch I'm guessing is at about 30Amps 12-14 Volts.
Note:
I'm not an expert or anything, quite on the contrary.
Basically, I'm just making assumptions based on knowledge gathered though issues I have encountered already with my own Ibiza so far.
Anyway, I hope that some of the information provided may prove useful, and that this problem of yours wont cost you too much, financially or time wise!
Best of luck buddy!
Last edited by a moderator:
I recently had a slightly similar problem in my Cupra.
The radiator fans would come on when I turned the ignition key, or at least they did as long as I was inching the melted fuse in place.
But when we fitted an external fuse and in the process rerouted the power so that no part of it would be connected to the old slightly defective fuse box.
The result was first of all working fans, witch was great of course!
But the changes made to the wiring also affected the radiator fans in such a way, that they would no longer run just by turning the ignition key. The engine temperature now has to reach 90 degrees Centigrade before the fans kick in.
Witch I don't mind really, as long as they work as they should, when they should, I don't see it as being much of a problem.
Though this is where I saw the potential for fixing the problem related to your persistent fans.
If you'd like, I could send you a couple of pictures describing what I did with the electrical wiring on the fuse box. In order to make the fans come on only @ around 90 dgs Celsius if you should decide that it would be preferable to switching parts in hard to reach places.
Both the radiator fans and the AC are hooked up through the fusebox on top of the battery. Automatically making the box, a liable suspect in this case. I know none of your fuses have melted, but there might still be some kind of underlying problem related to the fuse box?
(I have now re-read the post and bit more throughly I might add, quickly realizing that you have already of course considered this option. But guess I can leave it here since I still have a bit to add to the subject.)
For example: If you look directly at the fusebox standing directly in front of the car there should be 3 wires, 1 black and 2 red leading up to a clips attachment mounted on the top end of the fuse box. I would first check these with a multimeter or some other voltage measuring tool unit just to be sure that the right amount of voltage is getting to and through the "bottom/originally green/30A?" fuses in the box.
And if you would like to make your fan stop blowing around unnecessarily.
Here's how I did it;
Step 1 - You will need to cut one of the red wires (I think it was the red one on the right leading up to the clips attachment.(looking at the box from above, standing directly in front of the car) Not 100% sure about which side so if you would be interested I could figure it out fairly quickly for you.
Step 2 - Attach a cable shoe to each sides cable you cut, mount a three-way cable splitter in-between both of the cables-shoes you mounted. (Cable shoes and external fuse holders can be bought @ just about any automobile parts shop, all for less than 60kr/8$)
Step 3 - Attach the external fuse holder with a 30A fuse inside, to the third and only "shoe" left on three-way splitter. Note - you must also fit cable shoes to both cables leading out on each side of the fuse holder. Be careful to choose the right types according to eachother male/<<>>\female etc.
Step 4 - Finally, fit the second cable leading out of the fuse holder to the (+/red) on the battery, or you can do as I did witch was; get a cable-shoe with a screw hole in the middle that will fit perfectly on any of the (+) metal fuse plate screws in the fuse box. It would be basically just the same as hooking it up to the battery(since all of metal plated fuses in the box are directly lined to the (+) on the battery on one side) and the only up side by doing it like that, is that you won't have to live with too many cables flocking around and on the battery.
The Fans themselves:
I would guess that since you have seen your fans working just recently, that they aren't broken. I'm claiming this because, when I was stuck with fuse issues. I was jiggling the fuse back and fourth/in and out probably about a 100 times or so, but even after such an electrical abuse, my fans were still working just fine(after rewiring that is).
So seems to me, those radiators are able to withstand a pretty good number of jolts before failing all together. And of course when I come to think about it, they should be able to withstand that type of abuse since the power that goes through the fuses never exceeds the power needed to start and run them. Witch I'm guessing is at about 30Amps 12-14 Volts.
Note:
I'm not an expert or anything, quite on the contrary.
Basically, I'm just making assumptions based on knowledge gathered though issues I have encountered already with my own Ibiza so far.
Anyway, I hope that some of the information provided may prove useful, and that this problem of yours wont cost you too much, financially or time wise!
Best of luck buddy![/QUOTE
Send me some pictures off how you did it on PM and on norwegian
Amoincof
Guest
Hmm, having some slight difficulties PM'ing you. I think it might have something to do with me not having become a full member yet. Think I read about it in the start up and rule section or something.
Need at least 15 posts and 14 days of membership before being allowed to post pictures and PM people. ?
Anyway, you got a msn or mail account where I could reach you?
If you do please do PM me with it
Need at least 15 posts and 14 days of membership before being allowed to post pictures and PM people. ?
Anyway, you got a msn or mail account where I could reach you?
If you do please do PM me with it
Hmm, having some slight difficulties PM'ing you. I think it might have something to do with me not having become a full member yet. Think I read about it in the start up and rule section or something.
Need at least 15 posts and 14 days of membership before being allowed to post pictures and PM people. ?
Anyway, you got a msn or mail account where I could reach you?
If you do please do PM me with it
[email protected]
and do some more posts so you can start a riders ride thread
with pictures and all the rest
But still av the
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