Front brake pad query '17 184 FR

[E_T_V]

I'm perplexed at all the brake options (size and maker) for pads on my 184.
Apparently the PR code should reveal all, but that just confused me more as I can't see any options that correspond to the codes on my sticker.
I think front brake options are 1L or 1Z codes, but my code list doesn't have any of them listed. Any ideas on how I can order the right ones?
(its raining at the moment so I don't really want to go out and take the wheels and pads off to measure them). Any other options?

 

[serdar_18fr]

I'm perplexed at all the brake options (size and maker) for pads on my 184.
Apparently the PR code should reveal all, but that just confused me more as I can't see any options that correspond to the codes on my sticker.
I think front brake options are 1L or 1Z codes, but my code list doesn't have any of them listed. Any ideas on how I can order the right ones?
(its raining at the moment so I don't really want to go out and take the wheels and pads off to measure them). Any other options?

I can look up both front & rear brake system PR codes and also exact part numbers for your car, if you don't mind sending me your VIN via a PM.

Regards,
Serdar

 

[serdar_18fr]

Here's the brake PR & parts info for your car.

Front brakes: 1ZA
Rear brakes : 1KE

Front discs : 5Q0615301F Brake disc (vented) 312x25mm 2 units
Front pads : 5Q0698151AH Set of brake pads 1 unit

Rear discs : 5Q0615601D Brake disc, 272x10mm 2 units
Rear pads : 5Q0698451AD Set of brake pads 1 unit

Hope this helps,
Serdar

 

[SuperV8]

If you are doing the brakes yourself - you'll need a large M14 triple square for the large rear caliper bracket bolts.
Some versions you can maneuver the disc out whilst leaving the carrier in place - though this makes it harder to give everything a good clean.

 

[BillyCool]

I did the front pads and discs on my 2014 184 a few weeks ago. @serdar_18fr very kindly gave me the information that I needed.

You'll need a decent breaker bar to get the caliper bracket bolts loosened off but the rest of it was quite straight forward. It's good to give the bracket a thorough clean where the pads sit. There is usually a build up of rust and crud.

I also replaced the slider pins as well whilst I was at it. Bled the brakes as well - it's better to open the bleed nipple when you push the caliper back in anyway to stop the really mucky stuff staying in the system.

You might know all of this anyway. I actually enjoyed doing it.

 

[nd-photo.nl]

@BillyCool well done! It's very satisfying to do these kinds of jobs on your car

 

[SuperV8]

You'll need a decent breaker bar to get the caliper bracket bolts loosened off but the rest of it was quite straight forward. It's good to give the bracket a thorough clean where the pads sit. There is usually a build up of rust and crud.

These caliper bracket bolts are 200Nm - so F.T.

 

[BillyCool]

These caliper bracket bolts are 200Nm - so F.T.

Damn right! That's why I bought this. My standard breaker bar was struggling. The extra leverage/purchase made such a difference.

Amazon.co.uk

You also need a good torque wrench to torque them up again.

 

[RUM4MO]

I often worry about cheapish tools, especially ones with ratchet heads, offering 660Nm "use" - really the same for any/all 1/2" square drive socket etc.

Yes where you have limited access to swing a breaker bar, a ratchet head with something like 72 teeth must come in handy - but will it survive long?

 

[BillyCool]

I often worry about cheapish tools, especially ones with ratchet heads, offering 660Nm "use" - really the same for any/all 1/2" square drive socket etc.

Yes where you have limited access to swing a breaker bar, a ratchet head with something like 72 teeth must come in handy - but will it survive long?

Totally agree. I needed something with better leverage and it did the job. Less bothered about longevity TBH.