2.0 CR Tdi has lost all its boost

[Sam_FR]

2010 CR TDi Facelift FR
CEGA Engine with DPF delete, EGR delete

About a week ago I was driving home and as I was slowing approaching a roundabout the MFD flashed a warning saying “Engine Fault: Workshop!” accompanied by a flashing orange coil light on the dash. Engine didn’t cut out or appear abnormal in any way, but when I went to pull out onto the roundabout, I could immediately tell it was down on power, felt like I was driving the 1.5 diesel 106 I passed my test in. Made it home and scanned the ECU with Carista and it gave me the following faults

P0238 Turbocharger/Supercharger boost sensor “A” circuit high

P0113 Intake air temperature sensor 1 circuit high Bank 1

Ive tried clearing them and P0238 immediately comes back without me even starting the engine, I’ve tried resetting the ECU with no joy and replaced the boost pressure converter again with no result.

The car will drive but its as if the turbo has been bypassed, if I open the window I can hear the turbo spooling under load but there is absolutely nothing in the engine response, it struggles uphill and barely hits motorway speeds.

 

[R3k1355]

Have you tried replacing the MAP sensor or reading live data?

 

[Sam_FR]

Where is the MAP sensor located on the CEGA engine?

 

[Number12]

Where is the MAP sensor located on the CEGA engine?

In the intake pipe (15), sensor MAP is the number 18 on the image.

 

[Sam_FR]

Thanks, that was a great help. My next question is how the hell do you replace it, I can just about see it never mind get to it!

 

[Rusty2k]

You'd probably need to take the pipe out from underneath. It's held on with 2 captive screws. One on the side of the engine and one on the front.

 

[Sam_FR]

This is the latest from an error scan. Bought a repair kit for the intake manifold fault but I doubt it has anything to do with the boost issue.
Could a blocked exhaust system be causing this issue? I’ve noticed the exhaust note has changed, sounds deeper/sportier tone since this error has appeared.The DPF has been gutted, or so I’ve been told by the previous owner, and there is evidence of welding on the bottom of the DPF, and the EGR had been disabled, on closer inspection it was just left in place and unplugged. Tried removing the intake pipe below the EGR and running egr cleaner through it just as I had a spare van lying around but it made no difference.

 

[R3k1355]

It's been mapped to work with those mods right?

 

[Sam_FR]

Well it was working fine for just over two years I’ve had it, only boost related issue I’ve had is a failed jubilee clip causing a leak on the intake side, but that didn’t give any error codes.

 

[Sam_FR]

I’ve now replaced the MAP sensor (not fun trying to get that out with the rads/intercooler in place) and replaced the exhaust pressure sensor, with no luck. Tried a vacuum test on the turbo actuator, and the actuator rod moves as vacuum is applied so now I’m stuck?!

 

[R3k1355]

Do you still get the error code appear after it's been cleared but before you've started the engine?

 

[Sam_FR]

Yeah, as soon as the electrical system is switched on but without starting the engine

 

[R3k1355]

Check the wiring, clearly it's not a problem with the sensor signal it's just not communicating.

 

[Sam_FR]

Spoke to a local tuning company and they ran a more in depth diagnostic, recommended repairing or deleting the swirl flap actuator as that is what is causing the P2015 fault, which in turn is causing the other faults as the engine is unable to regulate airflow and causes the ecu to have a tantrum. I tried a temporary fix of jamming a piece of rubber hose between the manifold and actuator arm to stop it over rotating, cleared the fault codes, and it worked, but left a new error of the ‘swirl flap stuck open bank A’ so it’s still in limp mode. Just waiting on a permanent fix to be delivered, but any how to guides on removing the plastic manifold on the 2.0 tdi CEGA engine? I know there’s one or two spline drive bits I need to get, but any other help or pointers would be appreciated.

 

[Sam_FR]

Finally got to the bottom of the issues!! VW/Audi specialist took a look at it and he found that two wires were broken in the harness leading from the MAP sensor, had been rubbing against a boost pipe on the under side of the car. Car is now happy and feels ridiculously quick compared to driving about with no boost! If you are in the South Wales area, I can’t recommend Euro Performance enough, extremely professional outfit, sent a video of the diagnosis and proposed repairs needed, along with a thorough quote, and an online repair approval system that you OK before they do any work. Requested a call back to discuss something and had a phone call in five minutes.