Best TDI Engine?

Cupra Kid

Has a TDI!!
Oct 13, 2005
3,380
1
Chesterfield, Derbyshire
Looking at going diesel over the next few months and I am a little unsure as to what is the best engine to have.

I would love a PD150 but i have read so much about camshaft issues leading to the head needing to be rebuilt, is this a fairly limited problem to certain model years or is there any other way to tell if there is/will be an issue with this?

I am leaning towards the PD130 as there are loads with low mileage for decent money, I know of a few examples and the only thing that really seems to go wrong is the linkage in the gear box. Are there any other things to look out for and does the PD 150 use the same gearbox?

Finally I have read about issues with the dual mass flywheels and clutches on the PD engines, is this a big or expensive issue?

Finally i was considering getting an old 110 TDi as they seem to run for ever and ever without problems, but i am concerned that I am not going to enjoy it as much as I would a PD engined car.

All opinions wanted!
 

alien1974

Active Member
Sep 10, 2010
168
0
It depends how much cash you have go for a PD if you have lots or a non PD if you have'nt like me ;-) PDs are better as they are less agricultural lol, i thought camshaft issues only occur with long service intervals or neglect, as for the dual mass probs all suffer with this weakness.
 

kingbee

Active Member
Apr 25, 2011
102
0
Hi there,

I went through a similar decision making process, although the reason I discounted the PD150 was not because of potential mechanical issues, but because of the Cupra/FR bodykit looking too hot for the ghetto, lol, and it's likely people would either vandalise it or try to steal it.

So it was PD130 vs 110 TDi, and I chose the 110 because it's a more reliable and economical engine + once remapped produces about 145 BHP (still with the reliability and even more economy!)
 

trebormint

Active Member
Sep 17, 2008
333
0
Swindon
Had both the 110 tdi and 130bhp toledo - both remapped.

Found the 110tdi standard a bit toothless, but remapped its not too bad, and in both guises got excellent fuel economy.

The PD130 is excellent even standard - on the rolling road was 143bhp! Remapped its very rapid, and fuel economy is good if you don't use it!

Reliability wise: 110bhp - did 172k before selling it - all it needed was alternator pulley, starter, coolant sensor.

130bhp - currently on 174k. All its needed is alternator pulley.

Both still on standard clutch/flywheel.
 

James_R

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Moderator
Apr 22, 2008
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Camshaft issues are either incorrect oil or missed service related

i've seen pd engines with full dealer stamps using 505.00 spec 5w40s or 5w30s oil still suffer from camshaft problems more so with the earlier vw golfs 2002-2003, 100, 130 and 150 pd tdis. The problem is not isolated to just poorly serviced or maintained vehicles and affected most varients of the pd lump.
 

Cupra Kid

Has a TDI!!
Oct 13, 2005
3,380
1
Chesterfield, Derbyshire
Guys, thanks for your input so far. MJ I am actually looking at Leons, Golfs and Boras of the years you have listed, I didnt realise the issues affected the 130pd engines also as I have never seen anything about them on here, more the pd150 leons.

I may have to rethink my plan of next car, does anyone knoe roughly how much the cam shaft problem is to fix?

I am looking for out of the box performance mostly so thats why the PD engines have caught my eye as i only like the odd spirited drive and don't hammer my cars daily.
 

James_R

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its a gamble with any pd engine regardless of age or type but most are ok and only fail around the 130k mark.

its about £1000 to be repaired properly.

the gearboxes be it 5 or 6 speed are all fairly reliable - its the clutch/flywheels where the problems occur.
 

James_R

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Apr 22, 2008
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Heres a couple of pics from a 1.9tdi pd engine that only had 60k on the clock, again - full history, genuine correct spec oil used

Picture018.jpg


Picture017.jpg


ignore the '10' reg car in the background.
 

James_R

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common rail carries a hefty price tag and was only introduced to maintain stricter emmisions control with the introduction of the new EU5 rules otherwise the VAG brand would no doubt still be using the pd engines.
 

Seatmann

Rough around the edges
Sep 16, 2010
5,541
10
Scotlanda
I like my older engine, very tunable to a good degree and also very robust, they tune them daft over in the states with huge milages on them, like 300,000, 400,000 etc but as said the PD's all need camshafts replaced at some point, there's no real proof of what the cause is as yet, some think it's because the lobes are narrower due to the pump running off it, some engineer types drill extra holes to allow better oil flow. Very tunable engines though with good results but just need to be prepared to spend a pile of dosh an a new cam at some point. Personally I'd still get one despite the cam issue but like I said I do really like the older style engines, I've got way more poke out of mine with just bigger nozzles, next it's a vnt turbo, not sure which one yet but with a standard vnt and a tune I can get 150bhp fairly easy but with a vnt 17 or maybe a hybrid I could get 180bhp and huge torque with a tune and these nozzles. Happy days:)
 

Cupra Kid

Has a TDI!!
Oct 13, 2005
3,380
1
Chesterfield, Derbyshire
its a gamble with any pd engine regardless of age or type but most are ok and only fail around the 130k mark.

its about £1000 to be repaired properly.

the gearboxes be it 5 or 6 speed are all fairly reliable - its the clutch/flywheels where the problems occur.

I know a lot of people who have had PD engined cars, ragged them every day, never serviced them and they have not had this issue.

I'm looking for one with around 60k and don't intend to run it past 100k but having seen the picture of the cam out of the 60k mile car I'm wondering if i shouldn't be considering a car that could potentially need major engine work.

Is there any prevention to this that can be taken, such as replaing the cam before it fails? Also are the new cams that are fitted a new design that doesn't suffer from this issue?

Sorry for 101 questions but I really don't want to buy a potential money pit.
 

sockpuppet

Active Member
Apr 30, 2007
837
4
I had an FR+ 150 (55 plate) and its had 505.01 spec oil, helix and fuchs 5w40 from new with oil changes every 10000 miles on the dot and one of my followers wore right through and damaged the camshaft. If you read the posts on here this problem was supposed to have been resolved by sept 2005, but I'm not convinced as my car was one of the very last MK1's built.

This was at 125000 miles and it cost £750 to have it all replaced. It's annoying that these cars have a few common faults, but the extra cost is worth it for the driving experience!
 
Last edited:

kingbee

Active Member
Apr 25, 2011
102
0
Some interesting comments, I agree with the person who said the 1.9 TDI 110 is 'toothless' without a remap, but with a good remap (like Custom Code), it becomes a different car, to the point where you can have a 'spirited drive now and again' like the OP put it.

The older non-PD engines are more reliable on the whole, as if you research it you'd find more people say that, despite some people like trebormint who haven't noticed a difference in reliability between PD and non-PD engines.
 

Nam-uk

Active Member
May 11, 2011
1,317
451
lancashire.
mine is the 150 fr with 50k with a full Seat service history, when i phoned each garage for info on cambelt ect and service i asked about oil and the last garage said they used 10w40:( the other used ether 5-30 or 5-40 one reason used Forta engine flush (which made the engine sound allot better) when i serviced it then i put in Castrol edge 5-30, doubt i will flush the engine again though
i am also 99% sure the fuel filter was never changed or even the pollen filter, this makes you Quiz the steelers service as well, one reason i like this engine ect you can do all yourself:)

hopefully no issues with cams as i did look into this before i bought the 150 version and a friend has a garage and has serviced a few of theses pd engines most and high miles but not any camshaft fails, also no disrespect to MJ though as all he may see is VW engines all day long.
 

Seatmann

Rough around the edges
Sep 16, 2010
5,541
10
Scotlanda
For oil it's VW 505.01, 506.01, or 507.00 ONLY, 10,000 miles or 6 months, whichever is sooner.

TBH I wouldn't actually give a toss about the cam issue if I had your FR 150 lol, I'd just deal with it as and when it became an issue but until then I'd just enjoy the poke from it. The cam issue isn't every single car either for some reason but the problem is that nobody really seems to know why that is.:)
 

Nam-uk

Active Member
May 11, 2011
1,317
451
lancashire.
one reason i went castrol edge 5-30 after flush, yea this cam issue is so dam random i no one thing 10-40 is not right, thought it was 12 months? why 6 months? seems fast does that go for low miles as well?
 

Seatmann

Rough around the edges
Sep 16, 2010
5,541
10
Scotlanda
Took the info directly from another tdi site, myturbodiesel.com, it seems to be the info for the PD engines and wont hurt anyway.:)
 

Nam-uk

Active Member
May 11, 2011
1,317
451
lancashire.
will look into that as changing the oil too soon can cause more damage in the long run as there is additives in oil that only kick in the older the oil gets. the 5-30 is a long life oil but i was looking at 12 month changes depending on miles of course.