Boot Lock Mechanim

[CharlieWare21]

Hi Guys,

I have a problem with my boot on my 2012 Mk2 Seat Leon FR - when I went to shut the boot, it wouldn't lock properly and it made a funny noise! I have tried attaching a link to youtube but I haven't made 15 posts yet....


I have tried searching through here but I couldn't find a clear solution.


has anyone else had this problem? Was it just the mechanism that is attached to the boot? or was it an electrical problem?

any help would be great


Thanks
Charlie

 

[Rusty2k]

There's a worm gear in the release actuator that's prone to snapping. The noise you're hearing is probably the remains of that worm gear getting bashed around inside the actuator when the motor moves. It can end up jamming the latch in the open position. It sounds like this is what has happened to you.

Unfortunately the actuator and latch mechanism are only supplied as a single part so you'll probably need to replace the entire latch unit. I think it was about £60 from SEAT when I replaced mine a couple of years ago.

 

[Leontaff81]

I have the same issue I think the boot won't lock and when you push the seat badge to open the boot it just makes a noise also is there anyway I can lock it from inside till I get a new lock

 

[BOBisREADY]

There's a worm gear in the release actuator that's prone to snapping. The noise you're hearing is probably the remains of that worm gear getting bashed around inside the actuator when the motor moves. It can end up jamming the latch in the open position. It sounds like this is what has happened to you.

Unfortunately the actuator and latch mechanism are only supplied as a single part so you'll probably need to replace the entire latch unit. I think it was about £60 from SEAT when I replaced mine a couple of years ago.

Question, would you happen to have a link for this part, my problem is that it will no longer open and I get this wired noise...any help would be awesome!

 

[Leontaff81]

Question, would you happen to have a link for this part, my problem is that it will no longer open and I get this wired noise...any help would be awesome!

Yep that's what I have been told by seat I have just ordered it £60.04 haha and I have to order some clips for the plastic panel as on has bluetac in it to hold it on
OBisREADY, post: 4772722, member: 114400"]Question, would you happen to have a link for this part, my problem is that it will no longer open and I get this wired noise...any help would be awesome![/QUOTE]

 

[BOBisREADY]

Yep that's what I have been told by seat I have just ordered it £60.04 haha and I have to order some clips for the plastic panel as on has bluetac in it to hold it on
OBisREADY, post: 4772722, member: 114400"]Question, would you happen to have a link for this part, my problem is that it will no longer open and I get this wired noise...any help would be awesome!

[/QUOTE]
Would you have a part number?

 

[Leontaff81]

Would you have a part number?[/QUOTE]
Hi sorry don't have a part number yet I get it on Wednesday so I can give you it then I just give them my registration number and they knew what I needed

 

[Rusty2k]

Unless it's been superseded in the last couple of years it'll be 1P0827505D 9B9

Give Mike at Listers SEAT a try. They do parts delivery and discount for forum members. Contact details in the dealers section.

 

[ZiggyEP3]

This was mine in 2015 sounds nasty doesnt it. Had to use bungee cords to hold the boot shut while i got a new boot catch.

 

[Rusty2k]

Yeah that's the classic symptom of this failure.

I've said this on another thread on here in the past but I'll put it here for future reference to; if you remove the plastic shroud from the latch you can remove the broken parts from the actuator (or the whole actuator) so it will lock again. It can still be manually opened from the inside if you did this.

In fact, I've actually noticed looking at this problem again over the last few days that it seems to be a big enough problem that suppliers have sprung up offering replacement gear parts for the actuator.

I found this on eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEAT-LEO...E-LOCK-LATCH-MOTOR-ACTUATOR-GEAR/332489851855

I've not bought one so I can't speak to the quality, but for £7 it may be worth making a repair attempt on the existing actuator before buying a new latch unit.

 

[BOBisREADY]

Thx for help...most useful

 

[beanhauler]

Just as a heads up on this
I had the same problem with the boot not opening on my Altea 2007 reference and having to put my key in the slot in the boot cover to manually open.
The mechanism consists of the following components. A tailgate handle which is coupled to a single pole microswitch which closes on lift of the handle. This signals to the body module that a motor drive is requested to the tailgate latch mechanism to open.
First check remove tailgate cover by releasing one torz screw and pulling cover off. Disconnect 2 pin cable and check goes short on handle lift.
use a multimeter on ohms or use a battery and lamp...led. This is binary true or false to body module.
If it doesn't then get a piece of wire and short the plug end out with the boot closed. Boot should open.if it does then buy a new boot handle or try and get a microswitch. If it does not read on.
Pull the plug on the tailgate mechanism lock. 4 pins. Pin 1 and 2 close depending on position of boot lock mech.
Measure continuity between pin 1 and 3 and 2 and 3 for different stages of boot lock. Pin 3 is ground for the motor and the microswitches.
Signals to body module status of boot lock. Pins 3 and 4 are directly connected to the motor and should read about 8 ohms.
If this does not read 8 ohms then the motor is likely faulty...commutator is worn or brushes are dirty/worn.
If the microswitches or the motor is faulty then a new tailgate mech is the only way out. Not that expensive and takes a few mins to replace,
The tailgate mech Is sealed and you cant repair as the metal items are riveted and the motor components are pretty well encapsulated.
I see someone has posted a note about replacing the driven gear and screw actuator for a leon but not possible on the altea without drilling rivets. I have a teardown of this mechanism if anyone is interested and will post on you tube.

 

[Cinzano Umbrella]

Just as a heads up on this
I had the same problem with the boot not opening on my Altea 2007 reference and having to put my key in the slot in the boot cover to manually open.
The mechanism consists of the following components. A tailgate handle which is coupled to a single pole microswitch which closes on lift of the handle. This signals to the body module that a motor drive is requested to the tailgate latch mechanism to open.
First check remove tailgate cover by releasing one torz screw and pulling cover off. Disconnect 2 pin cable and check goes short on handle lift.
use a multimeter on ohms or use a battery and lamp...led. This is binary true or false to body module.
If it doesn't then get a piece of wire and short the plug end out with the boot closed. Boot should open.if it does then buy a new boot handle or try and get a microswitch. If it does not read on.
Pull the plug on the tailgate mechanism lock. 4 pins. Pin 1 and 2 close depending on position of boot lock mech.
Measure continuity between pin 1 and 3 and 2 and 3 for different stages of boot lock. Pin 3 is ground for the motor and the microswitches.
Signals to body module status of boot lock. Pins 3 and 4 are directly connected to the motor and should read about 8 ohms.
If this does not read 8 ohms then the motor is likely faulty...commutator is worn or brushes are dirty/worn.
If the microswitches or the motor is faulty then a new tailgate mech is the only way out. Not that expensive and takes a few mins to replace,
The tailgate mech Is sealed and you cant repair as the metal items are riveted and the motor components are pretty well encapsulated.
I see someone has posted a note about replacing the driven gear and screw actuator for a leon but not possible on the altea without drilling rivets. I have a teardown of this mechanism if anyone is interested and will post on you tube.

hi Beanhauler, thanks for this diagnosis and description. I've also been looking on youtube at various solutions to the handle issues. Following your instruction above I have been getting readings from the handle mech terminals when tested via multimeter and I've also stripped it down, investigated microswitch operation etc. There seems to be no issue with it - but does the 'quality' or strength of the signal sent to the latch motor make a difference? I have replaced the latch motor as this stopped working and recorded 4ohms. When tested yesterday and this morning the results have been inconsistent - either working fine, not at all or with a very long delay between handle operation and whir from motor and unlocking. I have cleaned the earths (of both sides of the body) that ground these cables but I'm now thinking that internal wiring is at fault, maybe at near 180deg turn the 4 pin connector wires do to meet the rest of it's parent cable. Would you concur or have I missed anything? What voltage should I see from connector input?