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Fault codes.

Stuart09

Active Member
Dec 24, 2016
145
0
Hi all.
I have had my cupra mk1 now for about a month now. Swapped it for my perfectly good BMW only to find out the guy I swapped with has lied through the skin of his teeth about the cars hidden faults. I had it scanned and various fault codes appear.
Pressure drop between turbo and throttle body.
Running lean.
Boost leaks.
Air bag light.
And a few other little things.
There is no engine management light at all. Not sure what's going on there.
Anyway I have fitted new maf. New dump valve. Boost hoses with gauge.
Question
Do I have to get it scanned to clear the codes or will the ecu clear it it's self?

Cheers

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You'll have to clear them, they will probably clear on their own, but only after a long time. Just get a cheap OBD2 reader off ebay for 15 quid, or if you have a android phone then get the torque app and a OBD2 bluetooth dongle.

The pressure drop code 17705 is usually a issue with the actual map on the ecu or the MAF, so maybe your recent replacement will sort this.

Running is bad for a turbo motor, it could be something as simple as an air leak or blocked fuel filter, right through to an injector or more liikely a weak fuel pump.

You can remove the clocks and open them up easily enough, so i expect someone has done so and put masking tape or cardboard over the engine management light.
 
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Thank you for your reply. A bit further info. The car has done 84000 miles. Ordered new spark plugs to see if that helps also. Haven't got the funds to go any deeper at the moment. Car is always driven off boost as to not cause further damage. Did have a leak and a few of the fittings were slack on the pancake pipe or the squishy 1. I can get access to vag-com but requires a 30 min drive. Will look into the dingle that sounds good.

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Thanks for that. Have ordered 1. I will do. Also had another issue where the car would cut out at idle only after 40mins of driving. Replaced the coolant temp sensor and thermostat. Also another code that popped up. Runs a lot better but still when pulling away after just starting it it misfires and wants to cut out but once settled usually 20 seconds it's fine again. Fuel consumption is terrible as well.

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The trying to stall when first started is when the SAI (secondary air injection) system is running, mine will sometimes do the same. I just tend to let the car idle until the SAI has finished running, as short of deleting the system or replacing the combi valve (expensive) i'm not sure why it does it.

Thermostat being faulty would of affected fuel consumption, but the 1.8t engine is pretty thirsty when on boost, especially if remapped.
 
Think it has been remapped but have no proof. Boost gauge is spiking at 22psi and sits at 15psi. Haven't checked it in depth as the car then started to die. Was a nightmare. How long does the secondary air system take to finish it's cycle. Thanks for all the Info as well. Much appreciated.

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No worries mate. SAI cycle is only from a cold start and it usually lasts for 60 secs. Then it can run again, for about 10 secs, a couple of times during the first 2 or 3 mins. It's those first 60 secs that mine will sometimes have a issue with, once that's over it drives fine.

At 22psi it's definitely been remapped, so it will drink the petrol when on boost. I went on a night time blast around some cornish b-roads over the xmas hols and i think i was getting less than 10 mpg lol. Great fun though.

Does it have a front mounted intercooler? If not you will need one running that much boost.
 
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It's only running at 1 bar but spikes at 22 then drops back to 1 bar pretty quick. It has the standard intercooler. But yeah was driving miss daisy when I got the car and was able to travel 280miles on 45 bucks. Off boost and sticking to the limits.

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Yeah if you drive sensible then they return good miles for a quick motor.

You'll probably find that your intake temps get very high, very quickly on the standard intercooler when you're on boost. It will probably be ok atm as the weather is so cold but in the summer you'll definitely need a FMIC at 15 psi. I think the standard boost for the 180bhp models was around 10psi.
 
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OK cool. Thanks for that. I have not really been on boost at the moment as it was causing all sorts of bother. Hopefully this dodah will be here tomorrow for clearing the codes and all will be well. Fingers crossed. But you have been very helpful. Thank you.

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OK so the obd2 reader came today. Fired it up registered no faults. Even though I have an airbag warning light on. Not sure this app is working correctly.

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Could just be a sensor. My brake wear light is on with no fault code which is a fault with the sensor. Even at that though crash sensors for airbags do tend to show up with codes
 
Showed up on vagcom as a fault. But I might not have set it up right.

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No sorry I bought this obd2 connector and the obd app for android. Says the system is running fine when on live data but has no fault codes shown. Will try again and see what's what. Cheers


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Got the car scanned from a mate yesterday he was using vcds system. Car is running well. Just need to sort the airbag fault and good to go. Thanks for all your help. Much appreciated.

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I believe the android app will only scan for engine codes, I use Torque and it has never picked up any faults even though I have had brake switch, door module and abs all showing on Vag-Com. I think the generic code readers will only pick up engine codes as well. VCDS and Vag-Com scans all available modules and some of the manafacturer specific code readers will do live data and other modules besides the engine.
 
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