Petrol Turbo engines - Single intercooler.
If you have any kind of loud hissing or loud spooling noise from your turbo that can't be attributed to a big leak elsewhere, check the pipe that feeds from the steel downpipe to the pancake pipe.
Getting fed up with the hissing I checked mine out to find this mess:
Leaking so much boost that the car was screwing up seriously and constantly holding back under full throttle.
To change this hose is fairly straightforwards, you only need a couple of screwdrivers and a 10mm spanner. As far as I'm concerned there's only one way to do this job, which is to pull the hose from above rather than below. It's the only way to be 100% sure that the connector has seated correctly and the locking bar is fully engaged.
You don't need to raise the car to do this either - firstly park the car with the steering on full lock right.
Reach in infront of the wheel and you should see the bottom of the pipe where it enters the pancake pipe. Loosen the jubilee clip and shove the hose back off the pancake pipe.
Strip the engine covers off, and take the N75 and DV hoses out of the top of the steel pipe:
There's a clamp sat over the steel pipe is in plain sight, pull the two 10 mm bolts and remove the clamp. There's a second clamp that needs to be removed down the back of the block:
These are a little tricky to get at - you may need to pull the heat shield away rom the firewall - it just clips onto some other pipework and pulls away easily.
Disconnect the hose from the other end of the downpipe and the whole assembly should now lift free - it's an arse of a job to do and takes some persuasion. It will lift out cleanly if you get it at exactly the right angle (as it will go back in easily with patience.)
Once out of the car separate the two halves:
Make sure you give the inside of the metal tube a good clean to make the joint seal up correctly then reassemble:
!NOTE! check the steel pipe for a good tight fit over the locking tabs... if there's play from the old hose being sh!t, adjust it back in with a hammer! Be gentle though!
Make sure you put the heat shield over NOW as it's an utter arse to fit when the hose is back on the vehicle:
Reassemble and you're done!
Note: It may help considerably during reassembly to have a second person holding the steel pipe; it needs to be lifted up and down a few times to get the hose into the right location to reattach to the pancake pipe!
Now, some interesting pictures:
The revision of the pipe on the car was version A:
Note the inferior, chewed through locking tab and the circular o-ring
The revision I've just fitted is version C:
Note how the locking tab is much stronger and the o-ring is modified!
Hope this makes sense and helps!
If you have any kind of loud hissing or loud spooling noise from your turbo that can't be attributed to a big leak elsewhere, check the pipe that feeds from the steel downpipe to the pancake pipe.
Getting fed up with the hissing I checked mine out to find this mess:
Leaking so much boost that the car was screwing up seriously and constantly holding back under full throttle.
To change this hose is fairly straightforwards, you only need a couple of screwdrivers and a 10mm spanner. As far as I'm concerned there's only one way to do this job, which is to pull the hose from above rather than below. It's the only way to be 100% sure that the connector has seated correctly and the locking bar is fully engaged.
You don't need to raise the car to do this either - firstly park the car with the steering on full lock right.
Reach in infront of the wheel and you should see the bottom of the pipe where it enters the pancake pipe. Loosen the jubilee clip and shove the hose back off the pancake pipe.
Strip the engine covers off, and take the N75 and DV hoses out of the top of the steel pipe:
There's a clamp sat over the steel pipe is in plain sight, pull the two 10 mm bolts and remove the clamp. There's a second clamp that needs to be removed down the back of the block:
These are a little tricky to get at - you may need to pull the heat shield away rom the firewall - it just clips onto some other pipework and pulls away easily.
Disconnect the hose from the other end of the downpipe and the whole assembly should now lift free - it's an arse of a job to do and takes some persuasion. It will lift out cleanly if you get it at exactly the right angle (as it will go back in easily with patience.)
Once out of the car separate the two halves:
Make sure you give the inside of the metal tube a good clean to make the joint seal up correctly then reassemble:
!NOTE! check the steel pipe for a good tight fit over the locking tabs... if there's play from the old hose being sh!t, adjust it back in with a hammer! Be gentle though!
Make sure you put the heat shield over NOW as it's an utter arse to fit when the hose is back on the vehicle:
Reassemble and you're done!
Note: It may help considerably during reassembly to have a second person holding the steel pipe; it needs to be lifted up and down a few times to get the hose into the right location to reattach to the pancake pipe!
Now, some interesting pictures:
The revision of the pipe on the car was version A:
Note the inferior, chewed through locking tab and the circular o-ring
The revision I've just fitted is version C:
Note how the locking tab is much stronger and the o-ring is modified!
Hope this makes sense and helps!
