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PD150 clutch
- Thread starter cuprar51
- Start date
FWIW I am using a standard clutch and flywheel, but had to get the clutch replaced after a remap to 175hp / 300lb ft.
From reading previous posts on here I have a feeling the standard flywheel, if it's not already knackered (can check for play when the clutch is replaced) is OK for a stage 1 remap but perhaps not for more extreme power (e.g: hybrid turbos, bigger injectors and over 200hp).
From reading previous posts on here I have a feeling the standard flywheel, if it's not already knackered (can check for play when the clutch is replaced) is OK for a stage 1 remap but perhaps not for more extreme power (e.g: hybrid turbos, bigger injectors and over 200hp).
thanks for that mate, im only going to stage 1 so will get the clutch replaced and get the garage to check the flywheel see if its ok.
you will need to upgrade the clutch
standard clutch cant handle the torque
i fitted a helix clutch to mine with new standard dual mass
standard clutch cant handle the torque
i fitted a helix clutch to mine with new standard dual mass
There is no need to "upgrade" the standard clutch especially if you're only remapped to 175bhp. This amount of power is well within the tollerances of the standard clutch, some stage 1 remaps are on the verge of almost 200bhp (dyno lottey) and some standard clutches are fine with this albeit others are not but in general if you have not got any plans for bigger turbo and more power etc i would just replace with standard unless you're wiping you butt with 20's and dont mind spending double just for piece of mind.
I am speaking from personal experience and some research/advice, mine was rolling roaded at awesome and made 194@fly and 182 @the wheels and has been fine for the last 20K on replacement standard clutch and dmf flywheel, come to think of it i only replaced these due to the master cylinder seals leaking which were causing the clutch to release itself when i had the clutch pressed.
I am speaking from personal experience and some research/advice, mine was rolling roaded at awesome and made 194@fly and 182 @the wheels and has been fine for the last 20K on replacement standard clutch and dmf flywheel, come to think of it i only replaced these due to the master cylinder seals leaking which were causing the clutch to release itself when i had the clutch pressed.
That's the way I would do it. Get it replaced with an uprated clutch and you can have a full fat well over 300lbs of torque map. That will be on a stage 1 map too.
Coca cola Dave as you will be aware its torque that kills the clutch any ideas from your dyno lottery read out what you peak torque was? There has been countless members having restricted maps (below 300lbs) and even at 280's the clutches have been slipping sometimes in the way back and many within several weeks.
There are of course a few lucky ones out there whose clutch holds - it is of course not exactly black and white with clutches i.e. below 300 does not mean it will be fine - by a long way imo.
At the end of the day if you get an uprated clutch fitted hopefully you should be at least showing 40/50lbs more torque than a restricted one whilst trying to roll that dice on an OE clutch.
For the record I have been running a SACHS organic clutch for over five years now and it has been great. Mind out for the stink until its bedded in under load for the first few weeks though.
I did a lot of research five years ago and the answer was the same. However maps are continually improving the figures and on that basis the argument for an uprated clutch is even greater imo.
Well mate, my standard clutch slipped with a 175hp / 300lb ft remap (have dyno printout to prove outputs) and when the old clutch plate was removed it was less than half worn! Make of that what you will.
I had specifically asked for torque to be limited to 300lb ft in order to use the standard clutch, based on comments made by various remapping companies.
Did you own the car from new?
I ran my car with a hybrid turbo and supporting mods (approx 220bhp) from 30k to 130k and I eventually replaced the clutch because I got bored waiting for it to break.
A lot of it depends on how the standard clutch is and how you treat it
Hybrid, green filter, turbo back exhaust, updated cooler pipe work and a map.
220 is only an estimate, I never had it on the rollers at that spec
No. Car had 54k miles on when I bought it, so the previous clutch was part-worn though it didn't look too bad when the old plate was removed.
I just hope the replacement clutch will last me for a while as the parts were £180 and the fitting about £350
No. Car had 54k miles on when I bought it, so the previous clutch was part-worn though it didn't look too bad when the old plate was removed.
I just hope the replacement clutch will last me for a while as the parts were £180 and the fitting about £350
Every chance it had had a hard life then.
I take it at those prices, you just replaced it with standard?
Aye. The uprated clutch should be nearer £500 for both plates alone, let alone the pressure release bearing.
Yup, standard. Found it hard to swallow £600+ for an uprated Sachs clutch so I took a chance on the standard Sachs replacement and so far it's holding
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