davidhunter

Full Member
Apr 27, 2004
122
0
Dear all I know this question has been asked a thousand times and there appears to be issues with the Mk1 in this respect but I am having the problem and can't solve it.

So far I have

Replaced the subframe control arms. Eurocar parts arms not good so within a year I

Replaced the bushes in the new arms as the rubber had gone. Used polyurethane

Replaced the track rod ends as one was slightly rattly

Swapped the asymetrical michelin PS3 from one side to other still pulling left so not a tyre issue.

Got a full hunter 600 laser wheel alignment around 4 months ago.

I also have the full eibach pro suspension so springs and shocks etc. look ok although they are 6 years old now.

Also checked discs and brake pad wear both sides are worn but have at least 60% life left in them if not more.

Any ideas? I can scan in the wheel alignment print out if that helps but I am totally confused. I have just pumped the inner tyre up to 38psi and the outer to 30psi to see if that will help in anyway.

My winter tyres will be going on in a few months (or weeks looking at this weather) so I will see if that makes any difference.

All suggestions taken on board even the sell your car and buy something newer than a 2003 seat leon cupra !!!!

Cheers

David
 
Pulling to the left under any circumstance ? I.e under braking, acceleration, or just Al the time ?
 
ah yes forgot that point. Pretty much all the time some roads with bigger camber its worse but I have even tried it in flat car parks etc. and it pulls. If I put it out of gear and coast it still pulls to the left. Under hard acceleration its hard to tell but I think its maybe slightly less but I still go towards the hedge too quickly so grip the wheel again !!
 
Checked bearings all round ? Check the rear brakes, is the steering nice and smooth? Swap the rear wheels left to right as well, check all wheels for buckles.. hunter alignment didn't show up anything strange on the rear ?
 
bearings all appear ok and checked during MOT (hopefully!!) Rear brakes had a problem about 2 years ago with binding so I replaced both calipers but should probably check them again just to be sure. Steering itself is nice and smooth.
No buckles etc. Rear tyres are only on less than a year so they are in good condition have not swapped them but thats an idea just to check.

Hunter alignment showed up nothing strange. Going to find printout and scan it in so you can have a look.
 
q7q7qjdcz


Ok I hope this picture works. Only thing I just noticed is that its for a CUpra R setting not 2003 Cupra but not sure if that makes a huge difference. Caster is off but ever since the Eibach dropped suspension its always been a bit out.
 
Hmmm, nothing looks too out really does it, too much cross caster can cause pulling.. But it's really not out by that much.
 
I know its very strange. The only thing I could think is if the machine itself is not calibrated properly. Did look at the rear discs last night, the pads don't seem to be touching across the entire surface of them so its a possible issue. I think I need to get a brake test done on it MOT is due in a month or two anyway.

Cheers

David
 
Mine does a little bit, but then so has every mk4 golf I've driven too. Nothing major though. I don't quite understand how the wheel alignment works but could the subframe be slightly out of line or would that show on the printout as thrust angle,hopefully someone who knows can confirm?
 
Has no one poitned out your castor is way out? Have you got adjustable top mounts? Has the subframe been off?
 
Also checking for binding brakes, go for a run and be gentle and hardly use the brakes, pull over and check the temperature of each wheel near the hub and see if you can feel a difference, the hottest wheel will be a binding one usually.
 
the caster has been miles out since the eibach lower suspension but thats around 7 years ago the pulling system is new. I have been getting the alignment done every 2 years approx since then.

The binding thing I have considered as recently I had my Touran almost put me into a ditch when the front left bound on, smoke and a red hot disc from 70 mph to the hard shoulder was not funny. Went to a garage they fixed it and a month later it happened again so I renewed the caliper been good for 2 months so far.

I am looking at renewing the rear discs as there is something up with them just dont think they are great.

No I dont have adjustable top mounts and the only part of the subframe I have had off is the control arms after the rubber fell apart within 1 year of purchase from Eurocarparts. Really annoyed with them as everything else from them has been good.

David
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but usually the castor isn't that badly effected when dropping the car? I think something else is also a miss because of your castor angle, incorrect castor can lead to twitchy and unpredictable handling, binding brakes is easily dissed out with the above method, iv just had a problem with binding brakes but mine turned out to be a combination of servo rod mal adjustment and two new rear calipers.
 
unequal caster would cause problems ... But .12 of a degree ? It could be worth getting the subframe shifted to see what you can do with your caster angle. I would also get it tracked up again, there's no real reason for you to be toeing in 0.02 on one side and dead straight on the other , just lazy technician !!
 
unequal caster would cause problems ... But .12 of a degree ? It could be worth getting the subframe shifted to see what you can do with your caster angle. I would also get it tracked up again, there's no real reason for you to be toeing in 0.02 on one side and dead straight on the other , just lazy technician !!

Unequal yes but he's also running 2deg too much castor too, agree with the lazy technician mark though, really no excuse when your already under there and esp as all he's adjusting is toe and nothing has adjustable cam bolts like some cars do.

Here's someone else's graph to show the figures of a car in spec, shamelessly stolen from Dolby on another thread :)

 
Yeah, I've got no argument that it's off, but as long as it's equal it shouldn't really pull. Has your gearbox ever been changed ? To your knowledge? It's possible the frame was just shunted all the way back.
 
Iirc too much castor will make the car uneasy so might be magnifying the effect of something else that's causing the pull, either way he's probably best getting both items corrected for it too drive properly, mine pulls but ever so slightly sometimes, it's hardly even noticable and sometimes it's doesn't, running all the same tyres and having your geo in spec really does help :)

I also concur that it really does look like your subframe has been moved.


do they run alignment pins in the subframe like the b5 platform does?
 
yes I would like to see that caster sorted and it may help everything. I think its time for another garage to have a look at it as McConachys where they did the last alignment just said all Seat's pull so not exactly the solution I was expecting.

Anyone recommend an alignment expert in or around Glasgow?