rear anti roll bar on mk2 cupra
- Thread starter kezFR07
- Start date
that is correct what you say. Im going to be devils advocate here though
By just changing the rear bar you are massivley changing the handling characteristics of the car. understeer will be massively reduced, but the car will be more likely to oversteer.
now if you were to upgraded both the front and rear bars, you keep the handling balance similar, whilst reducing the overall body roll and keeping the optimum wheel geometry for longer. this therefore keeps handling very predicatable and understeer reduced as well. so similar results to above but with less likelihood of over-steer.
Now then, i had the eibach adjustable front and rears. initially set them all to hard, and it was great, then on a couple successive days at the ring, i messed about with the settings of the bars. ie:
front stiff, rear soft,
front soft, rear soft, and
front soft rear stiff. This gave me the best turn in of all the combinations and is what i kept it at. I do alot of track days, and just before selling up i had decided i was going to change the eibach rear for the BSH rear ARB.
this meant i would have an uprated front bar and a very stiff rear bar. I wouldn't recommend this for everyone though. i like the car to be slightly more over-steer biased and to be a little lighter on the back end to help poke the nose in. maybe i only felt the need to do this because the vRS has the bigger back end etc, who knows.
there are other ways of achieving this though. having a full geometry setup they can adjust the toe front and rear to give different driving characteristics, or if you want to kerb over-steer completely, you can always add the whiteline anti lift kit, and TT lower control arms or top mounts for extra camber. this way the front will outgrip the rear giving a nice loose back end(no pun intended)
My ideal car road/track setup would be
Whiteline front 24mm ARB(adjustable),
BSH/neuspeed 27mm rear ARB(adjustable)
TT lower control arms
Whiteline anti lift kit
Solid lower engine mount
poly bushed front control arm bushes etc
and maybe some performance dampers to replace the stock ones. prob bilstein or AST
By just changing the rear bar you are massivley changing the handling characteristics of the car. understeer will be massively reduced, but the car will be more likely to oversteer.
now if you were to upgraded both the front and rear bars, you keep the handling balance similar, whilst reducing the overall body roll and keeping the optimum wheel geometry for longer. this therefore keeps handling very predicatable and understeer reduced as well. so similar results to above but with less likelihood of over-steer.
Now then, i had the eibach adjustable front and rears. initially set them all to hard, and it was great, then on a couple successive days at the ring, i messed about with the settings of the bars. ie:
front stiff, rear soft,
front soft, rear soft, and
front soft rear stiff. This gave me the best turn in of all the combinations and is what i kept it at. I do alot of track days, and just before selling up i had decided i was going to change the eibach rear for the BSH rear ARB.
this meant i would have an uprated front bar and a very stiff rear bar. I wouldn't recommend this for everyone though. i like the car to be slightly more over-steer biased and to be a little lighter on the back end to help poke the nose in. maybe i only felt the need to do this because the vRS has the bigger back end etc, who knows.
there are other ways of achieving this though. having a full geometry setup they can adjust the toe front and rear to give different driving characteristics, or if you want to kerb over-steer completely, you can always add the whiteline anti lift kit, and TT lower control arms or top mounts for extra camber. this way the front will outgrip the rear giving a nice loose back end(no pun intended)
My ideal car road/track setup would be
Whiteline front 24mm ARB(adjustable),
BSH/neuspeed 27mm rear ARB(adjustable)
TT lower control arms
Whiteline anti lift kit
Solid lower engine mount
poly bushed front control arm bushes etc
and maybe some performance dampers to replace the stock ones. prob bilstein or AST
Last edited:
i dont see an issue at all tbh. i was just playing devils advocate. lift off oversteer is for real men lol.
You dont have to be technical at all. get proper trained chassis technician to do the work like center gravity or VWRacing etc, essentially guys who regukarily race or actively support race teams and they will be abel to do everything you want them to.
you tell them how you want it to drive, and they will tell you what they need to do and adjust
how much is the rear ARB by the way, i only ask because the eibach front and rears are only £240 for the pair
You dont have to be technical at all. get proper trained chassis technician to do the work like center gravity or VWRacing etc, essentially guys who regukarily race or actively support race teams and they will be abel to do everything you want them to.
you tell them how you want it to drive, and they will tell you what they need to do and adjust
how much is the rear ARB by the way, i only ask because the eibach front and rears are only £240 for the pair
well not solid, but the stiffest road/race version i could get
ie this http://www.volkswagenracing.co.uk/Golf%205%20Pages/Golf%20DrivetrainEngine%20Mounts.html
ie this http://www.volkswagenracing.co.uk/Golf%205%20Pages/Golf%20DrivetrainEngine%20Mounts.html
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