seat toledo oil pump

newbs

Active Member
Aug 22, 2011
58
0
goucester
hi guys

my seat toledo tdi 110 x reg as got the flashing red oil sign (oil pressure), changed the switch tonight but it came back on :-( next thing im gonna try is the oil pump (how much am i looking at part & fitting?) also took the oil dipstick out n it was way high.. could that cause the light to come on??

any more info would be great
 

Dox1966

Active Member
Jul 13, 2007
243
1
You need to get the oil pressure tested to confirm there's a problem and go from there - it could be a wiring or dash fault.

Is there any unusual knocking from the engine at idle or when revved?
 

newbs

Active Member
Aug 22, 2011
58
0
goucester
no mate no knocking or anything,,where does oil pressure testing? & how much am i looking at for get a test done?
 

Muttley

Catch that diesel!
Mar 17, 2006
4,987
31
North Kent
Testing would be done by a dealer or (preferably) a good independent VAG specialist.

Has the filter been changed recently? If it's been in for a while it may just be clogging up. I'd look first at your oil pickup pipe in the sump before changing the pump, though. The strainer mesh on the end gets blocked with debris: this is much more common than oil pump failure, at least it is if measured by the number of posts we see about it on here.

The pump is chain driven off the crankshaft, and relatively easy to change once you've got the sump off, though I've not done that job myself up to now.

In your other thread you asked about engine codes. If you're sure it's a TDI 110 then it is almost certainly ASV. AHF is the other possibility, but most on here seem to be ASV. AHU is a much earlier 90BHp engine, not seen on Mk.2 Toledos as far as I know.
 

newbs

Active Member
Aug 22, 2011
58
0
goucester
its deffo a 110bhp red i version m8,,im gonna do a oil n filter change i dont think its been done for ages on the car,, you said about a oil pick up pipe do you unblock it or is it a part you can replace? because dont really wanna be selling out loads off cash if it be something simple..
 

Muttley

Catch that diesel!
Mar 17, 2006
4,987
31
North Kent
Oil and filter change would be a good idea, especially if you think it's been more than 10k miles since the last change. You'll need a cup wrench socket to get the top off the filter housing.

The pickup pipe has a wire mesh filter over the end and this gets blocked with debris. It can be cleaned or you can get a new pipe. I've not done it but many people on the forum have posted about it.
 

newbs

Active Member
Aug 22, 2011
58
0
goucester
cheers, i just took it to a local garge and he cheked the dipstick n said there to much oil in there,,way to much. he said that can poss could set it off n make it flash could that be a possibilty? as gonna drop the oil n filter if it is
 

Muttley

Catch that diesel!
Mar 17, 2006
4,987
31
North Kent
Can you tell us how far above the "max" mark on the dipstick the oil level is? further up than the kink in the dipstick? A lot further?

The biggest issues that can arise from overfilling with oil are splashing from the crank, which inhibits power quite a lot and puts masses of oil into the PCV breather system, and that oil getting into the intake and possibly causing run-on, and also perhaps contaminating your MAF. I've never seen or heard of the oil light come on for overfilling, and can't work out how it might happen.

However if you do have too much oil in, you need to drop the level down to on or below the max mark on the dipstick. The easiest way to do this is with a Pela pump, which sucks out oil through the dipstick tube: with a bit of care you don't even get your hands dirty.

Otherwise it's front end up on ramps or axle stands, undertray off, sump plug off, get oil up your sleeve, splash it all over the concrete, curse, take the filter cover off, take out the oily paper filter, drop it, curse some more. Then put it all back together and put the right amount of oil in :)

I'm describing what I managed to do the last time I changed my oil above, by the way. Pela pumps are looking attractive even if they do cost on the order of £40.

Before you begin, get hold of a new sump plug (the sealing washer is part of the plug, and you get a better seal with a new washer), oil filter kit (paper filter plus two o-rings) and oil - a five litre can will do. I got mine from my local independent VAG specialist garage, total of about £30 if I remember right.
 

newbs

Active Member
Aug 22, 2011
58
0
goucester
yea i getting the oil n filter changed tomorrow mate doing it in is workshop on the ramps,,it was above the kink & really thin. these engines dont have a oil lever sensor in the bottom of the engine do they? wanted to change the oil like you said earlier as far as i know it could be old as hell & causing a prob..
the light seems to be coming on over certain rev/speed flashing & beeping. but when its potting along it doesnt come on (flashing & beeping)
 

newbs

Active Member
Aug 22, 2011
58
0
goucester
gonna do the pick up pipe & pump on weekend,,but need to dump the oil n filter change it asap which i do 2morro
 

newbs

Active Member
Aug 22, 2011
58
0
goucester
cheers m8,,well its going inlater for a oil n filter change,,the oil pipe is it easy to get to? & is it easy to clean or just by a new 1? if so how much
 

Muttley

Catch that diesel!
Mar 17, 2006
4,987
31
North Kent
Once you take the sump off it is exposed. It's bolted to the oil pump, which is at the bottom of the engine underneath the crank.
 

newbs

Active Member
Aug 22, 2011
58
0
goucester
best to replace or clean? if clean whats the best thing to use?? some 1 tonight said try put engine flush in the engine & it might clear it :-s
 

Muttley

Catch that diesel!
Mar 17, 2006
4,987
31
North Kent
Engine flush? I can't think of anything you could put in the oil (and if it isn't in the oil it won't clean the pickup pipe) that would clean this without destroying the bearings.

If the pickup mesh is blocked, it is with items that won't dissolve in engine oil: usually bits of sump sealant that have been squeezed out of the joint when the sump has been put back on, which then go brittle and break off, dropping into the sump. So when you replace the sump, make sure you don't put too much sealant on the join.

Replacing the pipe is easier than cleaning, but cleaning shouldn't be difficult. Slosh it around in a dish of paraffin then dry it off once it's clean. The debris is mostly held in place by the suction of the pump and should easily come away with backflushing.

The pipe is a component of the engine, and the engine (ASV, AHF or whatever yours is) is common across many VAG cars. You could try some of the forum sponsors, such as Sere Motors.

By the way, there are three ways you can determine exactly what your engine is.

Engine number = engine code + serial number. You'll find it:

* Stamped onto the block at the join between the bellhousing and engine block, near the oil filter.

This is pretty difficult to fake and will tell you the installed engine type and serial number.

Looking from the nearside of the open bonnet, the engine number is difficult to see, under the engine cover and a lot of water hoses.

EnginenumberlocationTDI110.jpg


Here it is in close-up, but still in the shadow of all that pipework.

EnginenumbercloseupTDI110.jpg


Brightening the image shows up part of the number

EnginenumberbrighterTDI110.jpg




* On a sticker on the cambelt cover

Here you can just see the edge of mine, sticking out from under the engine cover. This is looking from the offside of the bonnet.

EnginenumberstickerTDI110.jpg



The engine code also appears on the build sticker, which is stuck into your service book, and is also stuck to the floor of the boot underneath the carpet.

Looks like this:

Build_Sticker_Sample_MM.jpg


Heres's what my build sheet looks like. The dot-matrix characters can be a little odd

Buildsheet.jpg


(I've removed the last bit of the VIN code, which is the chassis number)
 

the polisher

Guest
a good way of cleaning the inside of your engine is putting a pint of Automatic transmission fluid in with the engine oil.drive normally for 70-80 miles then do the oil and filter change,the inside of your engine will be gleaming.
 
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