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chrispcupre

Active Member
Jul 27, 2011
764
9
leicestershire
When I bought my leon fr 20vt I put the first set of discs and pads on,standard APEC 312mm disc and pads after a year they warped so I bought mtec drilled and grooved with new pads and were fine for nine months but they have warped I have done a search on here and it seems a few have had this i did notice one side the disc didnt sit aswell as the other like the hub surface is bent but they were fine for months I may just have been buying cheap discs anyone reccomend any decent discs n pads?
 
Maybe also time to reflect on your braking behaviour?

Best way is to do some proper brake bedding first (so important!). After proper bedding in, brake explosive (pumping behaviour) instead of "trailing" and dont keep your foot on the brake pedal when standing still
 
Maybe also time to reflect on your braking behaviour?

Best way is to do some proper brake bedding first (so important!). After proper bedding in, brake explosive (pumping behaviour) instead of "trailing" and dont keep your foot on the brake pedal when standing still

What's trailing? Stamping on brakes until you are at a standstill?:whistle:
 
Are you fitting these yourself?

Id probably suggest buying good quality discs and pads rather than generic drilled and grooved models. Mintex, brembo etc are all good makes (Try buypartsby.com or mintex) Then make sure the hubs are immaculate prior to putting the new discs on.

Then propery bed them in prior to jumping on the anchors
 
Cheers for replays guys I fit them myself and bed in gently every time i might look at passenger side hub as its had a new bearing and may have been distorted in the press
 
What condition were your caliper sliding pins and boots when you changed the discs last time? Would be worthwhile giving them a good clean and regrease, also make sure the boot is in good condition (no splits) otherwise you risk seized caliper pins.
 
What condition were your caliper sliding pins and boots when you changed the discs last time? Would be worthwhile giving them a good clean and regrease, also make sure the boot is in good condition (no splits) otherwise you risk seized caliper pins.

The boots looked ok and I clean and copper slipped the sliding pins and pad carrier, the piston pushed back easy as well
 
The boots looked ok and I clean and copper slipped the sliding pins and pad carrier, the piston pushed back easy as well

How are they now?

Tbh I wouldn't use copper grease on the pins, used to though... Until the pins seized and ended up needing new caliper carriers, a snip at £85 a side :blink:

Check the pins again in their current condition, you might need to clean all the copper grease off and regrease with hi temp rubber grease instead.

I found the copper grease when used on the pins would go hard and cause the seizing in the first place.

No issue using copper grease on the back of the pads and at the contact points on the carrier though ;)
 
How are they now?

Tbh I wouldn't use copper grease on the pins, used to though... Until the pins seized and ended up needing new caliper carriers, a snip at £85 a side :blink:

Check the pins again in their current condition, you might need to clean all the copper grease off and regrease with hi temp rubber grease instead.

I found the copper grease when used on the pins would go hard and cause the seizing in the first place.

No issue using copper grease on the back of the pads and at the contact points on the carrier though ;)
I have some high temp grease I will try that on the slider bolts