I started getting into this a wee while ago and I think I remember RUM4MO giving me an answer. Unfortunately I can't remember all of it and anyway I've been reading some more on google in the meantime. I also have some more specific knowledge of applying this to my 2016 Ibiza 1.0 3 cylinder 95hp. - which has one of these sensors.
For anyone who's not too sure what I'm talking about here's quite a good wee introduction: https://www.samarins.com/glossary/battery-sensor.html
We are old so pretty much observing lock down. However we are both fit and as healthy as most of our age so we go walks etc all observing the proper distancing. Don't use the car for any of it though. Once a week we drive for half an hour across the city to a small town just outside the city limits to give support - observing strict distancing - to a family member who is recovering from a psychotic illness. An hour chatting over the garden gate is helping a lot. Then we drive back. All very safe, no contact with anyone. I accept that if the car breaks down things will be more difficult but it's quite a new car and, being a retired mechanic, I keep it in good nick - couple of friends own garages too so help would be easily available. My immediate concern is that I think my battery is suffering due to lack of use with all this lock down nonsense. In total it's getting about an hour's running a week. The car has never failed to start and cranks enthusiastically each time. The battery is an Enhanced Flooded type and I've been monitoring battery voltage for the last few weeks. Typically it will read around 12.5 to 12.6 volts if checked a few hours after returning home (so any surface charge effect will have dissipated) This, whilst not fantastic, is probably reasonable for a four+ year old battery but by the end of the week - might be 8 or 9 days sometimes - it's dropped to around 12.1 volts which is not so great at all. - Still spins up nice and fast and starts well though. The indicator window on top of the cells is staying black too. There is probably current drain going on with the alarm and all the other electronic nonsense in the car and I don't want to delve too deeply whilst our local auto sparks is closed so I would like to be able to leave it on the charger (which can do maintenance charging) when I'm not using it.
I'm going to try to post a picture when I'm finished, so let's assume that works? then the first thing to say is you can see that my battery charger is a "smart" charger which is suitable for connecting to batteries which are still in circuit with the car (says so in it's brochure/instructions.) I seem to remember in the previous post that a recommendation was made to connect the negative charger lead to that domed nut you can see just above the negative crock clip and I've come across a pdf for the Ateca which actually tells you to connect the negative charger lead here (positive clip to pos battery terminal).
The big question is though, has anyone tried doing this. I'm an "old school" mechanic so modern electronics are all a bit "smoke and mirrors" to me and, despite having read the Ateca manual I don't feel all that confident. - of course my car is not an Ateca, it's an Ibiza, but the setup looks visually the same. I noticed that my Ibiza manual says to connect the negative lead here if jump starting as does the Ateca, so I think they are the same. By the way, for those not "in the know", (and assuming I manage to post the picture!) if you look at the right battery terminal - which is the earth - can you see a black plastic thingy which is part of the cable terminal ? it's got a wee connector coming out of it's top. That's the sensor. Worth knowing too that if you try a jump start by connecting to both battery terminals (as you could, but would be best not too, on the old cars) you'll almost certainly be shelling out for a new one! The general info on jump starts now - if you dare? - is to go pos to pos on the two batteries but then chassis to chassis with the negative lead (I go engine block to engine block - when I'm feeling brave enough to try it, which isn't often) I believe this ensures that the sensor is not subject to a reverse current.
So, after all that, will I be Ok to connect my charger's pos crock to the battery pos and charger neg crock to that big domed earth nut on the inner wing - you can see it in the picture just above the charger's neg crock connector. Thanks in advance for any help.
For anyone who's not too sure what I'm talking about here's quite a good wee introduction: https://www.samarins.com/glossary/battery-sensor.html
We are old so pretty much observing lock down. However we are both fit and as healthy as most of our age so we go walks etc all observing the proper distancing. Don't use the car for any of it though. Once a week we drive for half an hour across the city to a small town just outside the city limits to give support - observing strict distancing - to a family member who is recovering from a psychotic illness. An hour chatting over the garden gate is helping a lot. Then we drive back. All very safe, no contact with anyone. I accept that if the car breaks down things will be more difficult but it's quite a new car and, being a retired mechanic, I keep it in good nick - couple of friends own garages too so help would be easily available. My immediate concern is that I think my battery is suffering due to lack of use with all this lock down nonsense. In total it's getting about an hour's running a week. The car has never failed to start and cranks enthusiastically each time. The battery is an Enhanced Flooded type and I've been monitoring battery voltage for the last few weeks. Typically it will read around 12.5 to 12.6 volts if checked a few hours after returning home (so any surface charge effect will have dissipated) This, whilst not fantastic, is probably reasonable for a four+ year old battery but by the end of the week - might be 8 or 9 days sometimes - it's dropped to around 12.1 volts which is not so great at all. - Still spins up nice and fast and starts well though. The indicator window on top of the cells is staying black too. There is probably current drain going on with the alarm and all the other electronic nonsense in the car and I don't want to delve too deeply whilst our local auto sparks is closed so I would like to be able to leave it on the charger (which can do maintenance charging) when I'm not using it.
I'm going to try to post a picture when I'm finished, so let's assume that works? then the first thing to say is you can see that my battery charger is a "smart" charger which is suitable for connecting to batteries which are still in circuit with the car (says so in it's brochure/instructions.) I seem to remember in the previous post that a recommendation was made to connect the negative charger lead to that domed nut you can see just above the negative crock clip and I've come across a pdf for the Ateca which actually tells you to connect the negative charger lead here (positive clip to pos battery terminal).
The big question is though, has anyone tried doing this. I'm an "old school" mechanic so modern electronics are all a bit "smoke and mirrors" to me and, despite having read the Ateca manual I don't feel all that confident. - of course my car is not an Ateca, it's an Ibiza, but the setup looks visually the same. I noticed that my Ibiza manual says to connect the negative lead here if jump starting as does the Ateca, so I think they are the same. By the way, for those not "in the know", (and assuming I manage to post the picture!) if you look at the right battery terminal - which is the earth - can you see a black plastic thingy which is part of the cable terminal ? it's got a wee connector coming out of it's top. That's the sensor. Worth knowing too that if you try a jump start by connecting to both battery terminals (as you could, but would be best not too, on the old cars) you'll almost certainly be shelling out for a new one! The general info on jump starts now - if you dare? - is to go pos to pos on the two batteries but then chassis to chassis with the negative lead (I go engine block to engine block - when I'm feeling brave enough to try it, which isn't often) I believe this ensures that the sensor is not subject to a reverse current.
So, after all that, will I be Ok to connect my charger's pos crock to the battery pos and charger neg crock to that big domed earth nut on the inner wing - you can see it in the picture just above the charger's neg crock connector. Thanks in advance for any help.