Guide - Changing Cam Chain Tensioner Gasket

I changed mine today on my Leon and thought I would right up a thread since we don't have one on SCN.

Quite an easy job to undertake, took me no more than an hour to complete.

You will need the gasket (OEM Part No. 058 198 217). Got mine from Audi Perth today as nor Seat or VW had one in stock. I am not using a new valve cover gasket but you are recommended to change it if its been disturbed. Also I am not using the special compression tool as I just used a long bolt instead.

Please note I am not a qualilified mechanic by any means and am pretty much self taught when it come to engines but had no issues when doing this.



1) Firstly remove the top cover for the cam belt along with the coil packs and relevant wiring from the top of the cam cover so all the cam cover bolts are clearly visible. Remove spark plugs.



2) Remove cam cover by removing the 10mm bolts around its edge and the 3 on top of the cover itself. Remove cam cover gasket.



3) Stick a long screwdriver down the bore of piston number 1 (closest to drivers side) then using a 16mm spanner on the top cam shaft bolt turn the engine clockwise until the screwdriver comes up and reaches its highest point (This is top dead centre). At this point the cam chain tensioner should be fully extended. Now if you don't have the cam tensioner compressor tool instead use a suitable long bolt which which will screw into the hole. Screw it in until you feel it tighten then stop ( do not overtighten ).



4) Remove the 4 torx bolt holding the cam tensioner to the head.



It will now rise away form the head leaving adequate room to get to the gasket and half moon. I used a small screwdriver to manipulate them out of position.



Old gasket and half moon removed


5) Make sure surfaces between where the new gasket is located are clean by using brake cleaner (or just a rag). Drop the half moon into position and make sure its located correctly then slide in the new gasket from the side also taking time to make sure its located correctly.

6) Replace the 4 torx screws making sure you tighten them down evenly as to spread the load then remove the compressor tool or long screw (don't forget about it). Replace cam cover gasket and then cam cover making sure you tighten the bolts in numerous stages begining from the centre outwards to achieve and good fit.



7) Replace the top timing belt cover along with spark plugs, wiring and coil packs and anything else that you took of at the beginning to gain access to the cam cover.



8) Start her up, make sure your cam chain tensioner is not rattling its head off but it will be a wee bit noisy for a second or two. Leave it on idle for a bit to allow for any leaks to appear if any.

If all is good then its job done

I took mine for a nice run and its all fine and no leaks from tensioner or cam cover gaskets. If your not replacing the cam cover gasket it is recommended you use sealent when refitting but I didn't simply because I didn't have any and i'm planning on painting my cam cover in near future so will replace it then.

Thanks guys!!

S3 Nattie said:

Giving me more info on the job. How tight was it to turn the engine on the cam, seen some threads were they just could turn it. I was going to do what you have done to get TDC but doesnt the cams also having a timing mark on them.

Nathan

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Yeah it was quite tight even though the plugs were out but got it turned. Yeah the timing marks were there but you can't argue with the screwdriver method like lol.

S3 Nattie said:

I think as I have to remove the tensioner itself I will time the cam with the 16 rollers between the 2 cams and the screw driver TDC method.

You think that should be enough timing to remove the tensioner and know the timing is right when I put the new one in.

Nathan

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Yeah the screwdriver is just a primary guide, when actually removing the tensioner from the chain a little bit more is required as the intake cam has to me removed also. That link you supplied for me in earlier thread seems to be pretty good http://www.passatworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=215732 so I would use that as a guide.

S3 Nattie said:

Y
Or this is easier to understand

http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=212893

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Yeah that one is all you need to line up the marks for the timing belt, that first link seems so unnecessarily over complicated.

No probs well let us know how you get on with it.

7 lb/ft 0r 9.5nm mate.

Not sure on the type of threads, i had a fair collection of long bolts so just picked out one that fitted, put some tape round it and kept in my toolbox for future need. It had a 10mm head on it that much i'm sure off. Obviously, to me, buying a special tool which is jut a threaded bolt seems a but pointless but if you have concerns you probably better off getting one.