Good day fellow petrol heads.
So I've searched around and can't seem to find anything relevant.
I recently replaced my crank breather as it was cracked and sounded silly loud, think Honda driver at 9k in boost, pipe fell to bits when removing it and I'm sure no debris fell inside the crankcase.
So I took it for a test drive up the street, and it felt amazing, however when I stamped on the loud pedal it flew but engine also cut out, prior to this the car had been running rather rich, could smell fuel inside the cabin occassionally.
It did used to have a drawback (tuner said its a stock thing) at 3750-4k it would loose power then kick back in. He pulled the file up on his laptop and it basically looked like my "map" was basically a car park job, it had the same drop in power as the original just at extra 10% power increase roughly.
Should I remove the fuel rail and fit a bam rail and maf? Allegedly the car had r8 coils and injectors when I swapped it for my ep3, but beggining to have many doubts as old owner was a bit of a tw@ and not helpful at all.
My local tuner is around 30miles away, I'm happy to call in and have the car tuned again as it does have fmic straight piped 3" downpipe and 2.5" system.
No engine lights are on or came on, I started the car again after it cut out and it was fine didn't seem like it was gonna stall or anything.
I'll be pulling the plugs for a look as the last ones, that came in the car, were darker than my sense of humour.
I fitted Cupra R plugs apparently looking back on my ebay account.
Whats likely to be the issue, I do have an obd2 reader (stated 21psi when I had the vaccum leak). Could it be over boosting now?
I also had to tape up the pipe into the n45 valve (or whatever its called). I have a catch can and delete kit which I was gonna install before getting the tune as sensors will need disabled etc.
Whats my best step?
Idles at around 850-900rpm when warm on a cold start she sits at around 1250 for maybe 90seconds upto 3 minutes depending how cold it is.
Could my ecu have learned to run with the issues and just a case of it "learning" note when I had the leak I rarely went above 3750 as it has a tonne of torque (feels like a eco tuned pd130).
Any help appreciated, really wanna enjoy my girl and give her the thrashing my wife loves
.
Thank you in advance folks.
So I've searched around and can't seem to find anything relevant.
I recently replaced my crank breather as it was cracked and sounded silly loud, think Honda driver at 9k in boost, pipe fell to bits when removing it and I'm sure no debris fell inside the crankcase.
So I took it for a test drive up the street, and it felt amazing, however when I stamped on the loud pedal it flew but engine also cut out, prior to this the car had been running rather rich, could smell fuel inside the cabin occassionally.
It did used to have a drawback (tuner said its a stock thing) at 3750-4k it would loose power then kick back in. He pulled the file up on his laptop and it basically looked like my "map" was basically a car park job, it had the same drop in power as the original just at extra 10% power increase roughly.
Should I remove the fuel rail and fit a bam rail and maf? Allegedly the car had r8 coils and injectors when I swapped it for my ep3, but beggining to have many doubts as old owner was a bit of a tw@ and not helpful at all.
My local tuner is around 30miles away, I'm happy to call in and have the car tuned again as it does have fmic straight piped 3" downpipe and 2.5" system.
No engine lights are on or came on, I started the car again after it cut out and it was fine didn't seem like it was gonna stall or anything.
I'll be pulling the plugs for a look as the last ones, that came in the car, were darker than my sense of humour.
I fitted Cupra R plugs apparently looking back on my ebay account.
Whats likely to be the issue, I do have an obd2 reader (stated 21psi when I had the vaccum leak). Could it be over boosting now?
I also had to tape up the pipe into the n45 valve (or whatever its called). I have a catch can and delete kit which I was gonna install before getting the tune as sensors will need disabled etc.
Whats my best step?
Idles at around 850-900rpm when warm on a cold start she sits at around 1250 for maybe 90seconds upto 3 minutes depending how cold it is.
Could my ecu have learned to run with the issues and just a case of it "learning" note when I had the leak I rarely went above 3750 as it has a tonne of torque (feels like a eco tuned pd130).
Any help appreciated, really wanna enjoy my girl and give her the thrashing my wife loves
.Thank you in advance folks.
