JamJay's 290bhp Ovni Yellow LCR - Latest: SOLD & Replaced With A BMW 335i Cabrio

Which Cat-Back System Should I Choose?

  • Longlife Custom 3" Non-Resonated - £429 Fitted

    Votes: 12 12.4%
  • Hayward & Scott (Essex) 3" Non-Resonated - £550 Fitted

    Votes: 5 5.2%
  • Blueflame 2.76" Non-Resonated - £400 Delivered

    Votes: 16 16.5%
  • Milltek 2.76" > 3" Non-Resonated - £400 Delivered

    Votes: 38 39.2%
  • Powerflow Custom 3" Non-Resonated - £330 Fitted

    Votes: 26 26.8%

  • Total voters
    97

8bit

Active Member
Feb 11, 2010
3,401
3
Aberdeen
Hmm that's strange but could this be down to the brand? The 15mm I have coming are second hand and have been fitted so with any luck they'll go right on. Did you try sanding your hubs a little or using a wire brush? Perhaps caked on brake dust was preventing it?

The 10mm H&Rs went on perfectly, slipped right on and they sit flush. I don't blame you with the jack, I hate the OE jack, it's very dangerous and especially with coilovers. I have found that because the shock absorbers are shorter and stiffer, when you jack up one wheel, the other wheel on the opposite side lifts from the ground also which will make the car fall off of the jack. If I could get hold of another OE jack, it would be a lot safer.

I have two different pairs of spacers from two different sources/brands, neither would go all the way onto the hub. Didn't try cleaning the centre bit of the hub for fear of knocking the car off the jack but will be getting a trolley jack come payday and having another go soon so will try that, Lee did suggest that too. There did seem to be a bit of gunk on them, not quite like brake dust, more like some sort of grease - i seem to remember reading or hearing somewhere that this was necessary on the hub face which meets the wheel?
 

JamJay

California Bound
It's not totally necessary but it stops the wheel bonding to the hub. When I first got my car and tried to take a wheel off, it was stuck solid so I had to kick the tyre from underneath the car and have someone ready to catch the wheel when it popped off. Since then I have greased the hubs a little and never had an issue.
 

Willie

LCR Track car
Aug 6, 2004
8,939
1
Sunny Scotland
It's not totally necessary but it stops the wheel bonding to the hub. When I first got my car and tried to take a wheel off, it was stuck solid so I had to kick the tyre from underneath the car and have someone ready to catch the wheel when it popped off. Since then I have greased the hubs a little and never had an issue.
YEE HAR cowboy, lol
I had to use a bar in between the alloy spokes on my new car as this had never been copper greased, now that's cowboy stylee
 

JamJay

California Bound
YEE HAR cowboy, lol
I had to use a bar in between the alloy spokes on my new car as this had never been copper greased, now that's cowboy stylee

Real pain isn't it, I hate seized stuff, bolts more though.

This is how we roll, Willie.

redneck_street_mechanic.jpg
 

8bit

Active Member
Feb 11, 2010
3,401
3
Aberdeen
It's not totally necessary but it stops the wheel bonding to the hub. When I first got my car and tried to take a wheel off, it was stuck solid so I had to kick the tyre from underneath the car and have someone ready to catch the wheel when it popped off. Since then I have greased the hubs a little and never had an issue.

OK so a bit of copper grease on the hub and a bit more on the spacer where it meets the wheel might be a decent idea then? Can this stuff be bought from Halfords or the like?
 

Aimez

Active Member
It's not totally necessary but it stops the wheel bonding to the hub. When I first got my car and tried to take a wheel off, it was stuck solid so I had to kick the tyre from underneath the car and have someone ready to catch the wheel when it popped off. Since then I have greased the hubs a little and never had an issue.

Mine was the same when I tried to for my rear spacer I had to hit the wheel a few times took all afternoon to come off!
 

Phillc

Love is....Yellow
Apr 23, 2007
4,170
20
Pershore, worcestershire
My H&R fronts went straight on but the rears didn't go all the way on, it was as if the centre holes where a few mm to small but the bolts fitted in so when i did them up they slipped on.
 

JamJay

California Bound
The spacers are all now on, 10mm at the front and 15mm at the rear. The H&R's slipped on to both axles with ease, it's strange how some people have issues with this.

Anyway I am trying to get some good pics to post up but the weather has been awful and the car is half way through a detail (ran out of time) so that needs to be done before I venture out into the elements again. The stance of the car look spot on now, the rear wheels stick out slightly more than the front making the car look quite aggressive. Pics to follow this weekend I hope.
 

t0m

LCR 225
Apr 29, 2007
8,133
7
Kent
The spacers are all now on, 10mm at the front and 15mm at the rear. The H&R's slipped on to both axles with ease, it's strange how some people have issues with this.

Anyway I am trying to get some good pics to post up but the weather has been awful and the car is half way through a detail (ran out of time) so that needs to be done before I venture out into the elements again. The stance of the car look spot on now, the rear wheels stick out slightly more than the front making the car look quite aggressive. Pics to follow this weekend I hope.

Nice work. I've spent way too much this month, think the spacers might have to wait till I get the exhaust/remap in December after crimbo shopping and and my mates 25th in Barcelona has passed. Frustrating times for the car, lol :lol:

Looking forward to your pics!
 

JamJay

California Bound
New Spacers, New Stance.

Right'o, as promised here are the pictures of the new spacer arrangement. If you compare the shot that I took of the car after the coilovers were fitted, you can see a difference in the way the wheels sit now. I also took a few extra snaps as there haven't been much since she got low.

I just want to take this opportunity to advise anyone who fits spacers to make sure that they are tightened properly, even a bolt that is loose by something as little as 2mm will cause you problems and knocking noises. Luckily for me I read horror stories on the internet before I fitted them so I knew the procedure but it's just a friendly warning.

- Firstly, wire brush the hub and copper grease the faces of the hub, wheel & spacer
- Fit the spacer and refit the wheel when the hub is in the air, copper grease the bolts and tighten it as much as you can and make sure that the spacer is sitting flush to the wheel and hub.
- Drop the car back down to the ground and tighten the bolts up properly, this will lock everything in place as it would normally without spacers.
- Take the car for a drive, approx 10miles I would say and return home. Check the wheel bolts, you will find that they might have worked loose, this can be normal after fitting spacers if you didn't do them up 'hulk' tight.
- Retighten the bolts, go for another quick drive and listen for any knocks or scrubbing sounds. There should be none at all however, if there are and this has only come on since fitting the spacers then check: If the wheel is scrubbing on the arch or if the spacer is sitting flush. If you have any doubt, remove the spacer, wire brush the hub and inner part of the wheel and refit all parts making sure that everything is extra tight.
- Happy days :)

Before:

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After:

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DSCF0075.jpg


DSCF0074.jpg


DSCF0072.jpg


DSCF0067-1.jpg


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P.S. Car was just detailed using:

Meguiars NXT Shampoo
Meguiars Clay Bar & Speed Detailer Lubricant
AutoGlym Super Resin Polish
Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze
Chemical Guys Jetseal 109
Collinite 476s Carnauba Wax
Dodo Juice Red Mist to follow in the next 24/48hrs.
 
Last edited:

t0m

LCR 225
Apr 29, 2007
8,133
7
Kent
Good write up mate! Spacers are spot on. I'm definitely going 10mm front, 15 rear now.

Your car is gleaming there aswell, good job :)
 

jonjay

50 Years of 911
Jun 27, 2005
5,843
1
Essex
Do not use the Red Mist Jay. I know I have said in the past it is safe to use after 24/48 hours but I am really not sure now. General rule of thumb is if you use wax, just use waxed base products and pure sealants that dont contain solvents.

Nice update and liking the stance.
 

Aimez

Active Member
Normal for spacers to come loose?! I check mine after a couple of weeks (I do very low mileage like you) and they were fine check a year later still fine. I was told NOT to let copper grease get near the bolts as they may cause them to come loose (unlikely but still) only out it on the hubs?

Looks great look froward to seeing the change at the meet then!
 

JamJay

California Bound
Do not use the Red Mist Jay. I know I have said in the past it is safe to use after 24/48 hours but I am really not sure now. General rule of thumb is if you use wax, just use waxed base products and pure sealants that dont contain solvents.

Nice update and liking the stance.

What's up with the Red Mist then? You used to rave about this stuff so something bad must have happened for you to stop using it :shrug:

I still use it, have done for many months now and all is ok.

Normal for spacers to come loose?! I check mine after a couple of weeks (I do very low mileage like you) and they were fine check a year later still fine. I was told NOT to let copper grease get near the bolts as they may cause them to come loose (unlikely but still) only out it on the hubs?

Looks great look froward to seeing the change at the meet then!

Yes Aimee, the bolts often work loose when fitted for the first time, I've had this on the last two cars, not sure why though, perhaps it's the new position of the wheel on the hub. I'm not talking 'x'mm or anything major but they won't be super tight. Maybe because you haven't greased your bolts, they have stuck on there however you run the risk of the bolts sticking in the hub if the wheels aren't removed often. Have you tried removing a seized wheel bolt at the side of the road to change a tyre...not going to happen. I use a little copper grease and have never had an issue.
 
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