How to fit strut bars

[blackdream]

So I'm going to have OMP front and rear strut bars on my mk2. I heard different opinions about install, some people says to have the car lifted before install them, other say to have it on the ground. Who is right?
Thanks

 

[ather`s]

all the lads and lass`s in the mk2 section who have fitted strut braces, i belive they have fitted them while the car is on the ground. cruiser87 has done a "how too" for a 1.4 ! very easy to follow aswell.

 

[Mat Lock]

if you have a 16v ABF then you might need to adjust a few things. I went to do it a few weeks back before Inters. A 20 min job turned in to a giving up and doing it another day...still to be chosen haha

The brake fluid tank needs to be relocated and the alarm sensor (if the cable isn't long enough) needs to be rotated too.

Also the rear end you need to cut/file/chop the little metal flap that stops the brace from fitting around the mount

They didn't make it easy it seems

 

[vngtx]

i fitted mine while it was in the air so when you put it back on the floor the struts push inwards putting tension on the brace. really should put all 4 bolts in each side though.....

 

[BubbleBoy]

So the best way to do it is on the ground?! Are going to fit my omp strut bars next week

 

[vngtx]

id say do it in the air because the brace holds the suspension where it is when installing it. if you already have tension on it (when on ground) then it wont make any difference. do it when it when the chassis is flexed (off ground) it will have even more tension (which is what they are for, to stop the struts moving and flexing round corners) and the flex will be completely gone and will handle like its on rails doing 50 at roundabouts.

 

[M1KEH]

I'd fit it whilst on flat and level ground as that is where you set the tracking and camber etc.

 

[m0rk]

id say do it in the air because the brace holds the suspension where it is when installing it. if you already have tension on it (when on ground) then it wont make any difference. do it when it when the chassis is flexed (off ground) it will have even more tension (which is what they are for, to stop the struts moving and flexing round corners) and the flex will be completely gone and will handle like its on rails doing 50 at roundabouts.

utterly utterly wrong.

Fit on the ground. You don't want to be driving with it permanently trying to shear the piss weak bolts.

 

[pipster]

I'd fit it whilst on flat and level ground as that is where you set the tracking and camber etc.

sounds sensible to me!
I fitted an OMP 1 piece one to my mk2 jetta GTI once on my dinner half hour! I just drilled and tapped the strut tops to M6 as the strut tops are easily thick enough to get a solid fix....makes for easy removal too! I did have to lever the expansion tank to one side and make a new bracket for the throttle cable later though!

I would have thought that if your strut tops move whilst jacking up, you've got serious chassis problems??? I thought you'd only get a slight variation under hard cornering!

 

[blackdream]

well guys it seems there are different opinions on how do it.

For sure I noticed that when on jack the chassis use to have some flex: for example if I put jack under front right side and lift the car, then open the door and try to close it again then I notice that there is no the same perfect fitment as when the car is on the ground.

I'll try to put the bars on the chassis with the car on the ground and mark positions on the frame. Then I'll lift the car and observe how much difference there will be. If it is just few millimeters then maybe I can fit them with car lifted so to have just a bit of tension on them (like when people use bars with the nut and tight them to have just a bit of tension). If there will be a lot of difference then I'll better looking into this before making holes.

 

[blackdream]

Ok i checked holes alignment with car on the ground and in the air, well there is actually no difference, I start to think this bar is just for show and I'll need one with the nut in the middle for real performance upgrade