Steve's Black Leon Cupra R

[stevekkk1]

hi had my LCR nearly 3 years now so thought it was about time to creat a thread for it, especially as i have brought a load of parts from rob dons cupra. i brought my leon march 2009 with 70,000 on it. since then i have fitted a mitec cat back exhaust system, boost gauge, new head unit and fitted an amp and sub in the boot. i have also upgraded the breaks to ebc grooved and dimpled discs and red stuff pads, rear wiper has been replaced with fabia wiper arm. now done 87,000

 

[stevekkk1]

pic of when i first brought the car

 

[MATTCR]

Nice Leon

Can I ask though, why do you say "Brought" instead of "Bought" ?

Cheers

 

[Smoki333]

'a loud clonk when i hit the breaks hard and then again when i pull away, thought it might have been the collapsed suspension top mounts but replaced them and noise still there'

'both front lower arm rear bushes are starting to perrish'

Sounds like that could be the fix as the arms are moving due to worn bushes.

Do you have proof of the remap? what boost is it hitting which will tell you if its mapped.

 

[stevekkk1]

sorry my spelling is bad

i dont have proof but when i BOUGHT it '310' was written all over it and i asked what that ment and the guy said it was like that when he bought it and he rung jabba and they told him. i have the print outs from my dyno run which i will try and upload later bu the boost peaks at 1.5bar @ 3500rmp then slowly drops to about 0.9bar @7000rpm, but will scan the printout in later

ref the lower arms they arnt that perrished but you may be right

thanx

 

[Mark300zx]

You could try Lucas power steering additive, may fix/reduce, but hey it's hell of a lot cheaper!!!

 

[big eck]

Pmsl the spelling police are in force again I see.

Good looking car mate.

 

[stevekkk1]

You could try Lucas power steering additive, may fix/reduce, but hey it's hell of a lot cheaper!!!

thanx iv looked up this stuff and it only garentees to stop leaks from seals and mine is from a pipe union but i mas still try it as it is alot cheaper

 

[stevekkk1]

heres the dyno print out

 

[stevekkk1]

got the wheels the other day and fitted, just a quick pic of them on, will take more when i next clean it

 

[EL]

Nice progress. Now lower that beast I'm sure you will get the bits fixed. With regards to the drop in power, check things like the connection to the n75 valve and also the valve itself. Did jkm run a boost leak test? Could be a simple split hose somewhere, check the TIP and also the pcv system as they are also prone to leaking

 

[stevekkk1]

Thanx, iv got front coilovers cuming soon and new rear suspension, again second hand from robdon so that may take me a while to set up. im not sure if they did a boost leak test, im just waiting to get some more money and then ill start looking into the power problem and start replacing pipes. how will i know if the n75 valve is faulty? also what is tip? thanx again

 

[big rich]

The knocking when setting off and braking will defo be front arm rear bushes, mines doing it at the min so gonna order powerflex ones

 

[EL]

Sorry got use to talking in code lol TIP = turbo inlet pipe (main hose from the maf to the turbo). Have you got vagcom? If you could run some logs we may be able to see some signs to point you in the right direction to what's wrong

 

[James23Parkin]

'a loud clonk when i hit the breaks hard and then again when i pull away, thought it might have been the collapsed suspension top mounts but replaced them and noise still there'

'both front lower arm rear bushes are starting to perrish'

Sounds like that could be the fix as the arms are moving due to worn bushes.

Do you have proof of the remap? what boost is it hitting which will tell you if its mapped.

Hey Steve,

I've had this clunking on a couple of ocassions over the years. It's less likely to be the bushes; that would more than likely cause wheel judder, clinks on turn in, etc. It's your brake pads. As the pads start to wear, and if there isn't enough copper grease in situ the piston can sometimes seperate from the back of the pad. The clunk is the piston hitting the back of the pad, which then makes abrupt contact with the disc . This does not mean your pads are immediately on their way out, so don't worry about that. If the clunking bothers you, then slide the pads out and put some copper grease on the back of the pads. This will keep contact and avoid the clunks...

Your new wheels look really nice! Hope you get the car running as it should. Out of interest, how many miles has your MAF done? They're only good for around 40,000 miles or so, then it can sometimes run as if it's ever so slightly down on power (boost wise).

James

 

[stevekkk1]

Sorry got use to talking in code lol TIP = turbo inlet pipe (main hose from the maf to the turbo). Have you got vagcom? If you could run some logs we may be able to see some signs to point you in the right direction to what's wrong

i have a mate that has vagcom i can ask him to do some, what would you want logs of?

 

[stevekkk1]

Hey Steve,

I've had this clunking on a couple of ocassions over the years. It's less likely to be the bushes; that would more than likely cause wheel judder, clinks on turn in, etc. It's your brake pads. As the pads start to wear, and if there isn't enough copper grease in situ the piston can sometimes seperate from the back of the pad. The clunk is the piston hitting the back of the pad, which then makes abrupt contact with the disc . This does not mean your pads are immediately on their way out, so don't worry about that. If the clunking bothers you, then slide the pads out and put some copper grease on the back of the pads. This will keep contact and avoid the clunks...

Your new wheels look really nice! Hope you get the car running as it should. Out of interest, how many miles has your MAF done? They're only good for around 40,000 miles or so, then it can sometimes run as if it's ever so slightly down on power (boost wise).

James

i dont think it is the pads as when i fitted the new pads i put copper slip on them and also why would it clonk when i pull away? but i do need new pads again soon so will make sure i copper grease them up good.

i havnt changed the maf since iv had it but jkm cleaned it and also did a dyno run with it disconnected, they said there wasnt a problem with it, but may still be worth changing when i get the money

thanx

 

[stevekkk1]

parts have arrived from rob don, got front mounted intercooler, front coil overs, rear shocks and rear arb

just checked and my car doesnt have a rear arb, rob had a cupra so im guessing their rear suspension is different to lcr??

also he had a custom setup for his intercooler (see link below) and not sure how thats going to fit on mine with the battery where it is

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?p=3392347&highlight=intercooler#post3392347

 

[RDS]

LCR's and LC's dont have rear arbs, they're after market parts. I've got one on mine, they make quite a difference. In regards to the cooler, just move the battery into the boot

 

[stevekkk1]

LCR's and LC's dont have rear arbs, they're after market parts. I've got one on mine, they make quite a difference. In regards to the cooler, just move the battery into the boot

where do you attach it then? do you havd to remove any of the original suspension? surely as the rear is a fixed beam just adding an arb wouldnt make a difference, i would have thought u would have to remove the fixed beam.

i think moving the battery to the boot will be too much hassel, ill just try and work round it

thanx