Another problem, weird window closing.

dm222 · Nov 7, 2015

Hello,

Now I have another problem, this time the problem is with the rear window on the driver's side.
When opening it works well, but when closing, even if you hold the button down, it does nothing, it only closes 0,5cm each time.
I have to press the button 30 or 40x to close the window.
I thought it was deprogrammed but I disconnected the battery and then reconnected, programmed again and it is the same.
Sometimes it works well, sometimes something even weirder happens, it closes well but when it gets to the top starts opening again.
Does anyone know what it happening?

Like this but only closing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03uVCisqhT8

Thank you for your help.

Fmxvxx · Nov 8, 2015

The seals have perished get some silicone spray and spray it down the channels lift the window up and down to get the lubrication along the entire length of the channels if this doesn't work you'll need to replace the window seals.

dm222 · Nov 8, 2015

Fmxvxx said:
The seals have perished get some silicone spray and spray it down the channels lift the window up and down to get the lubrication along the entire length of the channels if this doesn't work you'll need to replace the window seals.

Thank you for your answer.
I tought of that yesterday but WD40 didn't solve it, do you mean with the windows closed or open? I saw on the manual that the car has indeed a system that stops the windows when there is resistance closing to prevent things like injury.
But in the manual also says that when this happens the window stops closing and opens, wich is not the case, it just stops after 1cm, and only closing.
Do you had a similar problem or know someone who had and it was the seals?

One curious thing is: sometimes it works well and when it works it closes totally, I mean, it never stops after 10cm or 20cm. Either it works fully or only 1cm.

Someone told me it could be the electric windows relay does anyone know where is that located?

Fmxvxx · Nov 8, 2015

WD40 is not silicone spray, if it was the anti trap function it will go back down after hitting its resistance value if this is not the case then it's unlikely to be blocked channels the relays will be in the interior fuse box drivers side just below the OBD port.

dm222 · Nov 8, 2015

Fmxvxx said:
WD40 is not silicone spray, if it was the anti trap function it will go back down after hitting its resistance value if this is not the case then it's unlikely to be blocked channels the relays will be in the interior fuse box drivers side just below the OBD port.

Will look at that tomorow. Do yoy know if there is one relay for each window? Because only one has this problem.

Big Vinny · Nov 8, 2015

I have had this happen to me 5 times. All but the drivers window motor have failed and the passenger door window motor has now failed twice.

I have the latest eBay replacement one in front of me part number 6RO 959 802 N. Its made by a company called Arvin Meritor.

Getting the door card off is best done with the "how to" on this site

dm222 · Nov 8, 2015

Big Vinny said:
I have had this happen to me 5 times. All but the drivers window motor have failed and the passenger door window motor has now failed twice.

I have the latest eBay replacement one in front of me part number 6RO 959 802 N. Its made by a company called Arvin Meritor.

Getting the door card off is best done with the "how to" on this site

What were your symptoms?

Big Vinny · Nov 8, 2015

I ve given the wrong part number. The pn above is for the drivers door. The fron passenger side one is 6 RO 959 801 B - just taken it out.

The problem is the controller is built into the top of the window winder motor and cant be changed separately.

The symptoms are:

1 The window winds part or all the way down on either switch
2 The window will not wind up normally on either switch (proving its not one of the switches)
3 To get the window to wind up you need to jog it up by pressing down first and just as it starts to move down pull the switch up. It will come up a couple of cm. Do this lots of times and you will get the window all the way up
4 One developed a mind of its own and would go up and down on its own particularly around corners.

Getting the door panel off and on is a real swine of a job. You will need lots of long Torx and trim panel removal tools. An eBay secondhand motor is about £35-£45. Make sure you get a UK spec motor as the one I got from Germany goes down for up and up for down

Big Vinny · Nov 8, 2015

This is the offending passenger door front side item that needs replacing. They only fit one side as they are mirror image on the other side. The drivers door motor has a lot more electrical contacts in the connector presumably to control the 4 switches on the drivers door:

http://s36.photobucket.com/user/bigvinny3/media/IMGP0518.jpg.html

The job is made a lot easier by cutting slots in the base of the door card to replace the card "up and over" rather than try and align the 2 bolts with the 2 vertical bars at the base of the door.

This is my least favourite job I hate pulling the flimsy plastic door trim and clips apart.

dm222 · Nov 8, 2015

Big Vinny said:
This is the offending passenger door front side item that needs replacing. They only fit one side as they are mirror image on the other side. The drivers door motor has a lot more electrical contacts in the connector presumably to control the 4 switches on the drivers door:

http://s36.photobucket.com/user/bigvinny3/media/IMGP0518.jpg.html

The job is made a lot easier by cutting slots in the base of the door card to replace the card "up and over" rather than try and align the 2 bolts with the 2 vertical bars at the base of the door.

This is my least favourite job I hate pulling the flimsy plastic door trim and clips apart.

The problem is a little different.
- Once I start the engine it looses the "closing" memory.
- Can't reset the memory with the engine on but I can reset the settings with the engine off and it works well untill I start the engine again.

Made a video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOjUD1EkvE0

dm222 · Nov 8, 2015

I have a broken mirror switch, could it be related or are they two separated systems?

Fast-shipping-Factory-direct-sales-New-high-quility-adjust-knob-side-mirror-switch-for-Seat-ibiza.jpg

dm222 · Nov 8, 2015

RUM4MO · Nov 8, 2015

Big Vinny said:
Make sure you get a UK spec motor as the one I got from Germany goes down for up and up for down

Big Vinny, that comment and part number is only relevant for RHD cars, dm222 comes from a LHD market area, so he will need a LHD LHS front motor assembly (as opposed to you needing a RHD RHS front motor assembly). I'd guess that will have been why your "drivers door" switch from ebay in Germany did not work correctly.

RUM4MO · Nov 8, 2015

dm222 said:
...

I'd still think that your best plan will be to get hold of another driver's door switch as your one might still be the cause of your problems. Remember, these switches do have a permanent supply going to them, it is normally only when the battery has been removed that its memory is lost.

Or make sure that there is a permanent supply going to that switch, if not check the conduit (rubber tube or sleeve) that goes from the door pillar to the door as a wire might have broken.

dm222 · Nov 8, 2015

RUM4MO said:
I'd still think that your best plan will be to get hold of another driver's door switch as your one might still be the cause of your problems. Remember, these switches do have a permanent supply going to them, it is normally only when the battery has been removed that its memory is lost.

Or make sure that there is a permanent supply going to that switch, if not check the conduit (rubber tube or sleeve) that goes from the door pillar to the door as a wire might have broken.

I already bought one, it arrives tomorow but I don't have much hope it will be the problem, with it removed the result is the same. Also because it only happens on the rear left window.
I believe it's the motor.

Please if you can watch this video. I believe the problem is not the memory, but something else.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOjUD1EkvE0

dm222 · Nov 9, 2015

RUM4MO said:
Big Vinny, that comment and part number is only relevant for RHD cars, dm222 comes from a LHD market area, so he will need a LHD LHS front motor assembly (as opposed to you needing a RHD RHS front motor assembly). I'd guess that will have been why your "drivers door" switch from ebay in Germany did not work correctly.

In my case is the rear left window, so is the same for both lhd and rhd, but the problem is there are so many versions...

Here it has two, but the 6R0959801B isn't even listed here for example so I don't know how reliable is this:
http://www.partsbase.org/seat/ibiza-st-ib-eu-2009-6j-9-000-001-95920-window-regulator-motor/

6R0959811
6R0959811D

Big Vinny · Nov 9, 2015

Yes -my comments all refer to a RHD UK spec 09 1.4SE 4 door. I have never had to replace a switch. All failures have been the complete window winder motor unit. The up for down German item was a replaced window winder motor unit as well

LHD drivers will im pretty sure need different pn's.

RUM4MO · Nov 9, 2015

dm222 said:
In my case is the rear left window, so is the same for both lhd and rhd, but the problem is there are so many versions...

Here it has two, but the 6R0959801B isn't even listed here for example so I don't know how reliable is this:
http://www.partsbase.org/seat/ibiza-st-ib-eu-2009-6j-9-000-001-95920-window-regulator-motor/

6R0959811
6R0959811D

Yes, that is crazy and does not make any sense, I can't think what is different as far as supplies to that motor is between ignition ON engine OFF and ignition ON engine ON.

This might end up being a "convenience control module" or is that BCM problem as I'd expect that that module is what controls when you can operate the windows. Remember, as soon as you switch the engine (and ignition) OFF, there is a period in time when you should be able to operate the windows, but after that period, or if a door has been opened, the windows will not operate - well that is the way VW used to have it working.

Sorry I got confused between the front and rear windows - I did not re-read the posting fully.

Window motor part number options/choices - one thing could be that VAG use more than one supplier and that these motors work best if "matched" so that they all are from the same supplier, second thing might be that some parts have been modified and work best if matched - though maybe not totally essential. These ideas come from me remembering that Ford central locking solenoids/motors were always said to need to be matched to work correctly all the time. Having said all that, if I were you, I would try to replace that rear LHS motor with one that has the same part number.

I still think that it could be down to the BCM - sorry as that will be a bit more expensive and will need you to check the exact coding of the one fitted to your car, and recode the next one to be the same as that - can be done using VCDS.

Just another question, have you scanned the car using VCDS to see if any problems are being reported with respect to the electric windows or BCM? (I don't know how much of the electric window system is "smart" so that faults can be logged, I'd not had that problem - yet!)

dm222 · Nov 9, 2015

RUM4MO said:
Yes, that is crazy and does not make any sense, I can't think what is different as far as supplies to that motor is between ignition ON engine OFF and ignition ON engine ON.

This might end up being a "convenience control module" or is that BCM problem as I'd expect that that module is what controls when you can operate the windows. Remember, as soon as you switch the engine (and ignition) OFF, there is a period in time when you should be able to operate the windows, but after that period, or if a door has been opened, the windows will not operate - well that is the way VW used to have it working.

Sorry I got confused between the front and rear windows - I did not re-read the posting fully.

Window motor part number options/choices - one thing could be that VAG use more than one supplier and that these motors work best if "matched" so that they all are from the same supplier, second thing might be that some parts have been modified and work best if matched - though maybe not totally essential. These ideas come from me remembering that Ford central locking solenoids/motors were always said to need to be matched to work correctly all the time. Having said all that, if I were you, I would try to replace that rear LHS motor with one that has the same part number.

I still think that it could be down to the BCM - sorry as that will be a bit more expensive and will need you to check the exact coding of the one fitted to your car, and recode the next one to be the same as that - can be done using VCDS.

Just another question, have you scanned the car using VCDS to see if any problems are being reported with respect to the electric windows or BCM? (I don't know how much of the electric window system is "smart" so that faults can be logged, I'd not had that problem - yet!)

I had an error in the electric window switch on the drivers side. I don't know if that is because I insisted a lot with the mirrors, since it only had occurred once.
Since I cleared the error it didn't came back.
Replaced the mirrors switch today, it wasn't that causing the problem.

Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 6R0-937-08x-09.clb
Control Module Part Number: 6R0 937 087 D HW: 6R0 937 087 D
Component and/or Version: BCM PQ25 H+4 H46 0207
Software Coding: 7C882BA88861250093300000760B1EC800C0400F608C0000200000000000
Work Shop Code: WSC 00020 261 55335
VCID: 3E73D873A9826EEEA6F-806B
1 Faults Found:

03589 - Switch for Driver Side Window Regulator
014 - Defective - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101110
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 239
Mileage: 124153 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2018.14.24
Time: 01:46:23

dm222 · Nov 20, 2015

it started working again a week ago. what happened?

Another problem, weird window closing.

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