1.8T rebuild

alias

Active Member
May 9, 2011
317
0
Essex
How much (an arbitrary figure will do) would one expect a full top and bottom end rebuild to cost? I'm talking best and worst case scenarios i.e. strip down, clean and rebuild being best; strip down, clean, replacement odds and ends and rebuild being worst.

I've seen a number of sites offering such services, but of course their prices are on a case by case basis.

I'm weighing up the pros/cons of rebuilding my AMK to as new standard and running my car for a number of years over selling it as is and buying a second hand Focus ST.

Many thanks!
 
Last edited:

bmwfiend

Guest
IMO, it's not worth rebuilding. You can buy the whole engine for peanuts in comparison to a rebuild where if you go for a cheapo, may even be worse than it currently is. You might as well wait till yours pops before chucking money at old rope. If tolerences are not correct or bits & pieces are scrimpt on then tis a waste of money...... Some argue that a rebuilt unit is never the same as the original factory unit...... Buy a ST!
 

alias

Active Member
May 9, 2011
317
0
Essex
I see your point (and it's one that I've debated with myself over too), however I like my car too much to want to sell and wish to do some power upgrades to keep her fresh. The thing with that is I do not trust the ConRods as far I can throw them. I'd like to forge the bottom end and figure it would be worth a rebuild while the engine is in bits.

As for a rebuild not being as good as a factory unit, that is probably true if a less than reputable outfit is used. However, I know from experience that a rebuild can be every bit as good as a newly manufacture engine.

I will be honest, a fair amount of man maths has been used to make this idea seem sensible!
 
Dec 29, 2010
1,115
0
Mids
Then rebuilding your original motor will also give you the security of it being the original lump you always trust and know, and the parts you use internally are also new with receipts rather than a 2nd hand engine you don't know and can't guarantee the work done was good


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 

alias

Active Member
May 9, 2011
317
0
Essex
It's not that there's anything wrong with my engine, as at 77,000 miles it's still tight as a drum and returning good mpg. Well for an LCR anyway! It's more that I want to keep it for a few more years and as the mileage creeps up its bound to start showing. I want to refresh it to as new condition with stronger guts and more power.

Anyway, we're digressing a bit now. Has anyone any idea how much such work is likely to cost as per my original question?

www.engine-shop.co.uk is a London based firm that offers a drive in/drive out service with a 5 year/60,000 mile guarantee. Has anyone had any previous experience with these guys?
 

ibizacupra

Jack-RIP my little Friend
Jul 25, 2001
31,333
19
glos.uk
I see your point (and it's one that I've debated with myself over too), however I like my car too much to want to sell and wish to do some power upgrades to keep her fresh. The thing with that is I do not trust the ConRods as far I can throw them. I'd like to forge the bottom end and figure it would be worth a rebuild while the engine is in bits.

As for a rebuild not being as good as a factory unit, that is probably true if a less than reputable outfit is used. However, I know from experience that a rebuild can be every bit as good as a newly manufacture engine.

I will be honest, a fair amount of man maths has been used to make this idea seem sensible!

Is it broken now? Why rebuld it if not?
Are you planning a big turbo build? in which case rods and a refresh would be prudent

What are your potential long term plans?
std rods on non spikey high boost decent std tunes should be ok..
 

alias

Active Member
May 9, 2011
317
0
Essex
Don't buy second hand engines IMO.

you don't know what abuse / service schedule they have been subject to. Invest your money in building it properly.

It wouldn't be a second hand unit, rather my engine would be removed and rebuilt. There would be no second hand element to it. Any bits needing replacement would be new, any used bits would be from the engine itself.

It isn't broken, although it is in as we speak having a funny noise from behind the engine front cover diagnosed! I have considered a GT28 BT build but I think it's cost prohibitive considering the value of the car. Otherwise it's Stage 2 map, FMIC and exhaust (leaving the manifold, TDP and cat as standard). A very conservative wish list given the engine work I'd like carried out, but when you say the standard rods 'should' be ok, along with people with similar set ups bending rods, it doesn't instil me with confidence. As I have stated in previous threads, from where I'm standing rod upgrades are essential to even minor power/torque hikes. I want absolute confidence in my engine regardless of how I drive it (within reason).

The way I see it, a rod upgrade is vital and if the engine is stripped down to that extent I may as well rebuild it for relatively little extra cost. I won't carry out any performance upgrades without forged rods.
 
Last edited:

bmwfiend

Guest
If you require that sort of confidence from an engine, perhaps a different manufacturer is for you...... The 1.8T platform is rarely regarded as 'reliable'! Even if it has been rebuilt.......
 

ibizacupra

Jack-RIP my little Friend
Jul 25, 2001
31,333
19
glos.uk
It wouldn't be a second hand unit, rather my engine would be removed and rebuilt. There would be no second hand element to it. Any bits needing replacement would be new, any used bits would be from the engine itself.

It isn't broken, although it is in as we speak having a funny noise from behind the engine front cover diagnosed! I have considered a GT28 BT build but I think it's cost prohibitive considering the value of the car. Otherwise it's Stage 2 map, FMIC and exhaust (leaving the manifold, TDP and cat as standard). A very conservative wish list given the engine work I'd like carried out, but when you say the standard rods 'should' be ok, along with people with similar set ups bending rods, it doesn't instil me with confidence. As I have stated in previous threads, from where I'm standing rod upgrades are essential to even minor power/torque hikes. I want absolute confidence in my engine regardless of how I drive it (within reason).

The way I see it, a rod upgrade is vital and if the engine is stripped down to that extent I may as well rebuild it for relatively little extra cost. I won't carry out any performance upgrades without forged rods.


those who bend rods run spikey high boost maps, or aftermarket gadgets like wot boxes and the like = carnage on occasions.

Sensibly mapped, good power is achieved without the need for high boost/torque spikes and all is well.

Rods are'nt essential for a stage 2... when a stage 2 is'nt how I describe..

Not everyone chooses or allows these spikes to occur.. ;)
 

bmwfiend

Guest
Haha, I see what you did there........ No I have had many cars around BMW's. this time last year I had my M3, DC2 and Votex Mk4 Golf at the sane time. In the time of owning all 3, the only one to play up was the tuned Golf. Not a peep from the other 2. So its not me being biased, especially as im now looking for an LCR...... (GF's orders)
 

ibizacupra

Jack-RIP my little Friend
Jul 25, 2001
31,333
19
glos.uk
If you require that sort of confidence from an engine, perhaps a different manufacturer is for you...... The 1.8T platform is rarely regarded as 'reliable'! Even if it has been rebuilt.......

LMAO

and how are the Vanos on beemers these days.. Dropped any more screws into intakes ruining engines etc...

every platform has its gremlins..

1.8t in the main is a robust unit, but there of course exceptions to everything... eg Stupid tuning, neglect, abuse as well as taking the michael out of the hardware in terms of expectations over std that they will tolerate.

1.8t Rocks :) but I am biased :p
 

bmwfiend

Guest
LMAO

and how are the Vanos on beemers these days.. Dropped any more screws into intakes ruining engines etc...

every platform has its gremlins..

1.8t in the main is a robust unit, but there of course exceptions to everything... eg Stupid tuning, neglect, abuse as well as taking the michael out of the hardware in terms of expectations over std that they will tolerate.

1.8t Rocks :) but I am biased :p


You have never owned an M3 with that input clearly....... Tell me more about your vanos knowledge....... The only 'gremlin' with the vanos is the growl which can go further into a rattle. Even if this does occur, at worst it means the vanos will not 'kick' at 2.5 and 5k as it should. It can also leak a little oil but isn't as bad as people make out. The loose screw thing was an early fault, not heard of one of them for ages..... The vanos can be fixed for £300 but will growl again after a couple of thousand miles...... More character than a problem.
The real killer with the ///M's is the bottom end.
 

seatcupramad23

kc4even23
Sep 7, 2009
3,239
3
birmingham
i taught he was broke , rebuild is a waste of money if it ain't broke unless you looking to go big power then uprating the internals is the way to go , but don't rebuild it with all oem parts waste of cash these engines can be had for peanuts these days , if you buy 2nd hand , buy one you can see running if possible with history
 

alias

Active Member
May 9, 2011
317
0
Essex
Now, now ladies :p in the main 1.8Ts are known to be very reliable, with the exception to the conrods in modified cars (hence my trepidation in doing anything). Having said that, that bit up there about my car going in for noise diagnosis, turns out it might be the water pump going up the swanny. A new cambelt, pump and £500 later and all should be well. Excellent. Anyway, that's off subject.

The main point is that I don't trust the cast rods to be up to the job. If I get quoted silly money for a rebuild, I'm going for the ST as it makes greater financial sense. That and I'm a Ford employee so bits come with a discount!
 

bmwfiend

Guest
Sounds like a plan and then sell me your LCR at a discounted rate as your worried its gonna pop........
 
SEATCUPRA.NET Forum merchandise