Joec1

Active Member
Feb 9, 2010
75
0
Wiltshire
I have a 2.0TDi (Altea) 140bhp, since buying it I’ve had problems with the turbo unit, it kept cutting out and moving to a turbo protection mode (similar to limp mode but you could hear the turbo spooling) eventually after around 20 visits to the garage they replaced the turbo control unit and hey presto – fixed.

No however, five months later, I have another problem all together. While driving along at low revs (i.e. cruising in 4th at around 30mph seems the most predominant at 1500 ish RPM) I get a hesitation that can only be associated with the kangaroo wobble that a learner driver gives with poor clutch control however not as severe. I maintain a steady foot (and on the flat) and the revs will dip by a few hundred RPM, and then return to normal a second later.

After reading the thread here: http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=290265 about the same sort of problem, I have bought one from SERE motors in NI for £2 in P&P to the UK. The thread mentions that it was designed by VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda to resolve the hesitation.

I’ve also read that while you’re at it you may as well clean out the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) and IMF (Inlet Manifold Valve) located right at the front of the engine between the radiator and the lump. But I have a few questions that I can’t find the answers to before carrying out a clean.

I’ve read that cleaning them with paraffin or carb cleaner etc seems to have broken a few EGR’s rendering them broken, if I merely remove any excess gunk (not back to clean shiny material) will this help the airflow? And not cause problems later on? As I need to save a little cash at the moment (as the car needs a DMF and Clutch which takes priority)

Would carrying out this task make the car sound less “laboured” as it currently sounds as if it is under stress to even turn on (like it has a load when it doesn’t) im hoping that this is the clutch/ Flywheel problem combined with the EGR gunk up?

And finally, I’ve noticed (with a little help from “toxic” on here) that the lower hoses in and out of the intercooler are oily around the seals… it’s been mentioned that this can cause boot problems? How to I remove to clean them? Do the pipes contain anything? Toxic mentioned that the oil would have travelled from the breather pipe; does this mean its gunked up too?

If anyone has any help or advice I would really appreciate it as im new to TDi lumps (and to turbo lumps) so have little experience of navigating them. So please fee free to correct me if any of the above logic is wrong, im expecting some of it to be.

Joe
 
all sounds about right. Give the EGR a clean up (havent heard of getting broken from this), so yes sure remove the excess gunk.

Dont think this will help with the laboured sounds from my experience.

And yes oily joints in the intercooler pipes is common and normal, comes from the CCV system, the pipes and intercooler will contain a small amount of oil which can be cleaned out if desired.
 
Replace the fuel and air filters if you haven't already, I'm not sure on the newer engines but the older ones like mine can get gunked up in the inlet manifold which can make the car sound laboured and lack a bit of top end oomph.:)
 
Cheers Folks...

Yes car had a major service a few weeks ago, they said it sounded a little laboured.

Will remove the intlet manifold also ;)

my egr doesnt seem to fixed on by Torx/Spines like mentioned elsewhere though? it seems ot have hex bolts
 
my egr doesnt seem to fixed on by Torx/Spines like mentioned elsewhere though? it seems to have hex bolts

Mine isn't either, it seems to be the 170bhp engines that have torx bits. You'll need a 6mm allen key to remove the EGR pipe and a 5mm to take the flap and EGR assembly off of the intake

I used a mixture of isopropyl and brake cleaner to clean up mine, i used an old tooth brush and a stanley blade to scrap off any of the bigger build ups
 
Ok, fitted the gasket, and cleaner a few mm of oil from the inside of the EGR if looks like theres a lot of oil in there as it had started coming out of the air release holes, and sprayed onto the block directly under the inlet manifold.....

anyway... cleaned it up and hesitation had gone, still get the rough idle which im 99% is the flywheel and the clutch needed replacing...

however, im now getting the odd cloud of smoke when i sit in traffic and then pull away, its only on gear changes.... and when starting the car after a few days its sounding rough... and rather ill...

any suggestions?

would a fuel suppliment added a few times help this? ifso any suggestions?
 
This is just like my prob - the car sounds worse after cleaning out EGR - huge puff of blue smoke (the paraffin I used to clean it burning) and now, 2 weeks later, and i drive it on when it's up to temp., and it's still like a Massey Ferguson after it's started.

Changed temp. sensor yest to rule that out, no change. Maybe it will take a while to bun all the crap that has built up.

I plan this weekend to check the oil breather pipe.

Is there a handy guide for doing this or is it relatively easy to do?

@ Joec1 - I think cleaning as much as you can of the air intake and intercooler pipes and checking for boost leaks will help. I'm going to do mine when I get her up on a lift.
 
Ok.. bit of an update, the blus smoke has all but stopped (so darren you were right, it was a little over full on oil and has burnt it off) Ta ;)

now im noticing that when i start it up (from cold) its a little restricted when driving for the first mile or so, it feels as though the VNT isnt moving properly on the turbo? and when i do push my foot down, i get a small cloud of black smoke, as if the turbo has pushed the VNT to allow the higher range or boost? ? ? ?

suggestions or opinions? its going into the garage next week for the clutch to be sorted, but i would like some idea of the cost im likely to have :S
 
I'm still getting smokey start-up. Cleaned things out and still smokey but it could be still burning it off. I 'll give it until early August before I take the turbo off and do a reconditioning.

What it sounds like is that all the oil that has been burned has built up in your turbo and that the actuator is sticking. From what I understand on this site, and Seatmann seems to be the man to talk to about this, there's a level attached to this actuator that allows you to move it and even squirt in wd40.

Worth a try along with some spirited driving, drive say, 1 gear l lower for a few days and see if there's a difference.