frankmabo
Guest
I own a 2009 Seat Leon Cupra it comes with the same engine as the TTs, S3, Scirroco R or the Golf R, I´ve been using the apr software around 6 months with step by step upgrades, downpipe, intercooler, fuel pump, etc. I cleaned the catalyst from the mid pipe and added a resonator, modified AEM intake, bsh 2.5¨ throttle pipe and a custom 2.5¨ discharge pipe with the turbo silencer removed. I thought I had managed to do a clean full air cycle on my car.
I always heard the k04 flutter but when I installed the gauges I saw the needle bouncing and was sure something was not letting this engine breathe the way it was meant to.
While searching I saw Integrated Engineering´s intake manifold flange, but never got to see the point in that TBH, then APR came with the flapper delete kit, a simple cheap way to make your car breathe better. There are some cheap knock offs there is even a guy that wants to use my old flappers to try to seal them and use them on his skoda, but come on, it´s a part that goes almost INSIDE the engine, knock offs? plastic sealed?. geez
I wanted to test if the car actually made any gains from this so I fill the tank with the best (88-89aki) fuel we have in this country, put two gallons of xylene (115.5aki) to see if it raises at least to 91. The next day did some logging (there was much less timing pull than usual) so the xylene had an apparent effect and went to the dyno.
Preflapper dyno graph. Outside temperature 30.5c and a small portable fan to the intercooler.
After I got the car to my house and started the process of removing the manifold, is very time consuming and even with the right tools it´s a little difficult, professional asistance is definetly
recomended for most people. Keep in mind that the blue injector rings might come off, clean them and put them on the injectors before placing the manifold back. I´ve read a lot of people
saying that the injectors sometimes come out when you remove the manifold, that did not happen to me.
Since my car is only 20k km (around 12k miles) the valves where not THAT dirty, they had some gunk but not like the ones in the pictures of a few of the really bad cases. I used a full can of carb cleaner and a toothbrush (regular plastic one) and removed most of the dirt, There was one valve that I cleaned less because it was open and I didn´t want carbon to fall into the cylinder head, I placed a small ball of newspaper on each and with the toothbrush removed the outside of the dirt.
After removing the oem flappers I removed the clip that holds the arm and replace it with the supplied aluminum arm insert and placed the clip back in it´s place to hold it, carefully put the flapper delete pieces on the manifold and they fit around half way with mild pushing from my fingers, I tapped them gently with a very small hammer I have untill they where align with the manifold, put the rubber joint and started the process of putting back the manifold. Always remember to oil the rubber joints (throttle and mani) before assembeling back.
The first startup was kind scary, I had the car sitting for 3 days and I was not sure if I had to put oil on the valves (I did not), I wait it for the gas to fill a little, cranked the car 2 seconds and stopped I had to do this like 4 or 5 times before the car turned on, I warmed the car went to my apr friend and flashed the RFD program.
Flapperless run. Outside temperature 31.5c and the small portable fan was not working, keep in mind that this is a non air conditionined dyno just 3 walls and a roof but it´s the most accurate and the most constant here.
I knew that my max psi might drop a little because the engine eats up the airflow more, and TBH the flutter seems less and shorter, the engine sounds a lot less in idle, its a little more present when accelerating but smoother. It´s always nice to have 15+whp permanent on your engine.
I have some interesting ideas I might give a try, and if they work I´ll do a little review if I can get some free time.
feel free to ask any questions and if I have the answer I´ll be happy to give them.
Frank.
I always heard the k04 flutter but when I installed the gauges I saw the needle bouncing and was sure something was not letting this engine breathe the way it was meant to.
While searching I saw Integrated Engineering´s intake manifold flange, but never got to see the point in that TBH, then APR came with the flapper delete kit, a simple cheap way to make your car breathe better. There are some cheap knock offs there is even a guy that wants to use my old flappers to try to seal them and use them on his skoda, but come on, it´s a part that goes almost INSIDE the engine, knock offs? plastic sealed?. geez
I wanted to test if the car actually made any gains from this so I fill the tank with the best (88-89aki) fuel we have in this country, put two gallons of xylene (115.5aki) to see if it raises at least to 91. The next day did some logging (there was much less timing pull than usual) so the xylene had an apparent effect and went to the dyno.
Preflapper dyno graph. Outside temperature 30.5c and a small portable fan to the intercooler.
After I got the car to my house and started the process of removing the manifold, is very time consuming and even with the right tools it´s a little difficult, professional asistance is definetly
recomended for most people. Keep in mind that the blue injector rings might come off, clean them and put them on the injectors before placing the manifold back. I´ve read a lot of people
saying that the injectors sometimes come out when you remove the manifold, that did not happen to me.
Since my car is only 20k km (around 12k miles) the valves where not THAT dirty, they had some gunk but not like the ones in the pictures of a few of the really bad cases. I used a full can of carb cleaner and a toothbrush (regular plastic one) and removed most of the dirt, There was one valve that I cleaned less because it was open and I didn´t want carbon to fall into the cylinder head, I placed a small ball of newspaper on each and with the toothbrush removed the outside of the dirt.
After removing the oem flappers I removed the clip that holds the arm and replace it with the supplied aluminum arm insert and placed the clip back in it´s place to hold it, carefully put the flapper delete pieces on the manifold and they fit around half way with mild pushing from my fingers, I tapped them gently with a very small hammer I have untill they where align with the manifold, put the rubber joint and started the process of putting back the manifold. Always remember to oil the rubber joints (throttle and mani) before assembeling back.
The first startup was kind scary, I had the car sitting for 3 days and I was not sure if I had to put oil on the valves (I did not), I wait it for the gas to fill a little, cranked the car 2 seconds and stopped I had to do this like 4 or 5 times before the car turned on, I warmed the car went to my apr friend and flashed the RFD program.
Flapperless run. Outside temperature 31.5c and the small portable fan was not working, keep in mind that this is a non air conditionined dyno just 3 walls and a roof but it´s the most accurate and the most constant here.
I knew that my max psi might drop a little because the engine eats up the airflow more, and TBH the flutter seems less and shorter, the engine sounds a lot less in idle, its a little more present when accelerating but smoother. It´s always nice to have 15+whp permanent on your engine.
I have some interesting ideas I might give a try, and if they work I´ll do a little review if I can get some free time.
feel free to ask any questions and if I have the answer I´ll be happy to give them.
Frank.
but thank you for the 
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