Drives very well although I need to fit cruise control lol... £30 tax and 64mpg too ;P
Spray paint wise I use mostly Rustoleum Hard Hat top coats
<tuffty/>
Audi S3 GT3582R stroker Build (previously GT3071r)
- Thread starter tufftybloke
- Start date
Drives very well although I need to fit cruise control lol... £30 tax and 64mpg too ;P
Spray paint wise I use mostly Rustoleum Hard Hat top coats
<tuffty/>
Small update time....
Not done much recently as I have spent the last few weeks while in between jobs helping Bill out and sorting a few issues out on the new daily...
Bill has been massively busy so not had any time to map the S3 so nothing to report there at the moment but I did get around to sorting a small problem I had with my headlights where I have a lazy xenon...
Bought some 6000k DS2's from T8ups a while back but got some new ballasts from him a couple of weeks back with the intention to replace mine... so here we go
Original ballasts...
New ones with DS2 conversion leads...
Removing the old ones proved to be a challenge... the DS2 plug was too big to get past the main beam reflector and I didn't want to destroy them in case I needed to roll back (working in IT too long lol)...
...so I cut a section out to allow me to get the cable out... (note that I managed to get plastic filings in the lens and while I used an airline to blow most out there is still some left in... DOH!)
...also had to cut the 'bung' in half to reuse on the new cable...
Old unit out and unharmed
Used sealant to 'glue' it all back together and prevent moisture ingress
Marked up and drilled holes in the original ballast carrier
...to fit the new ballast...
...and cable tied the cable to the back...
All sorted
Headlights all working properly now...
<tuffty/>
Not done much recently as I have spent the last few weeks while in between jobs helping Bill out and sorting a few issues out on the new daily...
Bill has been massively busy so not had any time to map the S3 so nothing to report there at the moment but I did get around to sorting a small problem I had with my headlights where I have a lazy xenon...
Bought some 6000k DS2's from T8ups a while back but got some new ballasts from him a couple of weeks back with the intention to replace mine... so here we go
Original ballasts...
New ones with DS2 conversion leads...
Removing the old ones proved to be a challenge... the DS2 plug was too big to get past the main beam reflector and I didn't want to destroy them in case I needed to roll back (working in IT too long lol)...
...so I cut a section out to allow me to get the cable out... (note that I managed to get plastic filings in the lens and while I used an airline to blow most out there is still some left in... DOH!)
...also had to cut the 'bung' in half to reuse on the new cable...
Old unit out and unharmed
Used sealant to 'glue' it all back together and prevent moisture ingress
Marked up and drilled holes in the original ballast carrier
...to fit the new ballast...
...and cable tied the cable to the back...
All sorted
Headlights all working properly now...
<tuffty/>
They appear to work... tbh I have done around 1000miles or less so far so I'd be really upset if they were shot by now lol...
I can't really tell you much more than that, I don't do many miles in the car so they could last forever LOL
<tuffty/>
cheers for the reply tuffty,
Just wondering what can actually go wrong with them anyway, assuming only thing can be that the ball insert wears quickly if they are cheap ones?
tom
Just wondering what can actually go wrong with them anyway, assuming only thing can be that the ball insert wears quickly if they are cheap ones?
tom
I think so.. had GSF ones on before and they lasted a couple of years... will see how these go I guess...
Thanks mate... its been fun doing it
<tuffty/>
No real updates yet.. not had a chance to look at mapping as it needs to go on the emulator and Bill is flat out so not had the time... no real dramas as I am not driving her too much at the moment and most of my time seems to be taken up with sorting the A2 out lol... joys of a cheap car with 155k on the clock
Anyhoo... had a slight setback.... was out in the car for the first time in a couple of weeks showing Jap boys what a man turbo is like in a civilised car and managed to a miss a gear change to 4th... by knocking it into 2nd!
Dipped the clutch as quickly as poss and got her in gear... engine sounded fine, car drive fine so thought nothing more of it until I pulled up and heard a new rubbing noise from underneath the engine... can't hear it in the car, sounds like she always does but definitely something up so parked her up and left her for a week..
Checked the cam belt visually... seems ok... scan of VCDS did bring up the following though...
16396 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake)
P0012 - 35-10 - Advance Setpoint not Reached (Over-Retarded) - Intermittent
16705 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
P0321 - 35-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
17968 - Maximum Engine Speed Exceeded: Engine Warranty VOID!
P1560 - 35-10 - -) - Intermittent
17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
P1340 - 35-00 - Incor. Correlation
Cleared codes and drove to Bills... rescanned and the only code to come back was...
17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
P1340 - 35-00 - Incor. Correlation
Cambelt has jumped... booo...
Will check her over today... see how many teeth the belts jumped (hopefully just the one), use the bore scope to check for contact marks and see where this rubbing noise is coming from...
I am pretty optimistic as its a solid engine with supertech valve train and I caught it pretty quickly so best case will be new belt and happy days, worse case based on how she runs now may be a head rebuild... bottom end seems fine
We shall see...
Just remember kids... 2nd gear is not 4th... :/
<tuffty/>
Anyhoo... had a slight setback.... was out in the car for the first time in a couple of weeks showing Jap boys what a man turbo is like in a civilised car and managed to a miss a gear change to 4th... by knocking it into 2nd!
Dipped the clutch as quickly as poss and got her in gear... engine sounded fine, car drive fine so thought nothing more of it until I pulled up and heard a new rubbing noise from underneath the engine... can't hear it in the car, sounds like she always does but definitely something up so parked her up and left her for a week..
Checked the cam belt visually... seems ok... scan of VCDS did bring up the following though...
16396 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake)
P0012 - 35-10 - Advance Setpoint not Reached (Over-Retarded) - Intermittent
16705 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
P0321 - 35-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
17968 - Maximum Engine Speed Exceeded: Engine Warranty VOID!
P1560 - 35-10 - -) - Intermittent
17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
P1340 - 35-00 - Incor. Correlation
Cleared codes and drove to Bills... rescanned and the only code to come back was...
17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
P1340 - 35-00 - Incor. Correlation
Cambelt has jumped... booo...
Will check her over today... see how many teeth the belts jumped (hopefully just the one), use the bore scope to check for contact marks and see where this rubbing noise is coming from...
I am pretty optimistic as its a solid engine with supertech valve train and I caught it pretty quickly so best case will be new belt and happy days, worse case based on how she runs now may be a head rebuild... bottom end seems fine
We shall see...
Just remember kids... 2nd gear is not 4th... :/
<tuffty/>
Okies... results are in
There appears to have been a little rubbage on the side of the belt... not sure where but I believe just moving it across will sort that... however...
..there are signs of valve contact.. check the other cylinders and they all have this (it was at 7k plus to be fair)
...and as expected, the belt has moved a tooth...
So... plan now is to reset the cambelt, drive her home and sort some valves out... will have to assess the impact fully once the heads off but at the very least it will be a new set of exhaust valves as bouncing them off pistons at 8000 rpm is not going to help their life expectancy
Pistons will clean up ok so no drama there... worse case will be to replace the entire supertech valve train... hopefully won't come to that but won't be able to tell until its apart..
Ah well... joys of modding cars lol
<tuffty/>
There appears to have been a little rubbage on the side of the belt... not sure where but I believe just moving it across will sort that... however...
..there are signs of valve contact.. check the other cylinders and they all have this (it was at 7k plus to be fair)
...and as expected, the belt has moved a tooth...
So... plan now is to reset the cambelt, drive her home and sort some valves out... will have to assess the impact fully once the heads off but at the very least it will be a new set of exhaust valves as bouncing them off pistons at 8000 rpm is not going to help their life expectancy
Pistons will clean up ok so no drama there... worse case will be to replace the entire supertech valve train... hopefully won't come to that but won't be able to tell until its apart..
Ah well... joys of modding cars lol
<tuffty/>
...breaking news! (see what I did there) ;P
Found the source of the rubbing noise.... its coming from the DMF... what it looks like is one of the bolts from the rear seal has come loose and is now backed out enough the rub the back of the flywheel... the wear pattern supports this but obviously it can only be confirmed once the box and flywheel is off...
So... she will be SORN'd again, cash the tax in and lock her away until I have rebuilt the other box and sorted the valves... tbh I am of a mind to replace the lot and be done... new inlets, exhausts and springs... I am sure the springs and inlets would be ok but the valve train will have floated at the RPM's it saw (hence the contact with pistons as slipping one tooth won't have caused that)
So near lol...
<tuffty/>
Found the source of the rubbing noise.... its coming from the DMF... what it looks like is one of the bolts from the rear seal has come loose and is now backed out enough the rub the back of the flywheel... the wear pattern supports this but obviously it can only be confirmed once the box and flywheel is off...
So... she will be SORN'd again, cash the tax in and lock her away until I have rebuilt the other box and sorted the valves... tbh I am of a mind to replace the lot and be done... new inlets, exhausts and springs... I am sure the springs and inlets would be ok but the valve train will have floated at the RPM's it saw (hence the contact with pistons as slipping one tooth won't have caused that)
So near lol...
<tuffty/>
So... conclusions from today....
I think the rubbing issue was always going to happen and would have resulting in grounding the car regardless... only explanation for that is I didn't use locktite for whatever reason... something that won't happen again
I clearly need to drive the S3 more... I haven't been recently as the A2 has needed a few odds and sods done to her and so I have been driving that pretty much since I bought her...
Finally... don't change into 2nd gear when you are at over 7000rpm in 3rd... it doesn't end well LOL
Actions from today....
Get my arse in gear and rebuild the new gearbox
Order up a full supertech valve train as a replacement... while its entirely plausible the only thing I need to change is the exhaust vales I am working on worse case... anything salvageable and usable from the rebuild will get sold on to lighten the blow...
Have pizza and beer...
<tuffty/>
I think the rubbing issue was always going to happen and would have resulting in grounding the car regardless... only explanation for that is I didn't use locktite for whatever reason... something that won't happen again
I clearly need to drive the S3 more... I haven't been recently as the A2 has needed a few odds and sods done to her and so I have been driving that pretty much since I bought her...
Finally... don't change into 2nd gear when you are at over 7000rpm in 3rd... it doesn't end well LOL
Actions from today....
Get my arse in gear and rebuild the new gearbox
Order up a full supertech valve train as a replacement... while its entirely plausible the only thing I need to change is the exhaust vales I am working on worse case... anything salvageable and usable from the rebuild will get sold on to lighten the blow...
Have pizza and beer...
<tuffty/>
Ouch....
I've hit 3rd when going into 5th..more than once,guessing I was lucky..
Hope you get it sorted soon pal.
I thought you were running a solid flywheel?
Any reason why your not?
(Just curious)
Just sorn "JBS,s" octaviableh so will be back upto bill to sort out the mapping when I've finished with it.
I've hit 3rd when going into 5th..more than once,guessing I was lucky..
Hope you get it sorted soon pal.
I thought you were running a solid flywheel?
Any reason why your not?
(Just curious)
Just sorn "JBS,s" octavia
bleh so will be back upto bill to sort out the mapping when I've finished with it.
Not running a solid flywheel as I don't want the associated chatter, the inherent fruitless search for a suitable clutch and the expense of said clutch...
Been running a DMF, std cover and sachs 4 puck paddle for a good few years now... its just seems to work... excellent road manners, plenty of torque capability and relatively cheap
Clutches are just a mine field... everyone has a different opinion about them, its a hugely subjective piece of kit... I gave this setup a go based on a conversation with caney... the peripheral parts were cheap enough and a known commodity being OE based kit.. the Sachs paddle plate just seems to complement it all and never had an issue with the last clutch which got me through a fair few launches (4WD remember) and just over 20k miles... which for a cerametallic plate is pretty good...
Until this setup causes me problems I shall be sticking to it...
Valve train is ordered... I am replacing inlets, exausts and springs... the titanium retainers and single groove collets can be reused and has saved me a couple of hundred dollars
Just need to get the work I need to get done on the A2 then crack on sorting the gearbox build out..
<tuffty/>
Been running a DMF, std cover and sachs 4 puck paddle for a good few years now... its just seems to work... excellent road manners, plenty of torque capability and relatively cheap
Clutches are just a mine field... everyone has a different opinion about them, its a hugely subjective piece of kit... I gave this setup a go based on a conversation with caney... the peripheral parts were cheap enough and a known commodity being OE based kit.. the Sachs paddle plate just seems to complement it all and never had an issue with the last clutch which got me through a fair few launches (4WD remember) and just over 20k miles... which for a cerametallic plate is pretty good...
Until this setup causes me problems I shall be sticking to it...
Valve train is ordered... I am replacing inlets, exausts and springs... the titanium retainers and single groove collets can be reused and has saved me a couple of hundred dollars
Just need to get the work I need to get done on the A2 then crack on sorting the gearbox build out..
<tuffty/>
ouch could have been worse though, i can remember being wit my brother in his old fiesta having a bit of race with a friend coming down a hill to a corner he went to go down to fourth and got second which sent the conrod through the block, at least it didnt damage the pistons too much
Thankfully I think being a freshly 'built' engine made a big difference... after the incident the engine still pulled like a train... no idea of the speed as the speedo had run out of numbers ;P
Just more cheesed off that I have to take the engine apart so soon after putting it all together...
At least I can look at addressing the iffy thread for the exhaust cam cap as that's bothering me more than anything at the moment lol
<tuffty/>
Just more cheesed off that I have to take the engine apart so soon after putting it all together...
At least I can look at addressing the iffy thread for the exhaust cam cap as that's bothering me more than anything at the moment lol
<tuffty/>
Lovely build mate, your attention to detail is amazing.
Bad luck there with the missed gear Tufty. At least your doing the right thing and pulling it to bits to check everything over / replace the valves...
You havent mentioned it but i assume your gonna replace the timing belt, if its jumped you can bet some of the teeth will be damaged and the belts probably stretched.
Good luck with your rebuild mate.
Bad luck there with the missed gear Tufty. At least your doing the right thing and pulling it to bits to check everything over / replace the valves...
You havent mentioned it but i assume your gonna replace the timing belt, if its jumped you can bet some of the teeth will be damaged and the belts probably stretched.
Good luck with your rebuild mate.
Gutted to read of your bad luck with the motor mate
How does the emulator work during the mapping, does it work out best settings for the tuner.
How does the emulator work during the mapping, does it work out best settings for the tuner.
Thanks man.... appreciate the compliment, your build is pretty epic too in fairness lol... I just bought a 4wd car to start with... lot less hassle lol...
Yeah, will be a new belt... not risking the engine on something as trivial as a belt...
Onwards and upwards huh
Gutted to read of your bad luck with the motor mate
How does the emulator work during the mapping, does it work out best settings for the tuner.
Thanks dude... emulator works with winols (the mapping software Bill uses)... it essentially allows you to make live changes to the maps (same kinda thing as standalones do)... it also traces which cells are in use at anyone time so you can do steady state tuning and plug gaps in various maps...
Really useful for dialling in exotic hardware setups like mine...
<tuffty/>
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