Hi folks. I have a 2012 leon super copa and the battery is completely dead after a day or 2. Its a new battery and it's getting a charge but what I've noticed is the osr door lock is not working with the central locking. Could this be linked. Many thanks
Battery Draining
- Thread starter Gbaxter1985
- Start date
Is there anyway to remove the negative terminal of the battery without the alarm going off. I'm trying to check for a current draw but when I lock the car and disconnected the battery the alarm goes off
when you start the car is there a battery light on the dash in red? If so measure how many volts are at the battery while the car is running at idle. Then switch the car off and see if the number drops. The door look not opening is another fault not related to a battery drain.
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There is no battery light on when I start the car. Its getting over 14v when running and about 12.7 when off. I'm getting a draw of about 3 amps and when I disconnect fuse 24 which is the bcm fuse, it droos to 1.7 amps which is still higher than it should be
I've not changed the radio but I did use a cheap reader to be fair. Tried removing allnthe fuses 1 by one and the only one that drops drops the current draw is the bcm one but its still got a fairly high draw when its removed
Is there Any chance your bcm is wet? Do you get fogged up windows when it rains and the cars not been driven for afew days?
It can get a bit confusing removing individual fuses as some will be for the "controller" and some for the loads it switches.
Maybe try removing the alternator output lead and cover it to keep it isolated, doing that will check if the alternator is to blame.
I think that @300bhpdaily's question about the battery light would also be valid as "check the battery warning light is on with only the ignition key in the first position" ie is the control cabling to the alternator still okay - but you have said that the voltage is around 14V so maybe that is good enough.
One way to check the battery drain after all the systems have been forcing into "sleep", is to connect one side of a current meter to a body earth point using a crock clip, using a straight sharp probe, push that down onto the -VE battery post and while holding that down, slacken off the battery negative and ease the lead up over the straight probe - doing that after leaving the car with doors closed and the bonnet open for maybe 20 minutes should let you see the true "sleeping" drain current which should be around 50 milli amps.
Ideally you will have all the car's wiring information and find that hopefully there are 2 distinct areas of the car that you can separate so that you can start further isolating local areas down a bit more. I seemed to remember being able to do that on my daughter's late 2009 Ibiza when chasing current drain, but in that case I was just proving that it was a BCM coding patch that had never ever been applied to that car - which in the end it did turn out to be!
Edit:- removing the central locking fuse will easily remove it from the equation, you can lock up these cars manually with the power removed, in case you didn't know, all the doors without a lock barrel will have a manual locking point under a rubber cover on the "door face" you just use a key blade etc to flick the manual locking part over and close the doors.
Maybe try removing the alternator output lead and cover it to keep it isolated, doing that will check if the alternator is to blame.
I think that @300bhpdaily's question about the battery light would also be valid as "check the battery warning light is on with only the ignition key in the first position" ie is the control cabling to the alternator still okay - but you have said that the voltage is around 14V so maybe that is good enough.
One way to check the battery drain after all the systems have been forcing into "sleep", is to connect one side of a current meter to a body earth point using a crock clip, using a straight sharp probe, push that down onto the -VE battery post and while holding that down, slacken off the battery negative and ease the lead up over the straight probe - doing that after leaving the car with doors closed and the bonnet open for maybe 20 minutes should let you see the true "sleeping" drain current which should be around 50 milli amps.
Ideally you will have all the car's wiring information and find that hopefully there are 2 distinct areas of the car that you can separate so that you can start further isolating local areas down a bit more. I seemed to remember being able to do that on my daughter's late 2009 Ibiza when chasing current drain, but in that case I was just proving that it was a BCM coding patch that had never ever been applied to that car - which in the end it did turn out to be!
Edit:- removing the central locking fuse will easily remove it from the equation, you can lock up these cars manually with the power removed, in case you didn't know, all the doors without a lock barrel will have a manual locking point under a rubber cover on the "door face" you just use a key blade etc to flick the manual locking part over and close the doors.
I've just replaced the osr door lock and it seemed to be ok bit once I put the door panel back on a double checked it, it wasn't working again. I worked the central locking with fo and the button inside and noticed it was a but temperamental. As for the central locking fuses I had a look in the handbook and there is no fuse in the bit for the central locking
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