being revo`ed tomorrow

lee b

Guest
having stage one revo on the cupra tomorrow, just a little advise needed looking at changing airflow on the car would you change panel filter for k&n etc or would you go the whole hog and have full induction kit (if so which one and how much) thanks guys.

i have been told that revo are doing a deal at the minute if you have one fitted you get the control box (normal or adjustable) FREE happy days!!

lee.
 

-pseudonymous-

Full Member
Oct 28, 2005
681
0
I presonally wouldn't bother with just a panel filter as you will see very little benefit. You would be best off getting rid of the standard restrictive airbox (engine cover) and fitting a full CAI such as ITG, Forge, BSH, or Dbilas to name a few. Price wise they range from £150-£400.
 

Blade

Full Member
Aug 31, 2004
1,383
32
As said above, the K+N is not going to make any difference at all. Once mapped the more airflow you have the better the car will go.
 

Al

Active Member
Aug 29, 2005
7,326
9
If you get an uprated intake like ITG, Dbilas, Evoms etc, it will help give more power, but be sure and fit an uprated fuel pump at the same time :)
 
May 25, 2008
1,919
1
S.Wales
www.seatcupra.net
its not going to be vital to upgrade the internals as your only going for stage 1 for now you should fine that all the parts in the cupra is going to be sufficient enough as it is, This is a personal comment as I had the REVO trial last month.

If your planning to go stage2+ (including the fuel pump upgrade then its worth it) Im almost done with the parts just missing one more part then its straight to stage2+ :)
 

lee b

Guest
just picked it up and its a lot better than standard, its got a lot more pull at the bottom end of the map & mid range. as we use it for a road car (odd trackday) only i may leave it at that.
i do have a high power mitsubishi evo (900bhp) as my main toy and thats a headache at the best of times but well worth the fun.

lee.
 

big_richyt

Guest
You made the right choice getting it done anyway mate! Had a go of a revo'ed FR170 last week and the low to mid range torque/power on the Diesel was incredible! Def worth the upgrade, although if it remains to be seen if the standard clutch take the extra Nm we'll wait and see ;)
 

Poverty

Guest
just picked it up and its a lot better than standard, its got a lot more pull at the bottom end of the map & mid range. as we use it for a road car (odd trackday) only i may leave it at that.
i do have a high power mitsubishi evo (900bhp) as my main toy and thats a headache at the best of times but well worth the fun.

lee.

If you have a900hp evo then I deffo wouldnt bother with stage 2 plus on the k1.
 

lee b

Guest
If you have a900hp evo then I deffo wouldnt bother with stage 2 plus on the k1.

my evo is good fun on track but it scares the shite out of you on the road.:D, thats why i brought a leon for the road, these jap cars are ok but they do take a lot (and i mean a lot) of looking after and money to keep them reliable. even a 350-400bhp evo costs a fortune as a road car so thats why i got the cupra

lee
 

Poverty

Guest
my evo is good fun on track but it scares the shite out of you on the road.:D, thats why i brought a leon for the road, these jap cars are ok but they do take a lot (and i mean a lot) of looking after and money to keep them reliable. even a 350-400bhp evo costs a fortune as a road car so thats why i got the cupra

lee


The 2.0 TFSI has its issues too mate.
 

Poverty

Guest
only little onnoying ones, but listening to the people that have owned and still do own evos seem to be rather small in comparison, i mean all you here about is running costs on evos.

rag both of them and they both can cost just as much on fuel though. Apparently running costs on the 10 is better.

I would argue that the mitsu engine is a stronger design. The 1.8t certainly was more reliable than this 2.0TFSI with its numerous annoying sensors.

For day to day driving the 2.0TFSI is good, but for ragging the evo lump seems to cope better.
 

Al

Active Member
Aug 29, 2005
7,326
9
The 1.8t certainly was more reliable than this 2.0TFSI with its numerous annoying sensors.

Actually, I disagree with that mate. I had a 1.8T, and so far, the 2.0T engine has been faultless by comparison. I can honestly say that (so far), there have been no engine issues on mine at all (touch wood) although the fact that engine coolant slowly seems to be dropping (not getting in to the oil) and oil usage appears to be increasing a bit does give me a little cauuse for concern.

My 1.8T had a new water pump, MAF, Coil Packs, cam sensors and various other sensors etc. Oil usage on it increased over time too incidentally.

My 2.0T has needed absolutely sod all engine wise in its first (almost) 3 years which is approx the same age as I punted my 1.8T. I have pre-empted failure on the 2.0T with things like the cam follower however by changing it out regularly and my oil is changed out every 3000 miles or so.

I admit that the flat spot at 5200rpm and the jingling on spool is a pain, but it doesnt stop it being utterly reliable :)

Regarding the comment above about the remap, intake and fuel pump, if you map the car and add an uprated air intake, you are going to run the risk of the car running lean as the standard pump internals cannot cope with the demand asked of it. This topic has been covered on here numerous times, and there is a sticky on it in the FAQ section.
 
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Poverty

Guest
Actually, I disagree with that mate. I had a 1.8T, and so far, the 2.0T engine has been faultless by comparison. I can honestly say that (so far), there have been no engine issues on mine at all (touch wood) although the fact that engine coolant slowly seems to be dropping (not getting in to the oil) and oil usage appears to be increasing a bit does give me a little cauuse for concern.

My 1.8T had a new water pump, MAF, Coil Packs, cam sensors and various other sensors etc. Oil usage on it increased over time too incidentally.

My 2.0T has needed absolutely sod all engine wise in its first (almost) 3 years which is approx the same age as I punted my 1.8T. I have pre-empted failure on the 2.0T with things like the cam follower however by changing it out regularly and my oil is changed out every 3000 miles or so.

I admit that the flat spot at 5200rpm and the jingling on spool is a pain, but it doesnt stop it being utterly reliable :)

Regarding the comment above about the remap, intake and fuel pump, if you map the car and add an uprated air intake, you are going to run the risk of the car running lean as the standard pump internals cannot cope with the demand asked of it. This topic has been covered on here numerous times, and there is a sticky on it in the FAQ section.

Me, and wayne with both of his mk2 cupras have had issues. Alot of the stuff that the 1.8T FAILS ON SO DOES THE 2.0t which is stupid of vag.
 

lee b

Guest
rag both of them and they both can cost just as much on fuel though. Apparently running costs on the 10 is better.

I would argue that the mitsu engine is a stronger design. The 1.8t certainly was more reliable than this 2.0TFSI with its numerous annoying sensors.

For day to day driving the 2.0TFSI is good, but for ragging the evo lump seems to cope better.

running costs on a evo 10 is a little better but the engine in them are not as tunable and do seem to let go easy. i prefer evo 9 myself a little bit more hardcore than a 10.
 
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