Clutch pedal stuck on floor - low fluid?

[Lord Percy]

Hi

When I got in my car this morning (3 door 184) I pressed the clutch pedal and it just stuck to the floor. It can be lifted back up but when pressed it just springs back to the floor again. I have noticed for the last couple of weeks that the car seemed a bit juddery when setting off in first gear but I embarrassingly thought it may have been the traction control so kept driving it in eco mode to tame it 🫣

I know there are threads about master and slave cylinders failing but I just wondered if it could be the fluid being low as there appears to be nothing in it. I'm assuming the fluid is in the reservoir next to the coolant expansion tank? (Sorry, I know next to nothing about cars). Brakes are fine, for what it's worth.

Any advice greatly appreciated!

 

[os99]

If there's nothing in the reservoir, there's a leak, no other way that amount of fluid would disappear. If the res is completely empty, that'd suggest a braking issue since the clutch takes off is higher up.

But assuming it's clutch, likely culprit is master or slave cylinders. Master cylinder isn't too bad of a job to do, but sods law it'll be the slave which is a gearbox out job unfortunately - although presents a good opportunity for a new clutch and flywheel.

You could inspect the underside of the gearbox for signs of a leak, but probably best to get it recovered to a garage.

 

[Lord Percy]

Cheers os99.

Booked in for 20th May. He did say I could try topping up the fluid just to get it moved but wasn't sure if it'd work. Gonna give it a go anyway.

 

[os99]

You might have some luck, although if it's empty it must've been leaking for ages or have a big leak.

You'll need to bleed the clutch after topping up, fairly easy to do with a brake/clutch bleeder. I used one of the cheap ones that you connect to a tyre and it forces the fluid through the system, there'll be plenty of videos on how to do it on youtube.

 

[Lord Percy]

Cheers man. I put some fluid in but it didn't take much. Obviously there was already enough but I couldn't see the level. I've got too much in now!

 

[Lord Percy]

If there's nothing in the reservoir, there's a leak, no other way that amount of fluid would disappear. If the res is completely empty, that'd suggest a braking issue since the clutch takes off is higher up.

But assuming it's clutch, likely culprit is master or slave cylinders. Master cylinder isn't too bad of a job to do, but sods law it'll be the slave which is a gearbox out job unfortunately - although presents a good opportunity for a new clutch and flywheel.

You could inspect the underside of the gearbox for signs of a leak, but probably best to get it recovered to a garage.

When you say it's a good opportunity to do the clutch and flywheel, do you think it's worth it as my car has now done 128k. I had the heater matrix and timing belt done last year but I'm not sure what to do - keep going with what I've got or get a new car (I don't really want to do that, this car has been great).

What other showstoppers do you think I need to consider, considering it's age and mileage? Turbo, head gasket, anything else?

Really torn on what to do...

 

[SuperV8]

When you say it's a good opportunity to do the clutch and flywheel, do you think it's worth it as my car has now done 128k. I had the heater matrix and timing belt done last year but I'm not sure what to do - keep going with what I've got or get a new car (I don't really want to do that, this car has been great).

What other showstoppers do you think I need to consider, considering it's age and mileage? Turbo, head gasket, anything else?

Really torn on what to do...

Did topping up the fluid fix you clutch pedal dropping to the floor?

As your friction linings wear down - caliper pistons move out to take up the space - which reduces the level in your reservoir, so it doesn't always mean you have a leak, usually just means your brakes are worn!

If your clutch pedal is now working - I would just monitor the fluid level for a few weeks to check it's steady.
I wouldn't be changing your clutch just for the sake of it - unless you have clutch slip in higher gears or DMF rattle. My original clutch is on 140k miles and working fine.
Clutch wear is dependent on usage rather than mileage. If you do 500 motorway miles - you'll use you clutch twice vs 50 city miles where you'll use your clutch hundreds of times!

 

[Lord Percy]

Nah, the fluid level was fine in the end but I couldn't see the level through the tank.

Car's in at the garage now but it was a 2 week wait to get it seen so I won't find anything out until tomorrow at the earliest.

The clutch seemed to be fine before the pedal went but I seem to remember the mechanic saying it may be worth doing as the slave cylinder is a pain to get to.

 

[SuperV8]

Nah, the fluid level was fine in the end but I couldn't see the level through the tank.

Car's in at the garage now but it was a 2 week wait to get it seen so I won't find anything out until tomorrow at the earliest.

The clutch seemed to be fine before the pedal went but I seem to remember the mechanic saying it may be worth doing as the slave cylinder is a pain to get to.

Ah, ok.
Yes - 'while you're in there' if you have to do your clutch slave - I would also change change your clutch and DMF.

I would want them to ensure it's confirmed/tested it's NOT your clutch master cylinder - before the expense of your clutch slave/clutch/DMF and gearbox off job?

 

[Lord Percy]

I got my car back today

New clutch and dual mass flywheel. The invoice says it's had a 3 piece clutch kit fitted - will that include the slave cylinder? I'm gonna call them tomorrow and ask but I'm just curious and hoping it does.

I also got an MOT advisory for anti roll linkage ball joint dust cover severely deteriorated - is that serious/breakdown potential?

 

[SuperV8]

I got my car back today

New clutch and dual mass flywheel. The invoice says it's had a 3 piece clutch kit fitted - will that include the slave cylinder? I'm gonna call them tomorrow and ask but I'm just curious and hoping it does.

I also got an MOT advisory for anti roll linkage ball joint dust cover severely deteriorated - is that serious/breakdown potential?

Yes a three piece kit would include the centre release bearing/slave.

New anti roll bar drop link is a simple job - they aren't expensive. If the boot is deteriorated then water gets in and they most likely seize or dust gets in and turns into a grinding paste and wears them out. Nothing catastrophic can happen with your drop link - but get them changed when you can.