fredwarwick

Guest
Hi, not long bought a 2006 2.0 diesel alhambra with low mileage and shocked to learn that the cam belt needs changing because it's 4 years old. I've maintained/rebuilt cars for many a year so am prepared to do it myself. Can anybody help with a step by step source please and are any special tools required (essential?)

Thank you

Fred
 
Re cambelt change

It's a fairly straight forward job but you need two tools, one holds the crankshaft and the other holds the camshaft. You also need to support the engine as you have to remove the left hand engine mount. It is a job that can be done but there is removing the under tray which can be akward without a ramp and some under the wheel arch action as well.
 
No, but Ive done several petrol engines. Is there a fundemental difference??
 
Yes true how much for the locking pins kit & don't you have to lock the injection timing as well? I think I paid £450 included water pump & serpentine belt. was almost a year ago....
 
Can't remember but it's not loads, I found a piece of rod in my shed that locks the pump perfectly though and I have a piece of bar that fits the cam slot, just need to modify it a bit and I'll have a really cheap set lol.
 
If your planning on doing a belt change on your alhambra then the biggest obsticle will be removing the undertray. The belt swap itself is a piece 'o' piss.

you'll need this set of tools:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-VS...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item25658000b0

(you'll use the silver crank tool as the 2.0 8v engine fitted to the bammers has a stroked on engine with the timing mark being at the "2 o'clock" position instead of the usual ones at the "10 o'clock" position)

and it should take no longer than 3 hours. your bammer will have a pd engine so doesnt have an injector pump and once the airbox is removed you'd be surprised at how much room you have.
 
Hi, i posted a reply some time ago but it seems not to have got through, so here goes again.

Thank you for the info, is the swap rweally obvious or do i need a workshop manual? (I had the undertray off last week for an oil change so sussed that one)

Cheers

Fred
 
If you've done petrol ones then you should be ok, they're all pretty much the same, as long as you sus out how to line the engine up, suss the tensioner and always make sure you turn the engine over by hand first then recheck the alignment. There's no room for error because with the tdi one tooth off means contact between valves and pistons and even as small hit can weaken a valve which could then drop later and ruin the engine.
 
You need a locking kit, cam pin,pump pin, crank locking tool(not pin) and cam pully ajuster

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