turbomonkey

Guest
Changing up from 1st to 2nd when car is cold produces a bit of a grating/crunching noise unless I change at low revs & slowly. Doesn't happen on any other gear change, e.g. 3rd down to 2nd. Also gos away when car is warmed up.

My first thought was synchro mesh, but I'm no expert and the symptoms are a bit weird (i.e. only one gear change & only when cold). Can anyone give me a more informed view on what could be happening?
 
Sounds to me like a case of clutch on its way out.

Exactly the same symptons occured on my old Rover 214 several years ago - 160k and still going strong.

Only on 1st and second and was alot worse when cold.

If its a dieseasel, might be worth a SACHS clutch ready for a map.

No expert but it just sounds too similar.
 
Interesting. Clutch has been changed in the last 5k miles (along with master & slave cylinders)

Would a clutch issue only affect 1st to 2nd and not any other change including 2nd to 1st?

BTW - its a petrol Cupra 180bhp 2003 reg
 
All I can say is that is what it did on that Rover and only from first to second going up. That's what confused me too. Clutch going I would have expected the symptons at least on other gears going up or down and not just the one.

I had to do a bit of research on that one too as I couldn't get my head round it either. New clutch and it was sorted.

It may not of course be the answer to your issues, but I'm just relaying a past experience.
 
Interesting. Clutch has been changed in the last 5k miles (along with master & slave cylinders)

Would a clutch issue only affect 1st to 2nd and not any other change including 2nd to 1st?

BTW - its a petrol Cupra 180bhp 2003 reg

tis a common issue. have a look at some reviews on reputable websites. saw one particularly good website saying that when its cold owners should change 1st to 3rd. change gearbox oil i recon. this subject came up a few months back and averyone was raving about changing to 'redline MTL' to resolve anooying graunches...
 
Thanks guys

I was worried that it was gonna be something costly (like needing the gbox refurbed). Thought I had the Gbox oil chaged 1k miles ago along witht the engine oil. they could well have used some cheapo stuff tho...
 
mines doing the same going from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd, i think mines due a service so i'll definately change the gearbox oil before trying anything else. Is this an easy job to be done at home. I have tools (sockets, spanners, etc), jack, axle stands and a nice of street area. How long should it take, any tips (i.e. is the drain plug in a difficult place, etc). I'm not tight but money is running short at the minute and can't afford to put the car into dealers everytime something needs doing.
 
It's not a job you could do at home, you need to get the car on a lift and there is a special tool to remove the drain and fill holes. It's a half hour job for a garage.

Neil.
 
Are haynes manuals any good or are there any other sources that i can use (other than this fantasic site). I dont know much about the VAG engine but i know my way around an engine bay and i'm handy with spanners and sockets. Is there an easy way to check the oil level on the gearbox?

Sorry but i am a noobie
 
the mk4 golf haynes manual is about as close as you will get. www.vagcat.com has parts diagrams in exploded form so you can identify parts; other than that, ask around on here and someone should point you in the right direction
 
Are haynes manuals any good or are there any other sources that i can use (other than this fantasic site). I dont know much about the VAG engine but i know my way around an engine bay and i'm handy with spanners and sockets. Is there an easy way to check the oil level on the gearbox?

Sorry but i am a noobie

To check the gearbox oil level you need to open the fill hole with the car level, oil should be up to the top of the fill hole without spilling out.

You need a special tool to open the fill and drain holes, I doubt you would be able to do it without having the car on a lift/ramp.

http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/pagebuild_v2.cgi/?html=learnmore.html&productID=8234

Neil.
 
How many Quarts (0.94 litre) will I need for a gearbox full? Camskill have MT-90 at £15 per Quart
 
i also read when changing, you need to run it for X amount of time and then check level again, and top up if necessary, to allow the oil to move around the whole system and cogs etc