On my old Astra Couple Turbo when the turbo was on the way out it was drinking oil, ended up finding all the oil in the air pipes around the turbo. Finally the oil reached the hot turbo and LOTS of smoke :-(
 
i might be getting myself worked up over it tbh.


i haven't drove the car since Friday but my girlfriend took it for a spin yesterday. said she didn't really put her foot down at all.

so i went in it today. i suppose it cant put all the power down in the wet. it spins in first gear then i get it into second and it feels like the power isn't there. I'm looking for the light on the dash to say the wheels are spinning still but it doesn't come on.

surely it should if the power is there and the wheels are spinning.

the noise isn't a loud but ive never had a petrol turbo before.

only a diesel, and when the hose popped of that there was no acceleration at all.


i hope its just in my head, oh, no warning lights
 
just, if the power is there i should feel it but i cant.

nothing else wrong. i can rev it loads but it just feels underpowered. wierd
 
Technically a turbo is 'gone' if there is excessive play in its bearing (usually due to momentary oil starvation and subsequent excessive heat on its hydro dynamic bearing).

One thing to consider is that diesels need to run quite weak, ie they need more air. This is done with a turbo which will be realavilty higher boost pressure than an equivalent petrol turbo. Petrols on the other hand need to run slightly rich to protect from pre-ignition.
The upshot is that you won't hear as much whoosh in a petrol turbo (unless you drive some bonkers Scooby running massive boost!). Turbo engines are affected (slightly) by ambient temperatures as most have a intercooler so weather does play its part.

You have to remember that the turbo needs some revs to work so changing into 3rd too early , you'll have to wait for the boost to build. It sounds fine to me - sounds like you were used to a very torquey diesel and are missing the extra shove the diesel has.

What was your last car and what's your current car?

(PS - I assume you know its not good to drive a turbo car hard at the start or end of its journey)
 
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it was a older rover 200 sdi, nothing special but the torque was good.

i had a tuning box fitted and a few other mods so it wasn't slow.

I'm comparing my fr with its self really. when i first bought it i loved it. fast as **** and it pinned me back a bit when accelerating. not today though. i hope I'm not getting use to it.

i know not to push it from start up. although i dot know why?
 
never drive a turbo car hard on start up as the oil has not yet reached optimum working temp and has not yet reached and fully lubricated all vital components mainly the turbo bearing. and also driving hard and then just shutting it off is just as bad. always drive the last 5 mins home nice and steady and avoid using much boost if any.
 
It could be something as simple a small boost leak or perhaps a maf sensor.

I'm not sure if rain would make more or less boost???

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From reading the posts is your car a petrol FR?
If it is and older than say 08 plate it's more likely a faulty diverter valve.
The best way to describe this fault is that your foot is often on the floor wanting more power.
If its not a petrol FR ignore this post.


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My 2007 fr diverter valve failed about 20000 miles.
I had no warning lights or anything and sometimes thought it was me getting used to it.
I think in 6th gear at say 60mph it was best to tell as I ended up with the foot to the floor for overtaking etc.
If your keeping hold of the car put a genuine seat rev d valve on they cost approx £45 and won't fail again.
At 2006 if its not failed it will soon

A diverter valve is the valve fitted to the side of the turbo which controls boost. The style on your car will be a diaphragm type and they tear or the spring goes weak causing your boost to leak away.
Only held on with 3 bolts just a little awkward to access as its underneath.
Takes 20 mins to replace

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cheers, is there a sure fire way to tell its the valve that needs replacing?

oh and have you got a link mate.

cheers
 
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The only way to tell without removing it is by using vag com computer to check boost pressure actual vs requested.
Is your car remapped? If so defo will be this.
Don't have a link for removal as I'm on my phone but if you look on the forge website there's instructions on there for fitting a blow off spacer which involves removing the valve.


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no its not been touched. its standard. i'll have to get it checked on vag com then. working all week now so will have to be next week. will most garages have vag com?

as you can tell i'm next to useless with mechanics
 
It's up to you but you may find it'll cost nearly as much to get it diagnosed as it would be to replace the valve.
These engines are pretty good and don't suffer many failures apart from this valve.


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