Progressive Parts, performance parts and tuning specialists

I cant get my engine temp to get up to 90 and it's driving me insane

When you say you have no access to VAGCom,
Do you have an android phone? Or can you buy the £5 cable on ebay?

I only know how to do it via the Torque Application so I use my phone and a bluetooth dongle :)
I'd get the readings from the ECU not the cluster.
 
Vag com shows the cars temp to be normal, I then used it to make sure the needle itself worked by going up then down automatically. I AM OUT OF OPTIONS!! Sensor has been changed 3 times now, thermostat changed AGAIN and fitted with a Seat part and the damn needle still wont budge which now brings on the classic P0172 (overfuelling code due to car running cold all the time). My petrol bill is going nuts because of it too, im only getting a measily 130 miles from 20 litres!! Someone must know what's going on, not even 2 of my mechanics do!! Help me!!
 
Dash needle actually broke, ie registering wrong?

If that is town driving it's about right, fuel is soooo much more now than it as been.
 
Forgive me as I'm new to VW engines so no flaming please.

My BM has two coolant sensors.
One for the gauge and one for the ecu.
Most ecu cts are on the engine itself.
Is there more than one temp sensor on your engine?

Wiring fault maybe?

Sorry if I'm way off base.
 
We have one sensor split into two,


Muttley said:
The ECU takes its temperature readings from a sensor mounted in the pipe junction bit fitted onto the righthand end of the cylinder head (viewed from the front. looking into the engine compartment). The same plug-in unit houses a separate sensor that drives the dashboard gauge. So it is possible for the dash gauge to show faulty readings without any effect on the engine running. The Climate Control unit gets its reading of coolant temperature from the ECU.
Click to expand...
 
Just read ur thread and forgive me for maybe being daft but which sensor is it that u have changed 3 times now, is it the coolant temp sensor at the side of the engine or the one in the coolant tank as this one is a level sensor not a temp sensor. It's just that further up your thread someone asks if you have changed the one in the coolant tank and u replied that u had changed twice but it wouldn't be this one that wants changing it would be the other?

Just a thought?
 
ab1702_123 said:
Just read ur thread and forgive me for maybe being daft but which sensor is it that u have changed 3 times now, is it the coolant temp sensor at the side of the engine or the one in the coolant tank as this one is a level sensor not a temp sensor. It's just that further up your thread someone asks if you have changed the one in the coolant tank and u replied that u had changed twice but it wouldn't be this one that wants changing it would be the other?

Just a thought?
Click to expand...

I was wondering this as well which is why I asked about separate sensors.

I don't get that vagcom says the temp is ok.
If one side is the gauge and that is faulty I would expect the mpg to be ok, just a faulty gauge reading.
If the ecu side is faulty then with a working stat the temp should be ok but the ecu side faulty giving bad mpg.
It sounds like that if both sides are faulty then I'd check the plug first, if ok then change the sensor.

Maybe someone knows the average voltage to be expected on a working sensor to give you an idea of what's going on.
 
Hi

With regard to the smell at idle, it will probably be a split Y shaped breather hose under the pastic cover next to the head. Split may on the underneath of the pipe so you may not see it very easily.

The temp guage problem is widespread, my guage goes up and down like a pair of
whor es drawers. Had it fixed twice, now I cant be bothered. My sons LCR is the same
 
Rhonda said:
Hi

With regard to the smell at idle, it will probably be a split Y shaped breather hose under the pastic cover next to the head. Split may on the underneath of the pipe so you may not see it very easily.

The temp guage problem is widespread, my guage goes up and down like a pair of
whor es drawers. Had it fixed twice, now I cant be bothered. My sons LCR is the same
Click to expand...

mine is doing this and is in for the thermostat doing tomorrow, the only thing i worry about is the over fuelling leading to bore wash, damaged piston rings, tap seals so on and so forth:(
 
Sinbad said:
Have found the following;

Run car from cold, leaving the coolant tank cap off until car gets to temp. if your thermostat works you'll see the coolant level drop, then rise again after a few minutes, that means your thermostat is working. you should notice some coolant flowing from the return line, that means your waterpump is working. massage coolant hoses by hand. the process should take about 15 min. fill it to level, cap it then drive around, check levels again.
Click to expand...

hiya mate i have same temperature gauge problem too after reading your instructions i tried it too and while the lid off the coolant bottle was off the temp went up but when i put the lid back on and drove about the temp started to fall down and stayed down. what do you think is wrong? do you know the cure?
 
The green sensor is the one I've changed 3 times. Not the one in the coolant..

I will check my 'Y shaped hose' for a split regarding the fume smell.

That is the only thing I can think of (the wire from the sensor to the dash), from inspection it seems fine. I will clean it up, smash some WD40 on it and have my fingers crossed.

Thanks for the input guys.
 
Ok guys, another one to the addition, changed the coolant temp sensor (green one) as was showing up on vcds, worked fine for a few days and now my temp wont go past 70ish whilst driving, if in traffic for 30 mins or more it goes up to 90, as soon as im driving it is dropping again.

Now, my assumtions it cant be the needle, or the green sensor. which leaves me with thermostat and the recently discovered airlock options, might aswell check the airlock first. Just not exactly understanding how its done, which hoses do i massage, and when do i do it, while hot/cold/running/cap opened/closed? also how do i check the temp through vcds.

if not that, what symptoms would the open thermostat show?

Thanks in advance.
 
You could try phoning the Phirm they are VAG specialists I think they are based near London they seem very good for advice if you tell them what you have already done, I have phoned them for advice before and they do a tech talk page in PVW
Dan
 
litcan91 said:
Ok guys, another one to the addition, changed the coolant temp sensor (green one) as was showing up on vcds, worked fine for a few days and now my temp wont go past 70ish whilst driving, if in traffic for 30 mins or more it goes up to 90, as soon as im driving it is dropping again.

Now, my assumtions it cant be the needle, or the green sensor. which leaves me with thermostat and the recently discovered airlock options, might aswell check the airlock first. Just not exactly understanding how its done, which hoses do i massage, and when do i do it, while hot/cold/running/cap opened/closed? also how do i check the temp through vcds.

if not that, what symptoms would the open thermostat show?

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

Thermostat

001 is the block for coolant temp.
 
Going to look for Phirm's number online Cupra Dan

Thats what my guess is too LEE69, just wanted to make sure its not the airlock, but changing the thermostat should deal with both problems as the system will have to be drained and refilled right? will check the temp after a long drive, was thinking of doing it through the climate control unit, or just wack the laptop out and do the 001

Thanks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

leon 2.0 tdi 150 loosing coolant & burnt smell from expansion tank
Replies
3
Views
2K
ZK_FR150
DGF264
URGENT PLEASE.. Can i drive my LCR if water pump has/is gone/going??
Replies
47
Views
3K
DGF264
DGF264
Ian's S3 nightmare..
Replies
22
Views
5K
IanTheBiker
Carmats.co.uk
Top Bottom
Back