I cant get my engine temp to get up to 90 and it's driving me insane

[cleverspoon]

If you log your coolant temp from starting the car......taking it for a drive then head home. Plot the results in a graph...you should get a steady curve up to around 92 (as stat opens) then it should hold constant at 90.
If you dont reach 90 it would be stat stuck open....if the graph goes up and down id say stat is slow to react.

 

[Mk1 banana]

Mine has also started as the cold has kicked in, but it is nowhere near enough to keep the temp down that low, as far as i remember we had colder winters and the temp went to 90 on every drive!

Were all most probably sitting on the same problem of the thermostat being stuck in the open position!

And wouldnt drive the car with the coolant tank opened......

I had this problem when I got mine, I changed the cambelt and waterpump as I had no history if it, problem got better but not fixed, I then changed the thermostat and ect sensor and now she sits at about 92-95 constant regardless to weather/ heater being on, only difference is it takes longer to warm up in winter which is pretty acceptable.

When I put my scanner on (not vagcom) it gave me a reading of les than the gauge reading but still neither we're enough)

Water pumps do break, as they have a plastic impeller, I also heard of thermostat housings breaking as they are also plastic, I've never had to change one (only been in the trade for 6 years, but some if the guys where I work have seen it),

I've heard that if its air lock, leaving the pressure cap slightly loose and driving it can release the air, but be VERY careful, if it goes too high it'll boil up/ over heat as it needs to be pressurised really.

My thermostat was less than a tenner from gsf and was the cause of most of my problems...

 

[litcan91]

I had this problem when I got mine, I changed the cambelt and waterpump as I had no history if it, problem got better but not fixed, I then changed the thermostat and ect sensor and now she sits at about 92-95 constant regardless to weather/ heater being on, only difference is it takes longer to warm up in winter which is pretty acceptable.

When I put my scanner on (not vagcom) it gave me a reading of les than the gauge reading but still neither we're enough)

Water pumps do break, as they have a plastic impeller, I also heard of thermostat housings breaking as they are also plastic, I've never had to change one (only been in the trade for 6 years, but some if the guys where I work have seen it),

I've heard that if its air lock, leaving the pressure cap slightly loose and driving it can release the air, but be VERY careful, if it goes too high it'll boil up/ over heat as it needs to be pressurised really.

My thermostat was less than a tenner from gsf and was the cause of most of my problems...

Im going to go forward with a thermostat change, seat have qouted 100 but want to diagnose it first for 50, i dont really want to throw that 50 to find out what i know already, is 100 reasonible? Where else could i get it done not by cowboys

 

[aymen_a22]

How far are you driving? I have noticed with mine that it takes significantly longer to get up to temperature on the gauge if I have the heating on inside the car.

I assume this is because the heater matrix is drawing as much heat away from the engine as possible.

If I turn off the heaters the temperature rises a lot faster. Are you getting warm air through the vents?

 

[litcan91]

100 mile drive half motorway, the rest dual caridge, about 2-3 hours dependant on trafic, temp only reaches 70 whilst driving, and raises in traffic, falling again once i move. Yes the air through the vents is warm, but im sure 60-70degrees is enough to keep the heater warm

 

[LEE69]

Yeah stat

 

[BigJase88]

*delete

 

[seatturbopower]

Im going to go forward with a thermostat change, seat have qouted 100 but want to diagnose it first for 50, i dont really want to throw that 50 to find out what i know already, is 100 reasonible? Where else could i get it done not by cowboys

if its the stat your going to change then http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?p=16925102 its not to bad to do and take my advice and use a grab magnet as well..you will soon find out why..........

 

[Jason-R]

I have exactly the same problem on mine at the moment. As Lee says it is the stat sticking open!

 

[Mk1 banana]

just a quick question are the fans working correctly i.e not stuck on all the time keeping it a little cooler than normal ??? worth a check m8

Im going to go forward with a thermostat change, seat have qouted 100 but want to diagnose it first for 50, i dont really want to throw that 50 to find out what i know already, is 100 reasonible? Where else could i get it done not by cowboys

For a main dealer I guess it's the going rate...
It's not particularly difficult to do, all you need to do really, is take the earth off the battery,
Remove alternator
Undo the bolts holding the thermostat housing together and replace the stat and seal, if you'd rather get it done by a mechanic for peace of mind, then either a one you can trust or a dealer... If say I can do it but I'm in hastings... It would cost te difference in petrol I think mate.

 

[litcan91]

For a main dealer I guess it's the going rate...
It's not particularly difficult to do, all you need to do really, is take the earth off the battery,
Remove alternator
Undo the bolts holding the thermostat housing together and replace the stat and seal, if you'd rather get it done by a mechanic for peace of mind, then either a one you can trust or a dealer... If say I can do it but I'm in hastings... It would cost te difference in petrol I think mate.

Thanks for the advice & offer i daubt id be doing it myself, havent got long enough spanners, hoses for draining etc. Will contact SEAT & see if they would do it without diagnostics. as done all the possible diagnostics already...

 

[seatturbopower]

Thanks for the advice & offer i daubt id be doing it myself, havent got long enough spanners, hoses for draining etc. Will contact SEAT & see if they would do it without diagnostics. as done all the possible diagnostics already...

as the post i entered before there is not many tools you need.if they KNOW its the stat and there going to change that then it will take them about 1hr amx id say there is no need to remove the alternator.dont always trust the diogs,i went to kwick fit and they told me that it was my lamba sensor..............then my mate cheap odb said it can be a water coolant problem?i found the problem myself due to a leak where the water was on the stump.

 

[Mk1 banana]

You're right, you don't have to remove alternator, mine had to come out, as the bolts where done up 'FT' it's easier to see what you're doing with it out the way, but whatever is easiest
You're right though, not a lot of tools needed.
I don't think I'd' be getting kwikfit To diagnose anything for me lol, I've heard bad things but that's ridiculous!

 

[litcan91]

You're right, you don't have to remove alternator, mine had to come out, as the bolts where done up 'FT' it's easier to see what you're doing with it out the way, but whatever is easiest
You're right though, not a lot of tools needed.
I don't think I'd' be getting kwikfit To diagnose anything for me lol, I've heard bad things but that's ridiculous!

Dont even go the kwick fit way, been there for a first service when i got the car, left with 1xenon light broken, engine light & epc on. Thanks, but never i have even thought of going there ever again to even add some air to my tyres, these cowboys have no clue of what theyre doing.

 

[seatturbopower]

You're right, you don't have to remove alternator, mine had to come out, as the bolts where done up 'FT' it's easier to see what you're doing with it out the way, but whatever is easiest
You're right though, not a lot of tools needed.
I don't think I'd' be getting kwikfit To diagnose anything for me lol, I've heard bad things but that's ridiculous!

oh yeh i know i only went there because it was the only place at the time i could go to after onlt having my car for about 2 days....after a phone call to the old owner he told me it can be the sensor...i was unsure bout this taken it to a mate for a lamba co2 test and it was fine,then mate told me he had a odb....the only time the car is off to the garage it for its mot after owning a old renault i know to stay well away

 

[Mk1 banana]

I've never been to kwikfit, and never would, just as well I'm a mechanic, if sorts lol
I know someone who claimed he used to work there and from what he was like and what he said about them- I really (really, really, really) wouldn't trust them with as much as a bulb or tyre pressures!

 

[litcan91]

Little update, had the stat changed by seat and no joy, the same thing is going, they say the big fan isnt kicking in, but i dont see how this could be the issue, as this would be leading to overheating not over cooling.....

I havent checked yet, but will try let the car run up to 90 whilst stationary and see if the big fan kicks in, as a fan definatly kicks in and cools it back down to 70 as i can hear it.

As the temp issue has started hapening just after ive changed my coolant temp sensor, i'm presuming it could just be a dodgy sensor? although its not coming up on vcds scan as it did prior to change....

what do you guys think?

 

[LEE69]

Yeah change the cts
It will take ages for it to get to 90 on tickover

 

[litcan91]

Yeah change the cts
It will take ages for it to get to 90 on tickover

Any trusted source where to buy from the internet? or should i just get one from seat? difference in price is about £10 internet - £30 seat,

it wont get to 90 any other way, il drive around, then park up and leave it ticking over, thats the only way it reaches 90, and i can hear the fan whistle noise kick in, it drops back to 70 and the fan stops.

 

[LEE69]

This is genuine http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Audi-S...SM&fits=Model:Leon&hash=item1e7086d487&_uhb=1

Just seen they are avaialble for £3.50 now lol i use a £10 for years now your choice.