Labour times for extensive TDI mods?

[Leon2012]

Hi,

I'm trying to work out a rough idea of how long it will take to do some mods to a Mk1 Leon TDI, I've done some research and trying to fill in the gaps.

This is important because it helps me estimate the garage time it will take, as I need the car and can't just leave it at a garage for a week, and also to help estimate the cost involved.

Here is a list of the jobs and estimated times, which I'm hoping people can give me some feedback on, and correct them where necessary, also if any jobs cross over and reduce overall time:

- Fit uprated SMF clutch: 3.5 - 4 hours

- Fit uprated SMIC, 1.8T pancake pipe, Allard race pipe and associated hoses: 2-3 hours


- Fit uprated turbo (GTB) & PD150 TIP: 3 - 3.5 hours

- Fit uprated injector nozzles: 1.5 - 2 hours

- Fit 11mm injection pump: 1-2 hours??

- Fit PD lift pump: 1 hour??

- Fit 3-bar MAP sensor - 0.5 hours?

- Fit ARP head studs - 0.5 hours?


- Fit 312mm front brake conversion, inc. hubs, carriers, calipers, discs & pads: 2 hours

- Fit 256mm rear brake conversion, inc. hubs, carriers, calipers, discs, pads, trim splash guards: 2 hours

- Bleed brakes: 0.5 hours


- Fit KW Variant 1 coilovers and perform alignment: 2 - 2.5 hours

- Fit uprated engine mounts: 0.5 hours


- Fit S3 upper and lower strut braces: 1 - 1.5 hours??




- Fit digital boost/EGT gauge (from Allard race pipe) - 1 hour?

- Flash ECU with custom remap/tune supplied on portable FlashZilla device from USA & do 'Hammer Mod'/IQ adjustment: 1 hour?



Cheers

 

[Muttley]

I assume this is a non-PD engine. What benefit to you expect to get out of fitting a lift pump in the tank? Will it even fit through the opening in a non-PD tank?

I can't see engine mounts getting done in half an hour.

Fitting a new injection pump will mean doing the injection timing from scratch. A lot longer than two hours.

 

[Leon2012]

Hi and cheers,

@gac: About the clutch time, I researched it and a guy who had done a few clutches before said if he was really hustling he could do one in 3.5 hours, so I put upto 4 hours. I appreciate the book time might be 4.8 hrs, but I don't think many mechanics would take that long, especially since I've had quotes for £160, £180 and £200, and I don't think those mechanics would take nearly 5 hours to do the job for that money (and they are all top VAG specialists, ok one would take probably double the time, as he likes to take his time, but prices per job).

& yes, all engine work must be done at the same time, otherwise it won't work together.

I could get clutch, brakes and handling done separately, but all engine work together.


@Muttley: a lift pump to help make it smoother power and more fuel at higher revs, and yes they will fit non-PDs.

I thought changing the engine mounts for harder rubber was quite a quick job with a ramp? How long do you think it would take?

About the injection pump, how many hours for that do you think? 4 maybe?


Cheers

 

[Leon2012]

Btw, Muttley, it's not necessary to do a full timing belt change when uprating the injection pump from 10mm to 11mm - this guide shows you how, but I can't see a total time for this job: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/IP-removal-TDI-engine.htm

and there is a simple walkthrough with pics for timing adjustment on VCDs at the end of the guide, so it's not like the garage would have to work anything out, just follow the guide if they are not sure.

 

[Mark JT]

Sound like a load of expense, why not just buy an FR ?
If it is because of the insurance cost how much do you think your insurance company is going to charge for all the mods you will have done to your car ? Don't forget none disclosure will void your policy if you have an accident.

 

[Leon2012]

Hi Mark,

I had considered an FR PD150, but it's the bodykit and less reliable (& economical) engine which put me off.

Driving a car like that would not fit my image, so I got a very good condition 2004 model which is very clean & OEM looking.

Engine-wise, I know it's old technology, but the 110 VE has been proven to be highly reliable (with highest fuel economy), and the ASV engine is the latest version of it, with oil-cooled pistons - it's also highly tunable, upto and above 250 BHP and 400 ft/lbs of torque.

Mine has only done 80K miles and feels fresh, plus is 5-speed instead of 6-speed, which makes the new clutch a lot cheaper, half the price in fact, although I know the 5-speeds are not as strong as the 6-speeds.

 

[Mark JT]

I've heard that said before about the PD engine, but I have one and have owned it from new (well the company had it first but then I bought it when it was 3 years old) and it has done over 108,000 miles and has never missed a beat, the clutch is still the one fitted when it was new as well !! All it has had is regular servicing and routing maintence parts. As for the economy it returns around 40mpg round town and well over 50 mpg on a run and no I don't drive like an old man either. Guess I must have a good one !!!
AS far as the look of it I wanted a cupra r but didn't want the rubbish fuel economy so I got my Fr and turned it in to a cupra r Diesel !! Every thing a cupra r has but a Diesel best of both worlds ;-)

 

[James_R]

Head studs? In replacement of head bolts? Unless the head is removed will take longer than half an hour.

 

[Muttley]

Leon2012 wrote

Btw, Muttley, it's not necessary to do a full timing belt change when uprating the injection pump from 10mm to 11mm - this guide shows you how, but I can't see a total time for this job: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/IP-removal-TDI-engine.htm​

That *is* the full timing belt change process. You may as well change the timing belt while you're there, and the water pump if it hasn't already been done.

 

[Leon2012]

Hi

@Mark: thanks for your comments, I'm glad you've got a good one and that you're happy with it, a Cupra R bodykit is not for me, but cheers anyway.

@MJ: ok thanks, how long do you think for the ARP head studs?

@Muttley: that article is subtitled: "This article shows removal and replacement of the original 10mm injection pump with an 11mm injection pump without doing a full timing belt change.", so I'm not sure what you mean?

 

[Muttley]

The process lines up the TDC marks at No.1 cylinder TDC, takes the tension off the belt, locks the camshaft and even goes through the motions of locking the pump pulley. It then removes the pump, installs the new pump, locks the pulley again using the slot in the pump boss, has you loosen off the cam pulley, tension everything up, then lock the pulleys up again.

Anytime after you've removed the injection pump you can change the cambelt and water pump with no additional steps. The camshaft is locked, the belt tensioner is locked back, and the pump will be set to No.1 TDC after you've installed it.

Several special tools needed too.

Effectively this is a cambelt change with the addition of changing the injector pump. You should add perhaps 30 minutes to the cambelt-change timings.

 

[Brettyboy]

The process lines up the TDC marks at No.1 cylinder TDC, takes the tension off the belt, locks the camshaft and even goes through the motions of locking the pump pulley. It then removes the pump, installs the new pump, locks the pulley again using the slot in the pump boss, has you loosen off the cam pulley, tension everything up, then lock the pulleys up again.

Anytime after you've removed the injection pump you can change the cambelt and water pump with no additional steps. The camshaft is locked, the belt tensioner is locked back, and the pump will be set to No.1 TDC after you've installed it.

Several special tools needed too.

Effectively this is a cambelt change with the addition of changing the injector pump. You should add perhaps 30 minutes to the cambelt-change timings.

Makes sense to change cambelt & water pump at the same time,it mean you save on labour charge in the long run

 

[Leon2012]

@Muttley: thanks for your info.

@Bret: I know what you're saying, but the cambelt and water pump were changed 5000 miles ago anyway.

 

[James_R]

The head bolts will be 5/6 hours book time at a guess.

 

[Leon2012]

Hi and thanks MJ,

No wonder the Americans do most of the work themselves!

I've read a guide on how to do it, and realise now it's a lot more involving changing the head studs - I thought they were bolts easily accessible from the exterior, but clearly not!