Cupra-Paddy

Active Member
Sep 16, 2016
54
0
Wakefield
I have a 1.8t auq turbo back decat with a post cat spacer and I'm getting these error codes:

17522/P1114 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor; B1 S2: Internal Resistance too High
16514/P0130/000304 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1: Malfunction in Circuit
17705/P1297/004759 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
Yes I have looked on Ross tech but can't seem to find a solution

Can someone please help me with this! All vac lines have been changed and are ok
Anyone have any ideas?
 
Faulty lambda sensor?
Also you would appear to have a boost leak, this is a minefield so from experience all I can recommend is getting it smoke tested mate as it's the easiest way to diagnose the issue.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
17522 and 16514 as rosstech says, check the wiring and O2sensors.

The 17705 is most likely a software issue with a remap.
 
Last edited:
No need to change both at once. I'd say most likely the wiring. Check and change them with the battery disconnected as you can fry the ECU if the lambda short circuits
 
I don' think screwing it out will help, thats for if the mixture is showing as lean/rich etc.......yours is a electrical problem by the look of the codes
 
So just disconnect battery and check from Pre lambda sensor connection then what?
Will clean contacts with electrical contact cleaner
 
Yeah you still need the front sensor, it controls the fueling. If you have 2 new sensors then there must be a fault with the wiring. It's possible that when the ecu got fried it also fried the wiring somehow. You'll have to take it to a main dealer or auto electrician as they're the only ones that will have the equipment to test it
 
Last edited:
Yeah that's what I was thinking,
Been told I can get it mapped out but I'm still waiting on my mate to fit fmic the get it mapped just all cost ain't it bud lol cost me just over £200 already for 2 lambda sensors and ecu :cry:
 
Hi again mate. You can get the 2nd sensor mapped out, but you need the pre cat one for the fueling. Have you checked the main cable where it plugs into the ecu? I guess it's possible that maybe it has burnt/blackened a contact when the ECU shorted? Probably a long shot but may be worth a look. Usually the lambda sensors only use around 1volt, so any corrosion on the contacts will cause the signal to be way off of what the ecu expects.
 
Last edited:
Will I best best removing ecu again? What's best way to tell?
Fitted yesterday and light came on, been fine today so far will keep you posted tho
 
You can check just by unplugging the connector that plugs into the ECU (with the battery disconnected) and looking at the contacts inside the plug to see if one looks burnt or discoloured compared to the others.

If it does then you can try cleaning it using IPA (availible from maplins and similar) sprayed on a cotton bud. Allow to dry completely before plugging back in.

If you don't have any luck with that then like i said it needs too go to a main dealer really. They have a special test kit that plugs into the wiring loom in place of your ECU, and then checks for the right signals from the lambdas. That's the only way to really check unless you're really good with a multimeter and you can find the right pin-outs from the internet somewhere.

Edit: if so then you can check the resistance and continuity on the wires between the lambdas and the plug that plugs into the ECU.
 
Last edited:
Thinking about it my board should be fine as it got swapped over as I fried my original one so I got the immo chip taken off and put into another board,